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QUINBY'S 

New Bee-Keeping. 

The Mysteries of Bee-Keeping Explained, 



COMBINING THE RESULTS OF FIFTY YEARS' EXPERIENCE, WITH THE 

LATEST DISCOVERIES AND INVENTIONS, AND PRESENTING THE MOST 

APPROVED METHODS, FORMING 



A COMPLETE GUIDE TO 

SUCCESSFUL BEE-CULTURE. 

L. 0. ROOT, 

PBACTICAL APIARIAN. 

NEW AND REVISED EDITION. 

ILLUSTRATED. 




NEW YORK: 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

1919 



Art 



Wintered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by tte 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

In the Office of the Lioi^'aci of Congress, at Washington. 






Printed in U, S. A- 



CONTENTS 



PREFACE IX-XI 

MEMORIAL OF M. QUINBY XLH 

INTRODUCTION 17 

Bee-Keeping ; The Old and the New 17 

CHAPTER I.— The Hone* -Bee. 

Simple Facts in Its Natural History— The Queen— Workers— Drones- 
Construction of Comb— Gathering and Storing Pollen— Gathering 
and Storing Honey— Propolis and Its Use— Brood Rearing When 
it Begins— Form of the Brood-nest— Process of Egg-laying— Prep- 
arations for Swarming— Facts and Theories Concerning Generation 
—Ferule Workers 23-39 

CHAPTER II.— Italian Bees. 

Italian or Ligurian Bees— First Introduced into America— Characteristics 
—How to Procure Italians -Color not an Absolute Test of Purity- 
Other Varieties 39-43 

CHAPTER III.— Sources of Honet. 

Sources of Pollen— Early Honey Plants— Singular Fatality Attendant on 
Silk-weed — Basswood — Later Honey Plants— Buckwheat— Honey 
Dew— Do Bees Injure Grain and Fruit ?— Injury to Ripe Fruit— How 
far will Bees go for Honey ?— Best Season for Honey 48-66 

CHAPTER IV.— The Apiary. 

Preliminary Study— Location— Immediate Surroundings— Bee-Keeping 
in Cities and Villages— Arrangement of the Hives— Distance Between 
Hives— Hives should Set Level— Disadvantages of High Stands — 
Marking the Location— Moving Bees Short Distances— Shade— Bee 
Houses— House Apiary— When to Purchase Bees— Where to Buy — 
Transportation Beneficial— How to Select Swarms— Expense of Bees 
and Fixtures— Transporting Bees— Taking Bees on Shares— Financial 
Results— Overstocking 66-87 

CHAPTER V.— Controlling Bees. 

Their Disposition— Smoke a Controlling Agent— Modes of Using De- 
cayed Wood— Quinby Smoker— Means of Protection— Suitable Dress 
for Women— Interest Dispels Fear— Remedies for Stings 87-94 

5 



VI CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VI.— Hives and Boxes. 



Movable Comb Hive— Construction and Advantages— Intelligent Manipu- 
lation Necessary— Hanging Frame or Langstroth Hive— Frames- 
Division Board — Siue-boxing Hives — Observatory Hive — New 
Quinby Hive— Standing Frame— Panels or Side-boards— Small 
Bottom-board for Quinby Frames— Outer Case not Always Essential 
—Complete New Quinby Hive— Position of the Frames -Stands for 
Hives— Alighting Boards— Roofs— Painting Hives— Accuracy Essen 
tial — Honey Boxes- Section Frames Objectionable— Two-comb 
Boxes— Block for Setting up Boxes— Single-comb, or Section Boxes 
—Construction of Section Box— Guide Combs— Separators— The 
Clamp 95-125 

CHAPTER VII.— Transferring. 

Advantages— Time to Transfer— Preliminaries— Process 185-129 

CHAPTER VIII.— Queens. 

Importance of Selecting Good Stock— Fertilization in Confinement— 
Bearing Queens: When to Rear— How to Rear Queens— Another 
Method— Forming Nuclei— Queen Nursery— Queen Cages— Introduc- 
ing Queens— Clipping Queens 1 Wings— Process— How to Handle a 
Queen— Age of Queens— Drone-Laying Queens— Loss of Queens — 
Indications of Loss— More than one Queen in a Hive 129-152 

CHAPTER IX.- Natural and Artificial Increase. 

Natural Increase— When Swarming Commences— Indications of Swarm- 
ing—Preparations—Which Bees Compose the Swarm— Immediate In- 
dications of a Swarm— How to Hive them— Emergencies— Separating 
Swarms— Swarms Returning to the Old Hive— After-Swarms— Pre- 
venting After-sw3rms— Artificial Increase— Straight Combs— Controll- 
ing Swarming -Non-Swarming Hives— Methods — Depriving of a 
Queen— Suggestions— Hints for Exceptional Seasons 152-172 

CHAPTER X.— Boxing and Surplus Honey. 

Putting on Boxes— Removing Boxes— Care of Box Honey— Presence of 

Larvae— Suggestions for Securing Choice Specimens of Honey 172-179 

CHAPTER XL— The Honet Extractor and its Use. 

ItB Value— Description— Desirable Features— The Use of the Honey Ex- 
tractor- -When to Extract— Arranging Hives for Extracting— How to 
Extract— Curing Extracted Honey— Honey Knife— Securing Extra 
Combs of Honey— Securing Guide Combs— Relative Amount of Box 
and Extracted Honey 180-190 

CHAPTER XII.— Wax and Comb. 

Wax— Honey-Comb— Size of Cells— Hexagonal Shape not Essential- 
Cost of Comb— Artificial Comb— Supplying Material for Comb— 
Comb-Fonndation— Sheeting Wax— Wire in Foundation — Advan- 
tages of Wire— Heavy Foundation Preferable— Uses and Value of 

J' Foundation— Foundation in Surplus Boxes— To fasten-Foundation in ■■": 
Frames— Expense of Foundation Machines— Rendering Wax. ....... 190-203 



CONTENTS. VII 

CHAPTER XIII— Feeding. 

Its Necessity— What to Feed— Preparing Food— Feeders-Honey in 
Combs for Spring Feeding— Feeding to Secure Surplus in Better 
Form— Honey Should be Warm when Fed 204-211 

CHAPTER XIV. -Robbing. 
General Remarks— Indications— Remedies 212-216 

CHAPTER XV.— Diseases and Enemies op Bees. 
Dysentery Foul Brood— Indications of Foul Brood— Remedy— Due to a 
Fungoid Growth— Remedy— Parasites— Bee Moth —Where their Eggs 
are Deposited— Development of the Larvae— Destroyed by Severe Cold 
— Remedies— Moth-Proof Hives— Rats and Mice— Birds— Ants, Toads 
and Spiders 216-231 

CHAPTER XVI.— Marketing Honey. 

Subject of Importance— Neatness— Objection to Large Cases— Two-story 
Cases— Small Cases Popular— Preparing Boxes for Market— Grading 
Honey— Packing Honey— Marking Cases— Reliable Dealers— Material 
for Cases— Manufacturing Cases— Transportation— Preparing Ex- 
tracted for Market— Process of Liquefaction— Kind of Package 232-240 

CHAPTER XVII.— Wintering. 

Preparing Bees for Winter— Perfect Quiet Essential— Out-of -Door Win- 
tering— In -Door Wintering— Artificial Heat— Dryness— Best Arrange- 
ment of a Cellar— A Special Building for Wintering— Clamps- When 
to Place Bees in Winter Quarters— Flight during Winter— Setting 
out Bees too Early in Spring— Healthy Excrement always Dry 241-255 

CHAPTER XVIII.— Honet. 

Uses as Food and Medicine— Adulteration of Syrups— Different Qualities 

of Honey— Extracted Honey— Adulteration of Honey 255-260 

CHAPTER XIX.— Notes for the Seasons. 
Spring— Summer— Autumn— Winter 260-263 

CHAPTER XX. 
Conclusion 263-264 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Queen.. 24 

Groups of Bees 25 

Worker 25 

Sting of Worker 26 

Drone 27 

Eggs and Larvae 32 

Ovaries of the Queen 36 

White Clover 50 

Alsike Clover 51 

Motherwort 52 

Silkweed 53 

Basswood or Linden 55 

Fuller's Teasel 57 

Wild Teasel 57 

Smooth Sumach 58 

Golden Rod 61 

Hives upon Roofs at Ilion, N. Y 69 

View of Author's Apiary 71 

House Apiary of J. H. Nellis, Cana- 

joharie, N. Y... 78 

The Quinby Smoker 91 

The Qui n by Smoker, Improved 91 

The Bee Veil 92 

Iron for Holding Frames 98 

Hanging-Frame Hive and Cap 99 

Hanging-Frame 100 

Division Board 101 

Observatory Hive 102 

New Quinby Hive, with Frames and 

Boxes 103 

Standing Frame 105 

Hook on the End of Standing 

Frame 106 

Form for Building Frames 106 

Panel for Side of Frames 107 

Panel, Improved 107 

Small Bottom-board for Quinby 

Hive 108 

Quinby Frames and Boxes in 

Clamps 109 

Large Bottom-board, with Frame.. 110 

The Quinby Hive Clasp Ill 

The Quinby Hive with Roof 112 

Roof for Hives ....113 

Tin for Corner Posts of Boxes 117 

Two-Comb Box, b Honey-Board.... 118 

Block for Setting up Boxes. 119 

Standard for Tops of Boxes 119 

Tin Point for Holding Glass .121 

Section Boxes 121 

Form for Making Section Boxes. . .121 

Separator 122 

Improved Separator 123 

An Empty Clamp 123 

Clamp Filled With Boxes 124 

Frame Containing Six Boxes 124 

Frame Containing Three Boxos 124 

Transferring Board ... 126 

Transferring Sticks 126 

8 



Transferred Combs . . , 128 

NuclcusBox 133 

Comb with Brood for Queen Rais- 
ing.... 134 

Comb with Brood Inserted in Comb.134 

Queen Cells Built upon Comb 135 

Queen Nursery 136 

Queen-Cell Box 141 

Queen Cages 143 

Queen with Clipped Wing.... 147 

Brood of Drone-laying Queen in 
Worker Cells 150 

§ueen Cells over Drone Brood 150 
luster of Queen Cells and a Queen 

Cell cut from Comb . 156 

Everett 's Honey Extractor 180 

The Excelsior Honey Extractor. ... 181 

A Two-story Hive 184 

VanDeusen's Clasp ..184 

Straight Honey Knife 188 

Curve-pointed Honey Knife 188 

Bingham & Hetherington's Honey 

Knife 188 

Abdomen of Bee with Scales of 

Wax 190 

Machine for Making Metallic Comb.193 
Manner of Setting up Metallic 

Combs 194 

Distorted Cells in Foundation 197 

Comb Foundation with Wires 197 

Machine for Making Worker-Comb 

Foundation 198 

Swiss Wax Extractor 202 

The Author's Wax Extractor 203 

Feeder for Quinby Hive on Panel. .206 

Van Deusen's Feeder 208 

Method of Filling Combs for Feed- 
ing 209 

The Honey Bug 222 

Trichodes Apiarius 222 

Seed-glass for Examining Parasites.222 
"American Agriculturist" Simple 

Microscope 223 

The Bee-moth in Different Posi- 
tions ...224 

Gallery of the Bee-moth Worm in 

Comb 225 

The Worm Gallery Removed 226 

Larva of Bee-moth 226 

Cocoons of Bee-moth 227 

The Bee-killer 229 

Three Sizes of Honey Boxes 234 

Eight Five-pound Cases Recased. . . 234 
Twelve Cans of Extracted Honey in 

Case 240 

Muth's Honey Bottles 241 

Frames of Quinby Hive Prepared 

for Winier 244 

Thermometer 255 

Double Clump for Wintering Bees.. 259 



PUBLISHERS' PREFACE. 



After the death of Mr. Quinby, the preparation of a 
new and revised edition of his work, which he had in 
contemplation, fell into the hands of Mr. L. C. Root, his 
relative and long-time business associate. This secured 
the incorporation of Mr. Quinby's latest views and meth- 
ods, and the introduction of important improvements 
that had then just been tested, especially that of comb- 
foundation, and the treatise thus embodied the experience 
of two skilled apiarians. The work was so largely re- 
written by Mr. Root, that he might in justice have 
claimed to be its author, but with rare modest}", and in 
a spirit of reverence to the memory of one who had de- 
voted his life to the advancement and popularizing of 
bee-culture, he preferred to retain the title of " Quinby's 
New Bee-keeping." In the present edition the work has 
been revised throughout, numerous pages and parts of 
pages have been cancelled and replaced by new ones ; 
new engravings have been prepared, and the matter 
everywhere brought up to the present date. This has 
been done so thoroughly, as to make the present edition, 
what each previous one has been, the standard guide to 
bee-culture, presenting all tested improvements, and the 
latest views, both of the author and other workers in the 
same field of industry. The work is offered to the ex- 
perienced bee-keeper as a reliable volume of reference, 
and to the novice as a guide in commencing the occupa- 
tion of keeping bees. Annually vast quantities of honey 
literally " waste their sweetness on the desert air," for 
the lack of bees to secure and preserve it in a form in 
which it may be consumed or converted into money. It 
is hoped that this work, in its improved form, may aid 
many dwellers in rural districts to increase their luxuries 
and their incomes. 



PKEFACE TO EEVISED EDITION. 



In presenting this revised edition of " New Bee-keep- 
ing, " I have but one object in view, namely, the desire to 
place Bee-keeping as a substantial branch of agriculture 
on a higher and broader basis. 

There seems to be a wide-spread conviction that there 
ls nothing new to be learned in Bee-keeping, and the num- 
ber of bees yet kept in box-hives throughout the country 
is ample proof that there is yet a great work to be accom- 
plished. I am of the opinion that even the majority of 
progressive bee-keepers fail to comprehend the ultimate 
possibilities of our pursuit. I have endeavored to bring 
this work fully up to the time, and to this end have de- 
scribed and illustrated all of the latest appliances and 
methods, which from actual experience have proved of 
value. 

The price to be paid for progress in this, as in all other 
callings, is continuous labor and application, and what- 
ever value this work may possess, lies in the fact that it 
gives the reader the benefit of the most extended practi- 
cal experience of any work ever published upon the 
subject. 

L. 0. Root. 



PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION. 

It is well known to those familiar with the previous 
editions of this work, that Mr. Quinby wrote and offered 
it to the public, with a hope of awakening a clearer con- 
ception of the immense quantities of honey annually pro- 
duced by the bloom of field and forest, and of utilizing 
these hitherto undeveloped resources, by encouraging a 
more general adoption of bee-keeping as a pursuit. 

The figures which he gave at that time, seemed incredi- 
ble to the uninformed, yet he lived to see his own expec- 
tations more than realized, in the rapid progress that has 
since been made. 

During the latter years of his life, he was particularly 
anxious to embody his ripest experience, and most impor- 
tant discoveries, in a new and thorough revision of his 
book ; and had his life been prolonged a few years, this 
work would have been done by his own hands. 

Encouraged by the publishers, and inspired by the 
wish to fulfill his desire to keep step with the progress of 
his beloved pursuit, I have endeavored to prepare this 
revision, and compile the results of his experience ; and 
thus, so far as lies within my power, carry out his idea 
of still farther elevating bee-keeping to the honorable po- 
sition it deserves, as a scientific calling. 

1 have thought it desirable to retain, as far as possible, 
Mr. Quinby's original language upon points which he 
developed with much clearness, and in which but little, 
if any, advance has since been made. This is but just to 
him, when we remember how indefatigable and painstak- 
ing he was, in his efforts to arrive at the exact truth, 
when he was not only unaided by any of our modern fa- 
cilities for investigation, but rather, was impeded by all 
the obstacles which popular ignorance and current preju- 
dice could present. 

I have been unable to reproduce literally much of his 
later writings on topics of recent development, as they 

XI 



XII PREFACE. 

mostly appeared in periodicals, and needed condensation ; 
yet, much of the matter presented is really but the re- 
sult of his observations, expressed in my own language. 

Very many views have been advanced as worthy of con- 
sideration and adoption, which might have been corrobo- 
rated and strengthened, by quoting the sanction and pra6- 
tice of many reliable bee-keepers ; but in many instances, 
I have omitted to do this for lack of space, trusting that 
all will believe that nothing has been recommended, that 
has not been put to a practical test. 

I must express my indebtedness to many of our lead- 
ing writers and practical apiarians, for many ideas and 
suggestions that have been of much value to me, and 
which, true benevolence dictates, should be disseminated 
for the good of all. And I am also under no small obli- 
gation to the enterprising " bee-men " of foreign coun- 
tries, both of the past and present ; and although be- 
longing to far distant countries and nationalities, every 
true bee-keeper must feel that their love for the study of 
the Honey-Bee, is a bond of sympathy which makes us 
all brethren. 

While I have thus been greatly aided in many ways, 
my confidence in an ability to accomplish Mr. Quinby's 
intentions, has been chiefly derived from the circum- 
stances of my intimate association with him during the 
latter part of his life, when a half century of assiduous 
toil and study had well fitted him to become a teacher in 
his special vocation. 

Combined with this, I have had an active personal ex- 
perience of ten years in bee-keeping (making it my ex- 
clusive business) ; and thus, I hope to sustain the orig- 
inal reputation of this work, for " simplicity and relia- 
bility " and at the same time, to make it, what the 
author designed it to be, a comprehensive and practice 1 
treatise on Advanced Bee Culture. 
L. C. Root, 



MEMORIAL OF M. QTTINBY. 
By Capt. J. E. Hetherington, Cherry Valley, N. Y. 

I approach the task before me with mingled feelings 
of love, admiration, and duty ; love for the man, cemented 
by intimate friendly relations with him for more than 
twenty years. I went to him when a mere lad for in- 
struction in bee-culture, and he so beautifully unveiled 
the wonderful mysteries of the natural history and prac- 
tical management of the honey-bee, that I left him that 
day, impressed as I had never been before. As I after- 
wards learned to know him, I found that his kind, 
considerate manner, and evident pleasure in imparting 
instruction, were but the manifestation of qualities of 
heart and purpose, strongly marked in his character. 
My admiration for his sterling, manly attributes, and 
eminently useful life, inspire me to attempt, in a small 
measure, to discharge a duty resting on me, in common 
with every bee-keeper in the land ; that of putting in 
some enduring form, a tribute to his unselfish life-work 
in promoting the science of bee-culture. 

His writings have made their impress on bee-liternture, 
and his name is familiar in every home where honey 
bees are kept for pleasure or profit. Thousands are 
to-day enjoying a delicious and wholesome article of 
food that would have remained ungathered, except for 
his earnest advocacy of the business as a source of revenue 
to the nation, and profit to the bee-keeper. He was ever 
unselfishly urging people to adopt this calling, that the 
millions of pounds of honey annually going to waste, 
might be garnered for the use of mankind ; and he devoted 
XIII 



XIV MEMORIAL OF M. QUItfBY. 

the best of his life to imparting instruction that would 
lead to this end. Thus, through his writings, and 
through his life-work for the benefit of mankind, he 
built to himself a monument more enduring than brass ; 
and to complete the memorial, it is the wish of all who 
knew him to have inscribed on its tablet, that which 
will testify to his broad, christian character, as well as 
to such qualities of heart as are best revealed in home 
life to kindred and friends. 

I was asked to write of Mr. Quinby because I knew 
him ; none could know him but to love him. We, who 
were accustomed to gather at his fireside, can never for- 
get his warm hospitality. He was of a happy, even 
temperament, always ready with a hearty welcome for 
his friends, and a kind word for every one ; ever willing 
to spread the broad mantle of charity over the short- 
comings of his fellows, yet equally prompt with quick 
censure for a wrong that could be righted. 

True to his Quaker education, he was an intense hater 
of shams, especially of the human kind. He was honest, 
a characteristic that is getting to be as rare as it is valu- 
able. There is no principle in business better established 
than that "Honesty is the best policy." Mr. Quinby, 
unlike many men, was honest from principle. His life- 
work was to elevate bee-keeping to the dignity of a pur- 
suit among men, and he accomplished his mission. 

Bee-keeping as a specialty will date from his time, and 
if Huber has earned the title of " Prince of Apiarists," 
certainly Mr. Quinby is entitled to that of " Father of 
Practical Bee-Culture. " 

In apiarian history there are four names that will stand 
out prominently beyond all others ; Huber, the blind 
apiarian, who, by his untiring perseverance, discovered 
moie of the interior workings of the bee-hive than any 
other man that ever lived ; Dzierzon, the Quinby of 
Germany, who confirmed the hitherto unbelieved state- 



MEMORIAL OF M. QUIKBY. XV 

ments of Huber, and added that equally surprising one 
of partheno-genesis ; Langstroth, our own countryman, 
inventor of the movable comb-hive (the most im- 
portant invention ever made in bee-culture), and author 
of a work, that for scientific accuracy and beauty of 
expression is unsurpassed; and last, but not least, our 
own Quinby, who, adding largely to the knowledge of his 
predecessors, combined the whole into a system of prac- 
tical management, unequalled in simplicity and feasi- 
bility ; and, finally, as a crowning act of a lifetime 
spent in the service of others, gave to the world his 
celebrated discovery that the liquid part of honey is, 
under favorable conditions, entirely evaporated within 
the body of the bee ; a discovery second to none ever 
made in the history of the insect. 

He was not only author of our most practical work on 
bee-keeping, but inventor of an almost perfect movable- 
frame hive, and the originator of numerous other useful 
devices. I predict that his invention of a smoker, combin- 
ing the principle of an upright tube and bellows, will, in 
the near future, be in the hands of every bee-keeper in 
the land. 

It has often been asked, "Why did not Mr. Quinby 
accumulate a fortune in keeping bees ? " 

To this question, I think this answer may be given : 
It is true that Mr. Quinby never became wealthy in a 
pecuniary point of view, but this was not because 
he was unable to make bee-keeping a lucrative pur- 
suit. He did reap handsome profits in his busi- 
ness, but was continually distributing his gains in the 
search for more knowledge, and means for imparting it 
to others. His views of a true fortune did not permit 
him to enjoy the mere possession of money. With him, 
knowledge was better fortune than gold ; and in another 
light, he considered the ability to do something for the 
benefit of mankind, a perpetual reward — treasures laid 



XVI MEMORIAL OF M. QUINBY. 

up in heaven. Whenever he obtained any new idea that 
would benefit others as well as himself, it was forthwith 
given to all who would receive. 

His life was, in every sense, a life of usefulness, and not 
wholly devoted to the interests of bee-culture, for he 
took a living interest in anything that he thought would 
benefit society ; as an advocate and helper in the tem- 
perance work he did no mean service. 

He possessed true kindness of heart, and believed it to 
be a religious duty to make all with whom he came in con- 
tact better and happier, and he regarded that life a failure 
that did not leave the world the better for having been 
lived. The following little incident tells its own story : 
On the day of his funeral, some bare-footed boys had fol- 
lowed down the street to the front of the house, where 
one of them turned up a sorrowful-looking face, and re- 
marked to the officiating clergyman : "I am sorry Mr. 
Quinby is dead ;" on being asked why, he replied, "He 
gave us apples, and pears, and sometimes grapes.". They 
then asked if they might see him. 

Generally, sickness, as a warning for preparation, pre- 
cedes dissolution, but in the case of our friend, at the 
small hours of night, when reposing in quiet slumber, 
the message came. His wife noticed an unusual breath- 
ing — she immediately called the family, but before they 
reached the bed, he had answered the summons. A noble 
spirit had fled back to its Maker, a loving family circle 
was broken, and the earthly life of the Pioneer Bee-keeper 
closed. 

Thus, at the age Of sixty-five, ended the life-work of 
our counsellor, friend, and public benefactor. How fit- 
ting that a life so pure should have so peaceful an end- 
ing. He passed from earth— 

11 Like one who wraps the drapery of his couch 
About him, and lies down to pleasant dreams." 



.xxi'EODUCTIOi,. 

JEE-KEEP1NG : THE OLD AND THE NEW. 

Fifty years ago, Mr. Quinby, then a lad of nineteen, 
procured his first hive of bees, and began bee-keeping. 
He was wholly unacquainted with their management, save 
with the simplest directions for hiving swarms, and the 
use of brimstone for securing the honey, when desired. 

A practical, instructive treatise on bee-culture was not 
to be found, and a periodical devoted to the subject was 
as yet unthought of. The prevailing ignorance of the 
simplest facts in their natural history, with the conse- 
quent inability to rationally explain the causes of pros- 
perity or failure, was the foundation of a wide-spread be- 
lief that " luck" was the presiding genius of the bee-hive. 

Signs and superstitions of all kinds were current in the 
lack of more intelligent teachings, and the good old man 
who warned Mr. Quinby against his habits of study and 
examination into everything in and about a bee-hive, but 
reflected popular opinion, when he said : " Your bees will 
never do anything if you potter with them so much." 

In those days, the only hives were sections of hollow 
logs, boxes of various dimensions, and curious cones built 
of straw, which certainly attested to the ingenuity, if not 
to the progress of the age. If honey was wanted, recourse 
was had to the brimstone pit, and the unhappy bees were 
doomed to yieid up not only their diligently gathered 
treasures, but their lives also; a sacrifice to ignorance, 
not witnoufc parellel in the history of the human race. 

By and by, gleams of better methods began to dawn, 
and the most enterprising saw glimmers of a more ra- 
tional system of treatment, which should secure the pro- 
ducts without the destruction ol the producers. 
17 



18 BEE-KEEPING : THE OLD AND THE NEW. 

Rough, uncouth, wooden boxes were constructed and 
placed upon the hive, and the bees had access to them 
through holes bored in the top. These were succeeded by 
others more neatly made, with a hole in each end, covered 
with glass that the progress within might be inspected. 

Thus, the first steps in the right direction being taken 5 
it was easy to devise boxes with glass eides ; and twenty 
five years ago, we find Mr. Quinby recommending boxes 
six inches square, with glass on all four sides, with the 
remark that, " the expense of making is a little more for 
the same amount of honey, yet, when it is marketed, a few 
customers will prefer this size." Up to that date, the 
chief advance in practice, seems to have been in the better 
adaptation of the box-hive to the production of surplus. 

Mr. Quinby's desire to understand the minutest details 
of everything which came under his observation, led him 
to become thoroughly familiar with the habits of his little 
favorites ; and, unaided by the discoveries of foreign 
writers with which he was then wholly unacquainted, he 
demonstrated for himself many of the facts and princi- 
ples which the progress of to-day easily enables us to verify. 

At the end of a quarter of a century, he had so satisfac- 
torily established a system of bee-keeping that would in- 
sure reasonable return for a stated investment, that he felt 
warranted in publishing the first edition of this work en- 
titled " Mysteries of Bee-keeping Explained." He hoped 
thereby to benefit others by disse n mating the knowledge 
he had acquired, and to encourage an industry, evidently 
designed by the Creator, when he caused uncounted flow- 
ers to annually secrete tons of liquid honey, and created 
a tiny insect with instinct to gather and preserve this 
" treasure- trove." 

Simultaneously with this publication, appeared the first 
edition of "Langstroth on the Hive and Honey Bee." 
These two works were the first of any great value that 
had been written in America. 



BEE-KEEPING :. THE OLD A^d THE HEW. 19 

Their coincident appearance was always a great grati- 
fication to Mr. Quinby, as it afforded no opportunity for 
either to accuse the other o± profiting by his investiga- 
tions ; and gave to both the honor of much original dis- 
covery. * 

These books were subsequently revised, Mr. Lang- 
stroth's in 1859, and Mr. Quinby's in 1865. About this 
time, the "Bee-keeper's Directory" by J. S. Harbison, 
appeared. Mr. Harbison was the pioneer bee-keeper of 
California, and has done much to develop bee-culture in 
that 'State. 

Mr. Langstroth's book marked an era in bee-culture ; 
the invention of movable combs, therein elucidated, open- 
ing a field which all enterprising apiarians feel to be almost 
unlimited. A more accurate knowledge of the functions, 
and habits of the bee, improved methods of obtaining sur- 
plus, control of the interior economy of the hive, and 
many other advantages were derived from this invention. 

From this period, progress began to be more rapid, 
and with each progressive step the facilities for improve- 
ment were proportionally increased. The next great 
discovery, that liquid honey might be removed from the 
combs without injuring them, gave to bee-keeping a still 
greater impetus. 

The last ten years have given us Mr. Quinby's discov- 
ery concerning the dry fasces of the bee, and his invention 
of the Bellows Smoker. 

The latest feature that has marked our progress, is the 
production of comb-foundation in a practical form. 

Let us notice for a moment what these changes have 
done for us in point of production alone. 



♦As an expression of Mr. Langstroth's appreciation of Mr. Quinby's work, I 
give the following, from his writings; "I shall here quote from one of the 
most common-sense works on practical bee-keeping, which has ever been written 
in our language. * * * I refer to the 'Mysteries,' etc., by Mr. Quinby. 
This treatise bears marks, on almost every page, of being the work of an accurate 
experienced, and thoroughly honest observer," 



20 BEE-KEEPING : THE OLD AND THE NEW. 

I find in an article written by Mr. Quinby, in 1848, 
for the " Dollar Newspaper," published in Philadelphia, 
that he takes decided exception to a statement made by 
another writer, to the effect that he had known 25 lbs. of 
honey to be gathered by one colony in two weeks. 

Mr. Quinby lived to see 57 1 /, lbs. of extracted honey 
taken from one colony in two days, and 586 lbs. from a 
stock during the season. He also records a gain of 225 
lbs. of box-honey from one colony. 

That these results are exceptional, is, of course, ad- 
mitted, but that they have been reached, indicates the 
possibilities to which we may yet attain. 

A short time before his death, Mr. Quinby remarked 
that the past five years had shown more progress than the 
forty years preceding, and he predicted that the five years 
to come would record even greater advancement. Who 
shall say that in this he was not correct ? 

Contemporaneously with these practical achievements, 
Americans have established a bee-literature which has 
been a potent agent in disseminating information, and 
in greatly increasing the number of those engaged in the 
pursuit. 

It would be interesting to be able to furnish correct 
statistics of bee-culture in the United States. The lists 
of names in the possession of those who deal largely in 
bee-keeping supplies, prove that the bee-keepers in this 
country must be counted by thousands, and the large 
sales of popular works on the subject are evidence of a 
constantly growing interest. 

The oldest " Bee Journal " in this country was founded 
in 1861, by Samuel Wagner. 

Aside from his ability as a scholarly and practical 
editor, Mr. Wagner has done apiarians great service 
through his acquaintance with the best German bee- 
masters, and his frequent translations from their writings, 
thus forming a link between the scientists of that country 



BEE-KEEPING : THE OLD AND THE NEW. 21 

and the progressive minds of onr own. Mr. Quinby 
much admired Mr. Wagner, and was wont to speak of his 
services in this direction with marked appreciation. This 
"American Bee Journal" is now published by Thos. G. 
Newman, Chicago, Ills., and is the only weekly devoted 
to this pursuit in this country. It is sustained by an able 
corps of contributors. 

" Gleanings in Bee-Culture," published by A. I. Eoot, 
Medina, Ohio, is a semi-monthly periodical, well worthy 
of the patronage of every enterprising bee-keeper. 

" The Bee-keeper's Magazine " is an outcome of " The 
Bee-keeper's Journal and National Agriculturist," for- 
merly published by H. A. King & Co., and sustains its 
position creditably among the bee-keepers of the country. 
It is published by King & Aspinwall, New York City. 

"The Bee-keeper's Guide" is published monthly at 
Kendall ville, Ind. , by A. G. Hill. It improves each year. 

" Kansas Bee-keeper," Scovell & Pond, Columbus, 
Kansas. This has improved greatly since its first appear- 
ance, and now having Mr. Pond as associate editor, it 
will lose nothing in value or reputation. 

We have long felt the need of a bee journal edited by 
a practical bee-keeper who would, in the broadest sense, 
publish it in the interest of scientific and practical 
apiculture ; one that was in no way connected with a 
supply trade, and consequently free to speak of every- 
thing used by bee-keepers as the merits demand. 

We have had no such journal until the appearance of 
the "American Apiculturist " in May, 1883, edited and 
published by S. M. Locke, Salem, Mass. This has more 
than met the expectations of its friends, and is improving 
with every number. In many of its features it suits me 
better than any other journal published in the English 
language. This continued growth will enable it to become 
instrumental in elevating this branch of agriculture to a 
much higher plane than it has ever before occupied. 



22 BEE-KEEPINQ . 1HE OLD AND THE HETV. 

Of modern books we have yet " Langstroth on the 
Honey Bee," a work which will never be out of date to 
those who delight to read of the honey-bee as a Christian 
gentleman and scholar has delighted to write. 

Aside from its practical value, which twenty years have 
failed to greatly depreciate, its perusal will impress all 
with a more elevated sense of the wisdom which gave 
this tiny insect a place in the system of creation. 

A recent contribution is the " Manual of the Apiary," 
by Prof. A. J. Cook, of the State Agricultural College, 
Lansing, Mich. Prof. Cook is an entomologist, and has 
opened a field in bee-culture, hitherto comparatively un- 
explored, in his clear and simple elucidations of the nat- 
ural history of the honey-bee. 

The "New Bee-keeper's Text Book," by A. J. King, 
is a revision of the old edition, written by N. H. and H. 
A. King. It is small, compact, and valuable. 

"Bee-keeper's Handy Book," by H. Alley, Wenham, 
Mass. This was published in 1883. It treats largely 
upon Queen Eearing, in which branch of bee-keeping its 
author has had twenty-five years' experience. He is oue 
of the best informed bee-keepers in this special direction, 
and his book should be read by every bee-keeper. 

I have recently received a prospectus of a new work 
called a "Dictionary of Practical Apiculture" by Prof. 
Phin. I believe that the work will be reliable and of 
extreme interest, as it treats of a department in bee- 
culture which has not received much attention. 

I must not fail to recognize the aid we have received 
from foreign writers in their books and periodicals. 
There are probably no finer, highly-magnified illustra- 
tions of the honey-bee, than those found in the " Anatomy 
and Physiology of the Honey-Bee," by Michel Grirdwoyn, 
published by J. Kothschild, Paris, France. 

Mr. Quinby's characteristic benevolence caused him to 
feel a genuine anxiety that bee-keeping should become a 



THE HONEY-BEE. 23 

generally followed pursuit, and those who were familiar 
with his line of thought, will remember the enthusiasm 
with which he always encouraged its adoption as a means 
of increasing the revenues of the country, and at the 
same time, saving a product that was annually going to 
waste. 

If this work shall, in any degree, carry out his wishes 
in performing this office, I shall feel amply repaid for the 
embarrassments under which I have labored, not only 
in the consciousness of having fulfilled a duty to him to 
whom I have been under so many obligations, but in the 
gratification of having, ever so slightly, advanced a call- 
ing that is not only honorable and lucrative, but elevat- 
ing and ennobling. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE HONEY-BEE. 

SIMPLE FACTS IN ITS NATURAL HISTORY. 

In its natural state, a colony of bees oonsists of a 
queen, several thousand Workers and. during a part of 
the year, a few hundred drones. 

THE QUEEN. 

The Queen is the mother of the entire colony. Her 
only duty seems to be to lay eggs, of which she sometimes 
deposits two thousand in twenty -four hours. In shape 
(fig. 1), she resembles the worker more than the drone, 
but is longer than either, and, like the worker, possesses 
a sting, but seldom uses it, except in combat with a rival 
queen. Her color upon the upper side is darker than 
that of the others ; the two posterior legs and under-side 
are of a bright copper color. In some queens a yellow 



24 THE HOHET-BEE. 

stripe nearly encircles the abdomen at the joints. All the 
colors are bright and glossy, and she has but little of the 
down or hair that is seen on the drones and workers. 
Different queens vary much in color, some being much 
darker than others. A still greater variation is presented 
in the Italian queens, most of which are of a rich golden 
color, while a few are even darker than the usual shade 
of the natives. 

For the first f?w days after leaving her cell, her size is 
much less than after she has assumed her maternal duties. 
The average age attained by the queen, is 
about three years. The idea that she gov- 
erns the colony, and directs all their opera- 
tions, is probably totally erroneous. They 
manifest a certain regard and affection for 
her, however, and a half dozen may often 
be seen gathered around her, as shown in 
-queen. f|g Ure 2. Bees will, when destitute of a 
queen, continue their labors to some extent, but her pres- 
ence is necessary to insure their permanent prosperity. 

WOKKEKS. 

In size, the workers (fig. 3), are smaller than the 
queen or drones. Upon them devolves all the labor of 
the colony. They are provided with a sac or bag for 
gathering honey, and basket-like cavities on their poste- 
rior legs in which to pack the pollen of the flowers in 
little pellets, for carrying it home to the hive. They range 
the fields for honey and pollen, secrete wax, construct 
combs, prepare food to nurse the joung, bring water, 
obtain propolis to seal up all crevices and flaws about the 
hive, stand guard to keep out intruders, etc. 

For the defence of their treasures and themselves, 
they are provided with a sting &,nd a virulent poison, but 
will seldom use it when abroad, if unmolested ; they vol- 
unteer an attack only when near the hive. 




TfiE EOKEY-BEE. 



25 



This sting, as it appears to the naked eye, is but a 
tiny instrument of war, so small, indeed, that its wound 




Fig. 2. — A GROUP OF BEES. 

would pass unheeded by all the larger animals, were it 
not for the poison introduced at the same instant. It 
has been described as being "composed 
of three parts, a sheath and two darts." 
The greatly magnified sting and the sac 
containing the poison are shown in figure 4 
on the next page. The darts which pene- 
trate the flesh are close side by side in 
'their sheath or tube below; these darts 
are also represented at one side and separated to show 
% 




26 



THE HONEY-BEE. 



the barbs or small points with which they are fur- 
nished. The portions at each side are muscles, etc., 
which remain attached when the sting is drawn from the 
bee, as happens when the darts are thrust into the flesh 
and cannot be withdrawn on account of the barbs; the 
bee is compelled to leave it behind, and loses its life. 
The workers are all females with undeveloped organs 
of generation, yet they possess 
enough of the maternal instinct 
to make them good nurses for 
the brood of the real mother. 
For several days after the 
young worker emerges from its 
cell, it is almost exclusively 
engaged within the hive, there- 
after it assists in collecting 
stores. 

The life of the worker varies 
from one to eight months, ac- 
cording to the time at which 
it is hatched. In the busiest 
season it lives but a few weeks, 
but when hatched at the be- 
ginning of cool weather, its life is extended through 
several months. 




WORKER. 



THE STING OF 



DRONES. 



The Drones (fig. 5), are the males ; their bodies are 
large and clumsy, and without the symmetry of the queen 
and worker. Their buzzing when on the wing, is loud, 
and different from that of the workers. They have no 
sting, and may be taken in the fingers with impunity. 
They seem to be the least valuable class in the bee-com- 
munity. They assist, sometimes, in keeping up the 
necessary animal heat in the hive ; but one only, out of 




THE HONEY-BEE. 27 

thousands, is actually serviceable in fecundating the 
queen. The number reared depends upon 
the strength of the colony, and the stores • 
on hand, or being collected. 

Whenever a scarcity of honey occurs, 
they are all destroyed. Thus their life is 
very precarious, being sometimes limited 
to a few hours, or extended to a few days, 
ig. 5.— dkone. weekg ^ or mon t ns j Du t averaging much 

less than that of the workers. 

CONSTRUCTION OF COMB. 

When the flowers expand their delicate petals, and 
furnish their stores of nectar and pollen, the bees need 
no stimulus from man to induce them to secure these 
proffered treasures. Instinct prompts them to collect 
these stores, and make suitable provision for the rearing 
of their young.* To this end, comb must be construct- 
ed ; to produce the materials for this, a large amount of 
honey is consumed, and by a wonderful process of nature, 
a secretion of wax takes place, of which the delicate 
combs are speedily built. (See Chap. XII). The cells 
of which these combs are composed, are hexagonal in 
form, and ordinarily of two sizes, adapted respectively to 
the rearing of workers and of drones. Queen-cells are 
exceptional in shape and size, and are constructed as 
needed, with a view to swarming. 

GATHERING AND , STORING POLLEN. 

The pollen of flowers comprises the chief food of the 
young bees. When collecting it, the bees alight upon the 



* The idea is prevalent, that when hees are taken to a warm climate, where 
they can gather honey during the whole year, they will lose this instinct to 
accumulate stores, and only provide for their immediate wants. Tins is an 
error, as the large quantities of surplus honey stored in such regions, abun- 
dantly prove. 



28 THE HONEY-BEE. 

flowers, and pass rapidly over the anthers, the pollen- 
bearing portion of the stamens, detaching a portion of 
the dust, which lodges on most parts of them, and is 
brushed together and packed in little pellets in the curi- 
ous "pollen-baskets" on their posterior legs. 

This process is much more readily observed, when 
the bees are collecting rye-meal, which is sometimes^given 
them as a substitute for pollen. That they gather pollen 
from but one kind of flower at once, is shown by the 
uniformity of color in the pellets, pollen from different 
species, varying greatly in color. It is usually packed in 
worker-cells, and is generally in the vicinity of the brood- 
combs, but small portions being often found in other 
parts of the hive. 

It is easy to observe the bees depositing their loads 
of pollen. The legs holding the pellets are thrust into 
the cell, and a motion as if rubbing them together is 
made for half a minute, when they are withdrawn, and 
the little loaves may be seen at the bottom. This bee 
appears to take no further care about them, but another 
will soon come along, enter the cell head first, and pack 
the pollen close. The cell is filled about two-thirds of its 
length in this way, and when sealed over, a little honey is 
used to fill it out. This is undoubtedly done to keep it 
fresh. The collected pollen is known as "bee-bread." 

GATHERING AND STORING HONEY. 

The bee gathers honey from the flowers, but does not 
make it, as is frequently supposed. It is taken into the 
honey-sac or stomach, and on the return to the hive, is 
expelled for storage in the cells. 

The process of filling cells with honey is curious and 
instructive. It may be observed by quietly removing the 
side of a modern hive, when the bees are at work on the 
outside comb, or by arranging a window in a hive, covered 
with a door or slide. 



THE HONEY-BEE. 29 

The bee goes to the bottom of the cell, deposits a 
particle of honey, and brushes it into the corners or 
angles with its tongue, carefully excluding all the air. 
As it is tilled, that nearest the sides of the cells is kept 
in advance of the center. This is just as a philosopher 
would say it should be done. If the cell were filled at 
once, without attaching the honey to the sides, the external 
air would not keep it in place, as it now does effectually, 
when the cell is of ordinary length. When the cell is 
about one-fourth of an inch deep, bees often commence 
filling it, and as it is lengthened, they continue to add 
honey, keeping it within an eighth of an inch of the ends. 
It is never quite full, until nearly sealed over, and often 
not then. In worker cells the sealing seldom touches 
the honey. * But in drone cells the case is different ; in 
these, honey at the end touches the sealing about half way 
up. It is kept in the same concave shape while being filled, 
but being in a larger cell, the atmospheric pressure is less 
effectual in keeping it in its place ; consequently, when 
they commence sealing these cells, they begin on the 
lower side, and finish at the top. 

PEOPOLJS AND ITS USE. 

Propolis is doubtless the gum or resinous coating 
which protects the buds of many kinds of trees. 

It may be found in many species of Populus, particu- 
larly the Balsam Poplar, (Populus halsamifera), and the 
variety (candicans), known as the Balm of Gilead. I 
have seen the bees collecting it, and have frequently seen 
them enter the hive with what appeared to be the pun 
article on their legs, resembling pollen, except that th*» 
surface is smooth and glossy. It is of a much lighter color 
when new, than it is after it gets a little age. I have 
seen bees when they appeared unable to dislodge the pro- 

• This is true only of the native bee*. 



30 THE HONEY-BEE. 

polis themselves, and were continually running around 
among those engaged in using it in the hive. 

When one required a little, it seized the pellet with 
its forceps, and detached a portion. The whole lump 
will not cleave off at once, but firmly adheres to the leg, 
and from its tenacity, a string an inch long, will some- 
times be formed in separating. This substance is used 
to solder up all the cracks, flaws, and irregularities about 
the hive. A coat is spread over the inside throughout, 
and when the hive is full, and many bees cluster outside 
the latter part of summer, they also spread a coating 
there. A layer seems to be annually applied, as old hives 
are coated with a thickness proportionate to their age, 
provided they have been occupied by a strong family. 

In August they use a hundred-fold more propolis 
than at any time before. Boxes filled in. June contain 
but very little, sometimes none ; but when filled in 
August, the corners, and sometimes the top and sides are 
well lined. Cracks, large enough for the bees to pass 
through, are sometimes completely filled with it. 

BROOD-REARING. — WHEN IT BEGINS. 

The period at which the queen commences depositing 
her eggs, depends upon the strength of the colony, and 
the amount of honey on hand. If these conditions are 
favorable, breeding will take place, to a certain extent, 
during the winter months, but is not carried on largely 
until warm weather approaches, and honey is gathered 
freely. 

FORM OF THE BROOD-NEST. 

The first eggs are deposited in that part of the comb 
which is in the center of the cluster of bees and is the 
warmest part of the hive. A small space is occupied at 
first, and the cells opposite, in the same comb, are used 
next. 



THE HONEY-BEE. 31 

If there is sufficient warmth in the hive, produced 
either by warm weather or generated by the bees, the queen 
will fill a spot on the adjoining combs corresponding with 
the first, but not quite so large. The circle of eggs in the 
first comb is then enlarged, and more added to the next, 
and so on, continuing to spread, and keeping the dis- 
tance from the center to the outside of the space occu- 
pied by eggs about equally on all sides, until they occupy 
the entire surf ace of the comb. Long before the outer 
edge is occupied, the first eggs deposited are matured, and 
the queen returns to the center, and uses these cells 
again, but she is not as particular this time to fill so many 
in exact order as at first, though with the Italian queens, 
the brood is always very compact. 

The rapidity with which this brood-nest is extended, 
depends upon the supply of food that is being collected, 
the strength of the colony, and their ability to properly 
protect and care for the maturing brood. 

PEOCESS OF EGG-LAYING. 

It is very interesting to watch the queen in this 
operation. I have frequently lifted out a comb on which 
an Italian queen was engaged in laying, without inter- 
rupting her in the least. The light has no immediate 
effect upon her, as she will quietly continue about her 
duty, not the least embarrassed by curious eyes. 

Before depositing an egg, she enters the cell head 
first, probably to ascertain if it is in proper condition, as 
a cell partly filled with pollen or honey, is never used. 
When it is fit to receive the egg, on withdrawing her 
head, she immediately curves her abdomen and inserts it. 
After a few seconds she leaves the cell, when an egg may 
be seen attached by one end to the bottom. It is about 
one-sixteenth of an inch in length, slightly curved, very 
Bmall, nearly uniform the whole length, abruptly rounded 



32 



THE HONEY-BEE. 




FiST. 6.— EGGS AND LARVJE. 



at the ends, semi-transparent, and covered with a very 
thin and delicate coat, which will often break at the 
slightest touch. 

WHEN THE EGGS HATCH. 

After the egg has been in the cell about three days, a 
small white worm may be seen coiled in the bottom, sur- 
rounded by a milk-like sub- 
stance, which, without doubt, 
is its food. How this food is 
prepared, is mere conjecture. 
The supposition is, that it is 
chiefly composed of pollen ; 
this is strongly indicated by 
the quantity which accumu- 
lates in hives that lose their 
queen and rear no brood — that 
is, when a requisite number of 
workers is left. The workers may be seen entering the 
cell every few minutes, probably to supply this food. 
When the comb is new and white, these operations can 
be seen more distinctly than when it is old and dark. 
(Pig. 6.) 

In about six days after the worm hatches, it is sealed 
over with a convex waxen lid. It is now hidden from our 
sight for about twelve days, when it bites off the cover, 
and comes forth a perfect bee. A very thin silken 
cocoon remains, which has been spun by the larva. Old 
combs are sometimes thought to be objectionable, from 
the accumulation of these cocoons, thereby reducing the 
cells in size, and diminishing the size of the bees reared 
in them ; but the extreme thinness of the lining deprives 
this objection of force. The period from the egg to the 
perfect bee, varies from twenty to twenty-four days, aver- 
aging about twenty-one for workers, and twenty-four for 
drones. The temperature of the hive will vary somewhat 



THE HONEY-BEE. 3$ 

with the atmosphere ; it is also governed by the number 
of bees. A low temperature probably retards the develop- 
ment of brood, while a high one facilitates it. 

The young bee, when it first hatches from the egg, is 
termed a larva ; from this state it changes to the shape of 
the perfect bee, which is said to be three days after finish- 
ing the cocoon. From the time of this change, until it is 
ready to leave the cell, the terms pupa, nymph, and chry- 
salis, are applied. The lid of the drone cell is rather 
more convex than that of the worker, and when removed 
by the young bee in working its way out, is left nearly 
perfect, being cut off around the edges ; a coat or lining 
of silk keeps it whole. The covering of the worker cell is 
mostly wax, and is much cut to pieces by the time the 
bee emerges. The covering to the queen cell is like that 
of the drone cell, but of greater diameter, and thicker, 
being lined with a little more silk. 

The difference between sealed brood-cells, and honey- 
cells, is chiefly distinguishable by the darker color of the 
capping of the former, and their slight depression below 
the plane of the honey-cells. 

At the proper season, when the hive becomes crowded 
with bees, and honey is plenty, and they are left to the 
course which their natural instincts dictate, preparations 
for swarming will commence. One of tbe first steps is 
the construction of more or less queen-cells. 

THE QUEEN-CELL. 

The shape of this cell depends on the position of the 
comb from which it is made ; if, from a comb with cells 
of ordinary length, they are enlarged, lengthened, and 
turned downward. If the cells are not very deep, or are 
near the lower edge of the comb where there is abundant 
room to turn them down, the enlargement and change of 
direction will be made very soon after they decide upon 
making a queen-cell. 



34 THE HONEY-BEE. 

Cells that are short, like those on the lower edge of 
comb not completed, or, on the side, seem to be preferred, 
and quite a number are often built close together. 

When these are one-third or one-half don£, the queen 
will deposit eggs in them. 

When hatched, the larva is supplied with a super- 
abundance of food ; this appears from the fact that a 
quantity is frequently found remaining in the cell after 
the queen has left. The consistency of this substance is 
about like cream, the color somewhat lighter, or just 
tinged with yellow. 

The time in which an egg, originally destined for a 
queen, matures, does not vary much from sixteen days. 
When som© of these young queens are sufficiently ad- 
vanced to be sealed over, the old queen, and the greater 
part of the workers, abandon the hive for a new location, 
(this action is termed " swarming"), leaving those remain- 
ing to maintain the prosperity of the old home. The 
bees after leaving, soon collect in a cluster, and if put in 
an empty hive, will commence anew their labors, con- 
structing combs, rearing brood, and storing honey ; thus 
establishing a new colony. 

In ordinary circumstances when a swarm has thus left 
a stock, the oldest of the young queens is ready to issue 
from her cell in about seven or eight days. When she 
appears, she will, if not restrained by the bees, at once 
proceed to bite into the remaining queen-cells and sting 
the immature queens to death. But if another swarm is 
not contemplated they will permit her to accomplish 
their destruction. In three or four aays thereafter, if 
the weather is favorable, the queen will leave the hive 
for connection with the drone. 

In their preliminary preparations for swarming num- 
bers of drones have been reared for this purpose. This 
meeting takes place high in the air. The queen' upon 
her return frequently bears evident marks of the conneo- 



THE HONEY-BEE. 35 

tion, and usually begins to lay in three to four days 
afterwards, and continues throughout the season, unless 
some special interruption occurs. 

Except upon this occasion, and in leading out a 
swarm, the queen probably never voluntarily leaves the 
hive. 

If, from any cause, the yield of honey fails so far as 
to make the existence of a swarm in any way hazardous, 
these preparations are abandoned, and the youug queens 
in all stages, from the egg to maturity, are destroyed. 

When this takes place the drones are the next vic- 
tims. But when this scarcity and consequent destruction 
do not occur, the drones are spared until later in the 
season, still they seldom survive the winter. The presence 
of drones in a hive at an unusual season, indicates the 
abseuce or deficiency of a queen. 

FACTS AND THEORIES CONCERNING GENERATION. 

The theory of parthe no-genesis demonstrated by Dzier- 
zon, the able apiarian of Germany, is confirmed by the 
experiments of Mr. Langstroth and many others. Mr. 
Langstroth relates some interesting observations, proving 
that unimpregnated or virgin queens produce drone 
progeny only, and that queens or workers cannot be reared 
from such eggs. Dzierzon established the fact that all 
impregnated eggs produce workers or queens. 

Mr. Quinby was not only a diligent student of all the 
views and experiments of these scientific apiarians, but in 
his own investigations, was ceaseless in the endeavor to 
demonstrate the truths which a genuine enthusiasm 
prompted him to seek. 

: Many of these facts recorded by other investigators he 
proved for himself, and during my association with him 
1 assisted him largely in his experiments. That drone- 
eggs are not affected by the impregnation of the queen,. 



36 



' THE HONEY-BEE. 



we clearly demonstrated, as have many others, by the 
simple test of an Italian queen, fecundated by a native 
drone, which produced pure Italian drones, and mixed 
queens and workers. Also, when a native queen meets an 
Italian drone, the result is similar ; the drones are pure 
natives, and the others of mixed blood. 

These facts being determined, it is easy to understand 
how the eggs of an unimpregnated queen, will produce 

drones in whatever cells 
they may be deposited. The 
fertilization of the queen 
fills the spermatheca with 
the seminal fluid, which 
impregnates a certain por- 
tion of the eggs, as they 
pass from the ovaries, 
through the oviduct in 
the process of egg-laying. 
(Pig. 7). 

The precise causes which 
produce the fertilization of 
this certain portion of eggs, 
viz., those from which 
queens and workers are 
hatched, and the non-fer- 
tilization of drone-eggs, are 
yet the basis of some dis- 

Fig. 7.— OVARIES OF THE QUEEN. CU ggj on# 

Mr. Wagner, the founder of the American Bee Journal, 
advocated the theory that fertilization was affected by the 
size of the cells in which the eggs were deposited ; the 
slight compression produced by the small worker cells, 
being Sufficient to force the fluid from the spermatheca 
as the eggs are laid. Mr. Quinby took this view, all his 
experience tending to corroborate it. In support of this, 
be says: "When I first, saw -the smallest queen that J 




THE HONEY-BEE. 37 

ever raised, whose body was even smaller than that of a 
worker, it occurred to me at once that if she ever laid, it 
would be a test of this theory. Her body being small, it 
could not be compressed like that of others, and a large 
portion of her progeny, would prove to be drones in work- 
er-cells. The result was just what I expected ; one half 
were drones." 

Oapt. Hetherington vouches for similar experience, and 
approves of this theory. Prof. Cook, who claims that 
the fertilizing fluid is forced out at will, by voluntary 
muscular contraction, presents the opposing statement, 
that very small queens make no mistakes, and that with 
no drone-cells, the queen will sometimes lay drone-eggs in 
worker-cells which will hatch drones, and also that she 
will, if compelled, reluctantly place worker-eggs in drone- 
pells. 

I have read and re-read this statement to see if I could 
not find some qualification, that would harmonize it with 
my own observations, but in this, our experience differs 
widely. We, (Mr. Quinby and myself,) gave this point a 
great deal of earnest thought and study. In hundreds of 
tests and experiments we were never able to detect a sin- 
gle variation in the rule, that a worker or queen would 
never be hatched from an egg, deposited in a drone-cell 
of ordinary size and depth. This is corroborated by the 
fact that when furnishing a strong swarm with none but 
drone-combs, where their natural instinct would lead them 
to rear workers, if possible, I have never found workers 
or queens raised under these circumstances. This con- 
clusion is sustained by some of the best writers of the past 
and present. 

Prof. Cook argues against Mr. Wagner's theory from 
the fact that fertilized eggs are deposited in queen-cells, 
which are too large to afford the necesssary compression, 
and also in unfinished worker-cells whose walls are not 
sufficiently extended to produce it. 



38 THE HONEY-BEE. 

I would suggest as an explanation of this, that where 
she is not aided by the size of the cell, as in ordinary 
worker-cells, the shallowness of these unfinished queen 
and worker-cells affords her room to curve her body, in 
order to accomplish the desired fertilization. 

In reference to this, one fact must be borne in mind, 
that in all our experience has held good, which is, that 
an egg is not found to be deposited in a queen-cell after 
it has been built out to its full length. In my mind this 
rule is established, (although it is not well to consider 
these points invariable), that a queen cannot deposit a 
fertile egg in a full length queen-cell or drone-cell, from 
the lack of the aid of these requisites to compression. 

On the whole, I am inclined to sustain Mr. Wagner's 
view, to the extent that the size of the worker-cells aids 
in producing the muscular effort which secures f ertiliza- < 
tion ; and also the idea that in cases where eggs are de- 
posited in incomplete worker or queen-cells, the curving 
of her body tends to produce the same result. 

May not the instance which Prof. Cook cites of a 
worker-egg being deposited in a drone-cell, be accounted 
for on the supposition that the egg was laid before the 
cell was complete ? 

FERTILE WORKERS. 

There are exceptional instances where workers become 
able to deposit eggs but. like those of the virgin queen, 
they invariably produce drones. . _ 

It may not be very difficult to account for this anoma- 
lous production of eggs, if we consider workers to be simply 
undeveloped females. The deprivation of a queen that 
always precedes the occurrence, may produce the in- 
tense desire for the continued welfare of the colony, 
which develops their internal structure to a suf- 
ficient degree to produce eggs. Mr. Quinby dis- 
proved the theory of E[uber that they are developed by 



ITALIAN BEES. 39 

being reared in the vicinity of queen -cells, and partaking 
of a small quantity of royal food ; by the fact that he had 
fertile workers that were taken from a colony that had 
never reared a queen. 

Personally, I have great interest in these physiological 
investigations, but have preferred to carry out the original 
design of this book, in dwelling chiefly upon the practical, 
rather than the theoretical and scientific phases of the 
subject. 

The natural history of the bee has been most ably pre- 
sented by Prof. Cook, in his " Manual of the Apiary," 
which I heartily commend to all who are interested in 
that branch of apiarian science. 



CHAPTER II. 

ITALIAN BEES. 

ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEES. 

It is only within the past twenty years that American 
bee-keepers have known of the existence of any other than 
oui native, or dark-colored, bees. Classical scholars famil- 
iar with Aristotle and Virgil, have doubtless read of the 
different varieties described by them, but would scarcely 
imagine that the beautiful golden bees of Virgil's song 
have perpetuated their race in such purity, that their 
descendants are to-day bred as a distinct variety in our 
apiaries. 

Mr. Langstroth, in his valuable treatise, gives much 
interesting information concerning the cultivation of the 
Italian bees in Europe, to which I refer those curious 
upon the subject. 

FIRST INTRODUCED IN AMERICA. 

Efforts were made to import Italian bees to America in 



40 ITALIAN" BEES. 

1855 and 1859, but, I believe, none were successful until 
1860, when Mr. Mahan, Mr. S. B. Parsons, and others, 
first introduced them. They were at once received with 
very general approbation. In fact, they met with such 
favor that, until very recently, I have known of but few 
instances of dissatisfaction. 

Nearly every apiarian of note admitted most of the su- 
perior qualities claimed for them by German bee-keepers, 
before their introduction here, and which were afterwards 
set forth by those who first brought them into notice. 

CHARACTERISTICS. 

The Italian bees were said to be larger and more beau- 
tiful, more prolific, to swarm earlier and of tener, to work 
earlier and later, and to gather more honey, to work on 
blossoms that the natives do not, to be less inclined to 
rob, to defend themselves better, and to be less disposed 
to sting, besides possessing many minor excellencies. 

It speaks well for the judgment of our German friends 
that, where they claimed so much for these bees, their 
representations should be so well sustained. 

There are parties who have recently gone to the other 
extreme, and affirm them to be even inferior to our native 
bees. While the Italians have been domesticated in nearly 
every part of this country, and the majority of intelligent 
bee-keepers have become familiar with their habits and 
qualities, it is nevertheless true that very many are still 
unacquainted with them. 

The history of this race of bees for the past 2,000 years 
gives us an intelligent idea of their general characteris- 
tics, but the authority from which I shall speak with 
most assurance, is my own personal experience with them 
during the past ten years, combined with that of Mr. 
Quinby, who had cultivated them, with the patience and 
enthusiasm for which he was noted, for fifteen years. Ha 



ITALIAN BEES. 41 

was among the very first to secure Italian queens; reared 
from the first imported stock in I860, and subsequently 
imported them himself. Probably no other bee-keeper, 
at that date, took more enthusiastic interest in their 
cultivation or pursued his experiments with less prejudice 
for or against them, than Mr. Quinby. . 

Being associated in business with him for five years, I 
received the benefit of his most careful experiments and 
observations. 

We bred Italians largely for the trade, for which purpose 
we had stock that equalled any in America. We also 
operated for honey, each season, from 200 to 400 colonies 
comprised of both natives and Italians, as well as hybrids 
of all grades. If there are any tests to which we did not 
repeatedly subject them, I am unable to imagine what 
they may be. 

With the benefit of this experience, then, let us con- 
sider some of the various excellencies claimed for them. 

Larger and More Beautiful. — It is an easily verified 
fact, first noticed by Dzierzon, that the size of the cells 
in which Italians and natives are reared, is the same, and 
it must naturally follow that the bees themselves cannot 
differ perceptibly in size. 

Our attention has been forcibly called to this point, 
when we have shipped Italian bees to parties who were 
disappointed because they were not larger; and I have no 
doubt that they also failed to meet expectations in regard 
to their boasted superiority in color and beauty. Yet, 
I consider this point of beauty one to be appreciated. 
When the young Italians are flying thickly in front of 
their hive on a sunny day, I pronounce them truly beau- 
tiful. 

More Prolific. — This I have demonstrated to my satis- 
faction. The Italian queen deposits her eggs more com- 
pactly in the combs than does the native. This is so 
evident, that I usually have no trouble, when a card of 



42 ITALIAN BEES. 

brood is brought to me, in determining whether the eggs 
were laid by an Italian or native queen. 

Another reason why they are more prolific, is, that they 
yenture out in cool, spring weather, bringing in both 
water and pollen, when the natives are less energetic. Of 
this, I shall speak further in connection with other points. 
If taken from winter quarters too early in spring, theii 
disposition prompts them to great activity, and they ven- 
ture out and are lost, which accounts for their suffering 
more largely by wasting in spring, than the natives. 

Swarm Earlier and Oftener. — The fact that they are 
more prolific, indicates that they will become populous 
earlier in the season, and this being the prime requisite 
for early swarms, it readily follows that they may be ex- 
pected to swarm earlier. It is noticeable that, whatever 
the variety, those that swarm soonest also swarm oftenest. 
With the present advanced system of management, where 
swarming is not desired, this tendency is not itself an 
advantage, but the condition that gives us a large num- 
ber of bees, is of much importance. We thus secure a 
large force available when swarming is controlled. 

Work Earlier and Later, gather more Honey, and Worh 
on Blossoms that the Natives do not, — This, doubtless, 
may be the case at times. We have had Italian swarms 
fill boxes with white honey, not storing a cell of dark, 
when, at the same time, the natives were working exclu- 
sively on Buckwheat; that plant yields honey only in the 
early part of the day, and such swarms of Italians will be 
found at work much more freely in the afternoon than the 
others. 

It is in the nature of the bee that, when honey is 
abundant, all bees will improve all their time, even fre- 
quently leaving the hive so late at night, that they do not 
return until the next morning, if fortunate enough to do 
so at all. That Italians do work upon some kinds of 
blossoms more freely than natives, as upon the Red 



ITALIAN" BEES. 43 

Clover, has been confirmed by a variety of testimony. 
This, may, to some extent, account for the reports we 
hear of their gathering double as much honey as the na- 
tives in the same locality. If only buckwheat honey were 
accessible, I should expect the natives to gather the most, 
as they work much better upon it than do the Italians. 
It is certain that either they do not maintain the standard 
claimed in this respect, or else they must take some such 
advantage as above stated. While I confess to a prefer- 
ence for the Italians in this regard, our experience will 
hardly justify the extreme superiority claimed. 

Less Inclined to Rob. — I can hardly imagine how any 
practical bee-keeper can come to this conclusion. The 
same characteristics that make them more vigorous in 
securing stores from other sources, must prompt them to 
activity, when honey is in any way improperly exposed. 

In regard to their propensity to rob, Mr. Quinby says: 
' ' Their industry, activity, and keen scent are remarka- 
ble, enabling them to find honey where the natives are 
seldom seen." When feeding rye-flour, it is noticeable 
that the Italians are first to carry it away with zeal. If 
this were not true, I should have no faith in the state, 
ments m regard to their superiority in early increase, etc. 
If honey in the comb is exposed, they are the first to find 
it, and if the comb is new and tender, they will appro- 
priate it, and use it in the construction of their own 
comb. 

Although I have never practised it largely, I find, by 
experiment, that wax made from waste pieces of comb, 
may be utilized by melting it, and stirring thoroughly 
with honey or syrup as it cools ; this leaves the wax in 
particles that may be fed for comb-building. As there 
are occasionally instances when the Italians are busy upon 
blossoms which the natives do not frequent, and the 
latter are, from lack of forage, comparatively idle, they 
may from this cause, at times; be first & find a weak 



44 ITALIAN BEES. 

Bwarm and rob it, thus furnishing plausible evidence in 
favor of the better habits of the Italians. 

Defend Themselves Better. — Here I apply the same 
test of determination and vigor, and endorse the superi- 
ority claimed for them in this particular. I have fre- 
quently observed them, as they alighted near the entrance 
of a hive of natives, and in almost every instance escaped, 
after being seized by those belonging there, and I have 
as often seen the reverse occur, when the natives trespass- 
ed upon the premises of the Italians. When detected, 
they were seized, and in nearly every case stung to death. 
The Italians seem to be more constantly on the watch, 
and more swift to discern the approach of an enemy. 
I find that a much smaller swarm of Italians than of 
natives, may be expected to defend themselves success* 
fully. 

Less Inclined to Sting. — The past record of this variety 
of the honey-bee, represents them as being much more 
docile, and manifesting far less inclination to sting. This, 
no doubt, arose from the fact that they had not been so 
harshly treated as our natives. Our experience confirms 
the statement, that if an Italian queen is reared from 
pure stock, and the swarm handled as gently as it should 
be, from the outset, they will be found pleasant to man- 
age, and less disposed to sting ; but if smoked with 
tobacco, and roughly treated, the energy displayed in 
other directions is here manifested, and the result will 
be a larger number of stings, and a worse effect than 
from the natives. 

Hybrids are pronounced by many preferable to either 
of the pure varieties, and they are unquestionably among 
the best of honey-gatherers. I much prefer the pure 
Italians because of their better disposition. 

As Box-Honey Workers. — That box-honey usually pre- 
sents a finer appearance when stored by the natives, I 
chink will be generally conceded. The Italians store the 



ITALIAN BEES. 45 

cells fuller, and cap them over directly against the honey, 
giving the surface a watery appearance ; while the na- 
tives leave a little unfilled place which causes the cap- 
ping to appear whiter. The difference is so marked that 
an expert can usually tell, by examining a box of honey, 
by which variety of bees it was stored. While this pe- 
culiarity of the Italians may affect the appearance of box- 
honey, I conceive that it is an advantage where the honey 
is stored in combs for winter, as this complete filling of 
the cells entirely excludes every particle of air. 

More Peaceable while being Handled. — That the pure 
Italians are more agreeable to handle, I believe there is 
no room to dispute. The search for a queen, will con- 
vince the most prejudiced of the truth of this assertion. 
The Italians, both queen and workers, will remain quietly 
upon the combs, while the natives are much more easily 
disturbed. 

I prefer the Italians, when extracting, yet the fact that 
they cling so closely to the comb, is an inconvenience, as 
it increases the labor of the operation. While the black 
bees may be nearly all dislodged from the comb by a sud- 
den movement, many of the Italians must be brushed off 
with a wing. 

Motli-Larvai. — We find Italians much less liable to be 
injured by the larvae of the bee-moth, when, from any 
cause, they become reduced in number. Their superi- 
ority to the natives in this respect is well marked, as 
might be inferred from their energetic nature. 

Late Breeding. — It is affirmed that the natives breed 
later in the fall, and consequently go into winter quart- 
ers with more young bees. Let us illustrate with a colony 
of each variety. Let boxes be placed upon both hives, 
and furnished so long as the yield of honey continues. 
As the yield diminishes, it will be found that breeding 
continues more largely with the natives, and the honey 
will be stored in the boxes ; while the Italians will fill 



46 ITALIAN SEES. 

the space in the brood-chamber, with stores, earlier in 
the season, and be much heavier in the fall than the na- 
tives. When the honey season is over, we have known 
native colonies that had stored a goodly amount of honey 
in boxes, to be entirely without in the brood-chamber.* 

This shows why the Italians rear less brood late in the 
season. It is not that they do not prolong breeding as 
late as the others, but their space is more limited. We 
have tested them extensively, when the combs were 
emptied in extracting, and invariably found them to 
breed as late and as freely as the natives. A little fore- 
thought will easily supply the required conditions, and 
obviate this cause of complaint. 

Longer Life. — If one desires to determine the relative 
length of life of the two varieties, it may be done by 
taking a comb of brood that is just beginning to mature, 
from each of two colonies, Italian and native. 

Select such cards as contain nearly equal quantities of 
brood. Place them in an empty hive with such bees as 
adhere to them, and leave them to hatch. This should 
be done when honey is being gathered. If a queen should 
be reared, she should be removed before depositing any 
eggs. These bees being so nearly of an age, may be 
watched as they waste away, and there being no queen to 
rear more, it may soon be decided which disappear most 
rapidly. Our experience prove the Italians to be much 
longer lived. 

Color not an Absolute Test of Purity. — As a rule, all 
other things being equal, the brightest colored queens 
and drones are to be preferred. Nevertheless, I have had 
some very fine Italian queens that were quite dark-colored, 
and I am confident that the very best workers I ever saw, 
were pure Italian, and yet of a brownish color, with no 
very distinct bands. I have also had those that were 

* I have found it very desirable to take heavy combs from the Italians at 
such times, and give them to the natives. 



ITALIAK BEES. 47 

particularly bright and yellow, with three distinct bands, 
which seems to be considered by many the best test of 
purity, that in othei respects showed signs of impurity. 

Finally, after candid comparison of the two varieties, 
I must say that we have obtained the most satisfactory 
results by keeping both. And this seems to me sufficient 
proof that neither race monopolizes all the best qualities. 
It is unquestionable that their relative value will vary in 
different localities. My advice to all who have not already 
done so, is to test both sorts for themselves. 

How to Procure Italians. — There are many reliable 
persons engaged in rearing Italians, from whom good 
stock may be secured. Full swarms may be purchased, 
or a single queen maybe introduced to a colony of native 
bees. In twenty-one days after her introduction, if fer- 
tile, her progeny will begin to appear, and if the change 
is made in spring, the native bees will usually all disap- 
pear during the summer. The details of the process ap- 
pear in the chapter on Queens. 

A queen maybe purchased for $2.00, that, in 1860, 
would have cost $20.00 (the price Mr. Qui nby paid for 
his first queen), and if the investment paid then, as 
surely was the case, it certainly must do so now. 

To those who assert that they can not perceive any 
superior qualities in the natives, and that they do not want 
even one swarm, I say, test both kinds side by side, and 
compare them carefully. 

But do not buy Italians as some do, with the expecta- 
tion that they will of themselves insure success, without 
intelligent care. -They are but valuable assistants. Any- 
thing which stimulates active investigation in bee-keep- 
ers, brings experience, upon which success must be based. 
■ Cyprians j Syrians, Carniolans, Etc. — Through the 
efforts of Messrs. D. A. Jones, Frank Benton, and others, 
who have spent much time and money in this direction, 
several varieties of bees, -new to -this country, have been 
introduced, and their value to some extent tested. 



48 SOUKCES OF HONEY. 

The Cyprians have some marked characteristics. They 
have been quite thoroughly tested, but do not grow in 
favor with the majority. They are far too irritable to be 
agreeable to handle. Some consider them superior honey- 
gatherers. I have given them quite a thorough trial, and 
the only point I could find in their favor, was a tendency 
to breed late in the fall, which is desirable as affording a 
good force of young bees when going into winter quarters. 
I have not tested the Syrians. Mr. Benton pronounces 
them among the very best. The Carniolans are said to 
possess some very desirable qualities, and a cross between 
them and the Italians has a good reputation. Much has 
been said of the Holy Land or Palestine bees, but my own 
experience does not corroborate all that is claimed for them. 

Mr. Julius Hoffman received an importation of Cau- 
casian bees in 1880. He has experimented quite exten- 
sively with them, and is of the opinion that they are 
superior in many respects. In fact, I have never heard 
more desirable points claimed for any one variety than 
Mr. Hoffman claims for these. He is one of our most 
practical bee-keepers, and his conclusions should be 
received with confidence. Much credit is due those who 
have been so persevering in securing to us these new 
varieties. The ultimate results must be of great good, 
as the future crossing of these different strains will no 
doubt give us one with a combination of superior traits. 



CHAPTER III 

SOURCES OF HONEY. 

In speaking of the sources from which most of our 
honey is obtained, I am naturally limited, in a great de- 
gree, to the consideration of the honey-producing plants 
of our northern latitude. Even within a limited area- 



SOURCES OF HONEY. <9 

the chief yield will be found to be derived from entirely 
dissimilar sources, and I shall therefore speak in general 
terms, of those which have come more especially within 
the range of my own experience. 

SOURCES OF POLLEN. 

Assuming that bees are not to be taken out of their 
winter quarters until about the time that the Soft or 
Ked Maple blossoms (for reasons which will appear here- 
after), I shall devote but little space to the pollen-produc- 
ing plants, which appear before that date. Among these 
early bloomers are Skunk Cabbage (Symplocarpus fmti- 
clus), the Alders, (species of Alnus), and several species 
of Willow. The value of the pollen from these earlier 
blossoms is much diminished now that we feed rye- 
meal as a substitute for pollen. The feeding of rye- 
meal has in its favor the fact that bees can work upon it 
with facility in a sheltered situation, when raw and for- 
bidding weather would prevent their flying any great dis- 
tance in search of pollen. 

The appearance of Soft-Maple blossoms {Acer ru- 
brum), indicates that the season is sufficiently advanced 
to permit the bees to fly with safety. Of course, the date 
will vary in different seasons and in widely separated sec- 
tions of country. 

When the weather is fine, the yield of pollen from this 
Maple is usually bountiful, but as is often the case with 
early blossoms, these are sometimes injured by the frost. 

EARLY HONEY PLANTS. 

Golden Willow (Salix alba, var. vitellina), soon fol- 
lows the Maple, and in favorable weather will afford an 
abundance of honey of a superior quality. 

Gooseberry, Currant, Cherry, Pear, and Peach blossoms 
each contribute a share of both honey and pollen- Sugar 



50 SOURCES OF HONEY. 

Maple (Acer saccharinum), throws out its thousands of 
beautiful clusters with a bounteous yield of tempting 
jnectar. The Dandelion (Taraxacum Dens-leonis), often 
proves valuable in aifording both pollen and honey.* 

About the 20th of May, in this latitude, Apple-blos- 
soms will appear. As these are more abundant than 
other flowers named, and the season having progressed 
considerably, a greater gain may be now expected than at 




Fig. 8.— WHITE CLOVER. 

any previous time. After Apple-blossoms have fallen, 
there is usually an interval of nearly two weeks before 
the appearance of White Clover (Trifolium repens). In 
sections where Wild Cherry (Prunus serotina and P. Vir- 
gimana), and Locust (RoUnia Pseudacacia), abound, 
this deficiency will be partially supplied. Red Raspberry 
and White Clover are found in such abundance in many 
localities, and furnish honey so profusely, that the general 

-.* 1 have known sufficient honey to be gathered from this plant, to be stored in 
the combs, quite extensively, and sealed over. This comes at a time when it le 
a special aid to brood-rearing. 



SOUECES OF HONEY. 



51 



yield will commence with their appearance. The quality 
of honey from both of these sources is considered to be 
very superior. Where the Easpberry grows abundantly, 
bees will be found to frequent it more constantly than 
they do Clover. 

Honey is secreted in the blossoms at all hours, and 
the bees may be seen working upon them very early in the 
morning, and to continue 
the entire day, very often 
not being interrupted by 
quite brisk showers. White 
Clover (fig. 8) remains 
longer in bloom, and re- 
ceives more attention after 
Easpberries disappear. 

Much interest has been 
manifested of late in re- 
gard to Alsike Clover ( Tri- 
folium hybridum, fig. 9). 
I have furnished the seed 
to several farmers, that its 
value might be tested, both 
as a farm crop and as a 
source of honey. The hay 
made from it is fine in 
quality, being a medium 
between the coarse Eed 
Clover and the short White 
Clover. As a honey yield- 
ing plant, it is, in my opm- 




Fig. 9.— AESIKE CLOVER. 



ion, superior to the White Clover. But experiments indi- 
cate that in dry, sandy soils it is not permanent, and will 
not survive the second winter. It seems to be much better 
adapted to moist, heavy clay soils, and there is good au- 
thority for the statement that it will outlive Eed Clover 
in such localities. 



52 



SOUKCES OF HONEY. 



Red Clover probably secretes as much honey as the 
White, but the tube of the corolla being longer, common 
bees appear to be unable to reach it. I have seen a few 
at work upon it, but it appeared to be slow business. The 
Italians work on it sometimes, apparently out of choice, 
and often to good advantage. 

Sorrel (Rumex acetosella), the pest of many farmers, 
is brought under contribution by the bees, and fur- 
nishes pollen in large quantities. 
Morning is the only part of 
the day appropriated to its 
collection. 

Catnip (Nepeta Cataria), 
Motherwort (Leonurus Cardi- 
acd) (fig. 10), and Hoarhound 
(Marrubium vulgare), put forth 
their flowers about the middle 
of June, rich in sweetness, and, 
as with the Raspberry, the bees 
visit them at all hours and in 
nearly all kinds of weather. 
They remain in bloom from 
four to six weeks ; in a few 
instances, 1 have known Cat- 
nip to last twelve weeks, yield- 
ing honey during the whole time. Mr. Quinby says, 
" if there is any plant that I would cultivate especially for 
honey '-i would be this."* Borage has been recommended 
as yielding abundantly, and worthy of cultivation. 
Ox-Eye Daisy, known as White-Weed in many locali- 
ties, (Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum, or Leucanthemum 
vulgare of some botanical works), a showy flower in pas- 
ture and meadow, and worth but little in either, also 
contains some honey. The flower is compound, and 

* My individual experience with these plants, inclines me to give the prefer- 
ence to Motherwort- 




Fig. 10.— MOTHERWORT. 



SOUKCES OF HONEY. 



53 



each little floret secretes so minute a quantity, that the 
task of obtaining it is a slow one. It is only visited 
when more copiously yielding flowers are scarce. Bush 
Honeysuckle {Diervilla triftda), is a particular favorite. 



SINGULAR FATALITY ATTENDANT ON SILK-WEED. 

Milk- weed or Silk-weed (Asclepias Corruti), fig. 11, is 
another honey-yielding perennial, but a singular fatality 




Fig. 11.— MILK-WEED. 

befalls many bees while gathering honey from it. Mr. 
Quinby observed during the period this plant was in 
bloom, that a number of the bees belonging to hives 
not full, were unable to ascend the sides to the comb ; 
there would be sometimes thirty or more at the bot- 
tom in the morning. On searching for the cause, 
he found from one to ten, thin, yellow scales, of a 
long pear-shape, and about the twentieth part of an 
inch long, attached to their feet. At the small end, 
was a blacky thread-like substance^ from a sixteenth 



54 SOURCES OF HONEY. 

to an eighth of an inch in length ; on this stem was 
a glutinous matter, that firmly adhered to each foot 
or claw of the bee, preventing it from climbing the sides 
of the hive. He also found this appendage attached to bees 
clustered outside of full hives, but it appeared to be no 
inconvenience to them. Among the scales of wax, and 
waste matter that accumulate about the swarms to some 
extent, he found a great many of these scales, which the 
bees had worked from their feet. The question then 
arose, were these scales a foreign substance, accidently en- 
tangled in their claws, or was it a natural formation ? It 
was soon decided. From the number of bees carrying it, 
he concluded that if it were the product of any flower, 
it belonged to a species somewhat abundant. On making 
a close examination of all such as were in bloom, he found 
the flowers of the Milk-weed or Silk-weed, sometimes 
holding a dead bee by the foot, secured by this appendage. 
The flower has a most singular structure, which could 
only be explained by means of elaborate magnified en- 
gravings ; suffice it to say that the appendage which 
causes so much trouble to the bees, is the pollen of 
the Silk-weed, which in all the species has a singular 
form. Instead of being, as is the case in most flowers, a 
fine dust, the pollen grains are stuck together in little 
waxy masses or scales, and these are joined in pairs by the 
thread-like appendage above noticed. These masses are, 
in the flower, each lodged in a little pouch with only the 
attachment exposed, and in such a position that the bee, 
in moving about over the flower, can hardly fail to touch 
one of them with its foot and pull it out. Were it not 
for the agency of bees and other insects, the pollen would: 
not be dislodged from these pouches and brought in con- 
tact with the pistil of the flower. Other species of 
Asclepias besides the one mentioned have a similar struc- 
ture, and no doubt aid in the mischief. When I point 
put a loss among bees, I would like to give a remedy, 



SOtTftCES OF HONEY. 



59 



but here I am unable to do so. I am not sure but honey 
enough is obtained by such bees as escape, to counter- 
balance the loss. 

White wood, or Tulip-tree, (Liriodendron TuUpifera), 
yields something eagerly sought for by the bees, but 




Fig. 12.— BASSWOOD, OR LINDEN. 

whether honey or pollen, or both, I have never ascertained, 
as it is very scarce in Montgomery, Greene, and Herkimer 
Counties. Mr. Langstroth speaks of it as "one of the 
greatest honey-producing trees in the world. As its blos- 
soms expand in succession, new swarms will sometimes 
fill their hives from this source alone." 

Basswood (Tilia Americana, fig. 12). This tree is 
common in the forests of many of our States, and no 
doubt stands at the head of the list of honey producers. 
As a shade tree, Basswood, or, as sometimes called, Lin- 



56 SOURCES OF HONEY. 

den, ranks with the finest. It is hardy and bears trans- 
planting better than many other forest trees. This 
stately tree, with its graceful clusters of fragrant flowers, 
adorns village or country grounds, while the soft music 
of the industrious bee, among the branches, is attractive 
to the dullest ear. The honey resources of the country 
might be greatly increased by planting such trees. 

Basswood honey is, without doubt, of the most superior 
quality and flavor. The blossoms are very numerous, 
and though there are occasionally seasons when they yield 
but little, the tree is generally a very reliable source of 
honey. The yield of honey usually continues for about 
ten days. In localities where the altitude varies from 
warm valleys to high hills or mountain ranges, the yield 
will often be extended to two or three weeks. 

The largest yield of honey I have ever known in a 
given time, was from Basswood. I have seen twenty-five 
pounds gathered in one day by a single swarm, and 
larger collections are reported by other parties. Of 
course, such amounts must be secured by the non-swarm- 
ing plan under the most favorable conditions. In 1874 I 
commenced with 100 swarms and did not take any sur- 
plus honey until Basswood blossomed, July 20th. Dur- 
ing the next forty days I secured 10,000 lbs. of surplus, 
and increased the colonies to 119, giving me an average 
of 100 lbs. each, from my old stocks. I mention these 
figures to illustrate the value of this tree for bee-forage. 
I should here explain that I took advantage of the differ- 
ence in altitude, and moved a number of colonies six 
miles to higher ground, where the trees did not come into 
flower for two weeks after they failed in the valley. 

I have never observed such a profuse yield of honey 
from Basswood, as in that season. The flowers seemed 
to be dripping with liquid sweetness, and one had but to 
press them between the fingers to obtain a drop of genuine 
nectar. 



SOURCES OF HONEY. 57 

One could easily be pardoned, in even so matter-of-fact 
a treatise as this, for pausing a moment to contemplate 
thoughtfully these wonders with which our pursuit so 
often brings us in contact, that we fail to appreciate their 
marvellousness. Thousands upon thousands of pounds of 
sweetness are produced by millions of tender blossoms, 
and put into our hands, as it were, by a tiny insect, whose 
life is at the mercy of every passing storm. 

Teasel. — In those sections where the Fuller's Teasel (Dip- 
sacus Fullonum, fig. 13j, is cultivated, the yield of honey is 





Fig. 13.— fuller's teasel. Fig. 14.— wild teasel. 

large and of fine quality. I am indebted to Mr. G. M. Doo- 
little, of Borodino, N. Y., and Mr. N. 1ST. Betsinger, of Mar- 
cellus, N. Y. , for facts in regard to the value of Teasel a? 
a source of honey. It i3 cultivated largely in their vicinity, 
and their bees profit by it to a considerable extent. 

Since becoming familiar with its reputation, I have 
watched the bloom of the Wild Teasel, (Dipsacus sylves- 
tris, fig. 14), but as I never could find the bees upon it, and 
not being informed as to the different species, I could not 
understand why so much value should be placed upon it 
as a honey-yielding blossom. Mr. Doolittle informs me 
that the Wild Teasel, which has a purple blossom, is 
seldom, if ever, visited by the bees, but the cultivated 



58 



SOURCES OF HOHEY. 



Teasel, with a white blossom, is that from which such 
bounteous yields are obtained. I quote from an article 
by Mr. D., in "Gleanings," January, 1878 : "The plant 
is biennial as a rule, although a part of the plants (the 
smaller ones), may not produce heads until the third 



year. 



The ' kings,' as they are com- 



monly called, are heads at the top of the stalks, and com- 
mence to blossom about 
July 10th, continuing 
in bloom about a week 
or ten days, opening first 
in the center of the 
head, blossoming toward 
the tip and base, and 
ending off at the base. 
As soon as the blossoms 
fall off, the heads are 
cut, and cured for the 
purpose of raising the 
nap on cloth. The ' mid- 
dlings/ as they are 
termed, commence to 
blossom when the 
'kings' are about half 
through, and the i but- 
tons ' come last, making 
from 20 to 25 days of bloom from the commencing of the 
( kings ' to the end of the ' buttons.' Bees work on them 
at all hours of the day, and no matter how well Bass- 
wood may yield honey, you will find them at work on the 
Teasel at all times. I have never known the Teasel to 
fail to secrete honey except in 1876. The honey is very 
thin, and much evaporation is required to bring it to the 
consistency of Basswood honey when first gathered." 

Sumach (Rhus glabra, fig. 15), is rich in its quality 
and yield of honey. The shrubs coming into bloom in 




Fig. 15.— SMOOTH SUMACH. 



SOURCES OF HONEY. 59 

succession, the supply is protracted beyond the duration 
of one set of flowers. Mustard {Sinapis nigra), is also a 
great favorite. Its cultivation is remunerative for its 
seed alone, and when we add its value to the bees, there 
seems to be a sufficient inducement to raise it. 

I have now mentioned most of the honey-producing 
plants which bloom before the middle of July. In sec- 
tions where Buckwheat is not raised, these furnish the 
principal supply. 

Other flowers continue to bloom until cold weather. 
Where White Clover is abundant, and the fields are used 
for pasture, it will continue to throw out fresh flowers, 
sometimes, throughout the entire summer, yet the bees 
consume about all they collect, in rearing their brood, 
etc. Thus, it appears, that in some sections, the bees 
have only about six or eight weeks in which to provide 
for winter. 

LATER HONEY PLANTS. 

I will now notice the flowers that appear after the mid- 
dle of July. The Button-bush (Cephalanthus occiden- 
talis) is much frequented for honey ; also tne Melons, 
Cucumbers, Squashes, and Pumpkins. The latter are 
visited only in the morning, and honey is the only thing 
obtained. Notwithstanding the bee is covered with pol- 
len, it is not kneaded into pellets on its legs. It has 
been stated that bees get pollen early in the mornings 
instead of honey. It is not best to always take our word 
about such matters, but examine for yourselves. Take a 
look some warm morning, when the Pumpkins are in 
bloom, and see whether it is honey or pollen of which 
they are in quest. 

Many people seem to think that the vicinity of large 
flower gardens is of great advantage to their bees, but 
these are usually of very little value. Mignonette seems 
\o possess some importance when largely cultivated. 



60 SOURCES OF HOtfEY. 

The Melilot or Sweet-scented Clover, both yellow and 
white, deserves a place in our list. It is found in bloom by 
midsummer, and remains until our latest flowers. Where 
it grows in profusion, as along many of our small streams, 
the supply it furnishes is by no means inconsiderable. 
In color the honey is rather dark, but the flavor is much 
superior to that of Buckwheat honey. 

BUCKWHEAT. 

This honey is considered by many to be of inferior 
quality. Its color, when separated from the comb, re- 
sembles molasses of medium shade. The taste is more 
pungent than that of clover honey ; it is particularly 
prized on that account by some, and disliked by others 
for the same reason. 

In several counties in this State, so little of this 
grain is raised, that the honey can not be found in the 
hive or boxes. But in many places it is the main de- 
pendence, the bees seldom getting more than a winter 
supply from the early flowers. 

In some sections full sets of boxes are often filled from 
Buckwheat after a fine yield of white honey. This adds 
materially to the pecuniary returns from apiaries in such 
localities. The date of sowing Buckwheat varies with 
different farmers. I have passed through districts where 
some fields were out of blossom, while the flowers in others 
were not yet open, and still others at all intermediate 
stages. This protracts the yield from this source for 
several weeks. Although the honey commands a less 
price in market than lighter grades, it is a source of 
much profit. 

In some regions the Golden Rods, (several species of 
Solidago, fig. 16), afford valuable forage, and assist 
largely in replenishing the combs for winter consumption. 
I have frequently observed that bees were working vigor* 



SOURCES OF HONEY. 



61 



ously in early autumn, when it was almost impossible to 

determine whence they were obtaining their supplies. 

This suggests the ^a*^, *, t 

idea that there are 

many minor sources 

not noticeable in 

abundance, which 

the keen scent of 

the bees is quick 

to discover. 

In California, the 
chief reliance seems 
to be the "White 
Sage" (Eurotia Ian- 
ata), of which there 
are immense quan- 
tities. The Cotton 
of the Southern 
States is mentioned 
as valuable. There 
are many plants pe- 
culiar to different 
localities, upon 
which more or less 
dependence can be 
placed. And, even 
in those less favor- 
ed districts where 
no first-class sources 
are found, there will always be a moderate gain from the 
forage of field and forest, which will justify any careful 
person in keeping a moderate number of colonies, as ex- 
perience may dictate. 

HONEY-DEW. 




Fig. 16. — GOLDEN EOD. 



Honey-dew is found in some localities, but personal ex- 



62 SOURCES OF HONEY. 

perience will not permit me to speak positively concern- 
ing it. Yet, during some of our large harvests of honey, 
I could easily have believed that the honey was furnished 
from some hidden source, more abundantly than was pos- 
sible from the blossoms alone. From information gleaned 
from various sources, I am inclined to think that leaves 
may, at times, secrete honey, but it has never been my 
good fortune to discover it, and Mr. Quinby was alike 
unfortunate, during two-score years of close observation. 
It is evidently peculiar to certain localities only. Prof. 
Cook relates an interesting and convincing case of it, 
which he observed in California. 

DO BEES INJURE GRAIN AND FRUIT ? 

Many people contend that bees are an injury to Buck- 
wheat, by taking away the substance that would be form- 
ed into grain. What are the facts ? The flowers open, 
and honey is secreted. If the bee does not gather it, it is 
wasted. Now, what is the difference to the plant, whether 
the honey is lost in this way, or is collected by the bees ? 

If there is any difference, the advantage appears to 
be in favor of collection by the bees, for the reason that 
it thus answers an important end in the economy of na- 
ture, consistent with her provisions in ten thousand dif- 
ferent ways in adapting means to ends. 

Abundant authority may be cited to show that, in- 
stead of being a hindrance to the perfect development of 
grain or fruit, bees are indispensable, in the aid they give 
in fertilization. Those who have only the most super- 
ficial knowledge of plants, are aware that with many, 
some of the flowers possess only stamens, and others 
only pistils, and that the pollen from the staminate blos- 
soms is necessary to fertilize the pistillate. This is done 
in some cases by the wind, which wafts the pollen from 
the staminate to the pistillate flowers, but in the ma* 



SOURCES OF HO^BY. 63 

jority of such, cases, the aid of insects is necessary. In 
the search for honey, the bees visit numerous flowers oi 
the same species only, in one journey (a fact which is 
mentioned by Aristotle), and its body being covered by 
the pollen, it is next to impossible for it not to leave some 
of it in the proper place. 

INJURY TO RIPE FRUIT, 

There is a prevalent opinion that bees do much injury 
to ripe fruit, such as grapes, peaches, plums, etc. It is 
often affirmed that crops of these fruits, especially grapes, 
are measurably destroyed by the bees puncturing the skin, 
and sucking the juices. 

A gentleman, whose letter lies before me, states that he 
does not secure one-twentieth of his grape crop, for this 
reason. 

Mr. Quinby, as well as myself, gave this matter much 
personal attention, from the fact that we were largely in- 
terested in grape culture, as well as bees, having several 
hundred vines under cultivation. Our experience fully 
accorded with the testimony of Mr. Langstroth, and 
other intelligent observers, to the effect that a honey-bee 
never injures sound fruit. In reply to a gentleman who 
complained of the bees, Mr. L. gave the following, as 
among the reasons why the bees could not inflict any ex- 
tensive injury upon his grapes : 

" That as the supplies of honey from the blossoms had 
entirely failed * * * if the bees had been able to help 
themselves to his round grapes they would have entirely 
devoured the fruit of his vines. * * * That the jaws 
of the bee being adapted chiefly to the manipulation of 
wax, were too feeble to enable it readily to puncture the 
skin, even of his most delicate grapes. In reply to these 
arguments, being invited to go to his vines and see the 
depredators in the very act, the result justified my antici- 



64 SOURCES OF HONEY. 

pations. Though many bees were seen banqueting on 
grapes, not one was seen doing any mischief to sound 
fruit. Grapes which were bruised, or the moist stems, 
from which grapes had recently been plucked, were cov- 
ered with bees, while other bees were observed to alight 
upon bunches, which when found, by careful inspection 
to be sound, they left with evident disappointment. 

" Wasps and hornets, which secrete no wax, being fur- 
nished with strong saw-like jaws for cutting the woody 
fibre with which they build their combs, can easily pene- 
trate the skin of the toughest fruits. While the bees, 
therefore, appeared to be comparatively innocent, multi- 
tudes of these depredators were seen helping themselves 
to the best of the grapes. * * * After the mischief 
has been begun by other insects, or wherever a crack or a 
spot of decay is seen, the honey-bee hastens to help it- 
self. * * * In this way they undoubtedly do some 
mischief, but before war is declared against them, let 
every fruit grower inquire, if, on the whole, they are not 
more useful than injurious." 

The honey crop of 1869 being a total failure with us, 
we had ample opportunity to observe if the bees were in- 
clined to commit any unusual depredations upon the pro- 
ducts of our vines, and I must exonerate them from any 
malicious intent or deed. 

It is no uncommon occurrence for bees to frequent 
cider mills in great numbers, attracted by the juice of 
the crushed apples. It does not always appear to be at- 
tendant upon a scarcity of honey, for they often do not 
care anything about it, even when otherwise idle. The 
Hon. Harris Lewis, a prominent agriculturist of this 
county, who makes vinegar largely, has been known to 
stop his cider mill to avoid the great destruction of bees 
incident to the operation of crushing the apples. His 
sense of justice and consideration for the interests of 
others, at the sacrifice of his own convenience, is char* 



SOURCES OF HONEY. 65 

acteristic of a man who deservedly occupies a high position 
among the farmers of our country. 

HOW FAR WILL BEES GO FOR HONEY ? 

The precise distance that bees will fly in search of for. 
age, I am unable to state. Some consider three miles to 
be the extreme limit, while others place it as high as 
twelve miles. The most satisfactory results may be ex- 
pected, if abundant stores can be found within two miles. 
It is evident that they will work more freely upon bios- 
soms at some little distance, than when these are very near 
the apiary. If I were to sow anything with a view to a 
supply of honey, I should prefer that it should not be in 
the immediate vicinity of the hives. 

Their flights are evidently modified by local conditions. 
During the large yield from Bass wood in 1874, already al- 
luded to, as the blossoms failed in the valley, the bees 
continued bringing in the same quality of honey, fol- 
lowing the Basswood day by day, as it opened on the hills, 
until the first week in August, when they still came in 
heavily loaded, but very tired from a long flight. 

I drove to the hights, six miles distant, and found that 
Basswood was there just coming into bloom. I immedi- 
ately moved 48 swarms to this location, and in the follow- 
ing week, these 48 colonies gave me one ton of surplus 
honey, while the 71 swarms left at home, did not secure 
one half that amount, yet they continued working upon 
the same ground during the entire period. 

This is a fine illustration of the advantage of obtain- 
ing forage within a reasonably short distance. I have 
never had direct proof to the effect, yet there is ground 
for the belief that, if honey could not be found nearer, 
bees would fly the distance named, without being gradu- 
ally led along by newly opening blossoms as in the case 
mentioned. 



66 THE APIARY. 

BEST SEASON" EOR HONEY. 

The inquiry is often made, "Which is best for bees, 
a wet or dry season ? " I have studied this point 
very closely, and have found that a medium between the 
two extremes produces the most honey. When farmers 
begin to express fears of a drouth, then is the time, if 
in the season of flowers, that most honey is usually ob- 
tained, but if dry weather is much protracted, the quan- 
tity is greatly diminished. Of the two extremes, a very 
wet season is much the worst. 

This latter is evident from the fact that much rain in- 
jures the honey, by diluting it, as well as preventing the 
bees from gathering as much ; whereas, when the weather 
is moderately dry, the bees are at liberty to work freely, 
and the honey is evaporated, instead of diluted, improv- 
ing the quality, and rendering it much more desirable for 
immediate sealing up. There is no question but the value 
of honey is much affected by these circumstances, unless 
properly cured. The weight of extracted honey will vary 
to the extent of over 1 lb. to the gallon, according to 
the variation in the season. 



CHAPTER I Y. 

THE APIARY. 

THE PREPARATION NEEDED. 

If one proposes to make bee-keeping his life-pursuit, 
he will need very different preliminary instruction from 
one who, as nearly every farmer may well do, proposes to 
follow it as an adjunct to other occupation, or the ama- 
teur, who would keep a few hives for his instruction and 
amusement. To one, especially a young man, who feels a 



THE APIARY. 67 

preference for, and a personal adaptation to, bee-keeping 
as an occupation, tc be followed to the exclusion of all 
others, we would say that he cannot be too thoroughly 
prepared, not only by reading, but by instruction in the 
sciences related to the pursuit, and by practical training. 
In other avocations it is considered necessary to serve 
an apprenticeship in order to fit one to pursue them prof- 
itably, and in no calling are preliminary study and prac- 
tice more important than in bee-keeping as a profession. 
Fortunately for those who would qualify themselves for 
the pursuit, the State Agricultural College, Lansing, 
Mich., offers special advantages. The department of 
Entomology and the Apiary- in that Institution is in 
charge of Prof. A. J. Cook, a scientific Entomologist 
and thorough Apiarian. But the great number, who 
must make bee-keeping a secondary matter, are not in 
need of this thorough preparation, and to these it is hoped 
that this work will prove a sufficient guide. While it 
aims to give the most approved apiarian practice, it is in- 
tended to be so elementary in its teachings as to meet the 
wants of the novice, as well as those who have already 
some experience in bee-keeping, and would learn its most 
profitable methods. 

LOCATION". 

In selecting a site for an apiary, there are many con- 
siderations to be borne in mind, especially if bee-keeping 
is to be the sole business. The question of very greatest 
import is that of resources. Study the subject of the 
best honey-yielding plants and trees, and be sure that you 
locate within reach of some tolerably reliable source. 
Another point of much interest is the general contour of 
the country. To illustrate. I reside in a valley where 
Basswood begins to blossom about the 15th of July. If 
the surrounding country were level, this bloom would last 
but 12 or 15 days, but being at the foot of a hill, where 



68 THE APIARY. 

in a distance of six miles there is a rise of 600 feet, we 
find that hees continue working upon it for twice that 
length of time. 

The same is true of the Apple, the Raspberry, and, in 
fact, all other blossoms that abound ; I find it profitable 
to locate an apiary about three miles up this hill, where 
the bees reach up and down, and thus accomplish even 
better results than when working from the valley. In 
addition to this, I have observed that the same class of 
blossoms yield better on elevated ground, than in lower 
situations. This is a point in favor of choosing a site in 
elevated regiims. This opinion is corroborated by the ex- 
perience of Mr. P. H. Elwood, Stark ville, N. Y., and that 
of others. 

IMMEDIATE SURROUNDINGS. 

A location near ponds, or large bodies of water in- 
volves some loss. Strong winds fatigue the bees when on 
the wing, often causing them to alight m the water, 
whence it is impossible for them to rise again until wafted 
ashore, and then, unless in very warm weather, they are 
often so chilled as to be past recovery. 

If possible, the hives should be sheltered trom cold, 
hea^vy winds. If no natural protection is afforded, a 
close, high board fence should be put up for the purpose. 
The saving of bees will pay the expense. During the 
spring months, the stocks contain fewer bees than at any 
other season. It is then that a large family is important 
to keep the brood warm. One bee is of more value then 
than a dozen in midsummer. When the hive stands in a 
bleak place, the bees returning with heavy loads in a high 
wind, are frequently unable to strike the hive, they are 
blown to the ground, become chilled and die. When 
protected from winds, the hives may front as may be de- 
sired, an east or south exposure is generally preferred. 

In building the board fence mentioned, the nails should 



THE APIARY. 69 

not be driven home firmly, but should be so left that they 
may be easily drawn with a claw-hammer, that more or 
less of the boards may be removed during the hottest 
weather, to permit a freer circulation of air. 

A consideration worthy of mention, is, that the apiary 
be conveniently near the house or workshop, where the 
bee-keeper's eye may be frequently upon it. Although 
swarming may be largely controlled, swarms may occa- 
sionally issue, thus making some attention necessary, and 



Fig. 17.— HIVES UPON ROOFS AT ILION, N. Y. 

it is otherwise important that such attention be quickly 
given. The apiary should be well fenced against the in- 
trusion of farm stock, and should be as secluded as pos- 
sible from all farming operations, as well as not too near 
the highway. 

BEE-KEEPING IN" CITIES AND VILLAGES. 

A limited number of bees can no doubt be kept in our 
large cities, if, as is generally the case, forage can be 
found within a reasonable distance. 

If no plot of ground is available, the hives can be set 
In an upper room, or attic, before an open window. The 



70 THE API ART. 

observatory hive described in another chapter, would be 
desirable in such a situation. It is quite common to set 
the hives upon the roof of a building ; Mr. Muth, of 
Cincinnati, keeps quite a number of colonies upon the 
roof of his store, with excellent success. The illustra- 
tion (fig. 17), shows several colonies arranged upon the 
roof of a piazza and house, in the village of Ilion, N. Y. 

ARRANGEMENT OP THE HIVES. 

Where a large number of hives is to be kept in one 
yard, it is desirable to have them in as compact form as 
practicable, as the movements of the bees can thus be 
more easily observed, and the buildings or rooms occupi- 
ed in the necessary operations, will be more accessible 
from all parts of the apiary. When convenient, I prefer 
arranging the hives in the form of a square. Where there 
are but few colonies, of course their disposition is imma- 
terial. If a small building is erected, as it should be, 
for immediate convenience in practical operations, it 
should be placed at the center of the apiary, or in the 
most accessible locality. 

Fig. 18 shows the arrangement of my own apiary, with 
a tight fence in the rear, and this building in the center. 
The house should be about 8x10 feet, and made per- 
fectly bee-tight. In periods of scarcity, bees are attract- 
ed even by the smallest opening, and will be seen vigor- 
ously at work, endeavoring to gain admission. It is pre- 
ferable to cover the bottom of the house with hydraulic 
cement, instead of ordinary flooring. The door should 
close with a weight or spring, so that it may never be 
left open, unless intentionally. Windows should be 
arranged on opposite sides, to give ample circulation of 
air, when desired, and the sash made movable or hung 
with hinges. Lights of glass reaching the entire length 
of the sash, are best, as in transferring, or like opera- 



THE APIARY. 71 

tions, the bees may be more readily brushed down, than 
when small panes are used. 

For warm weather, close windows will not be comforta- 
ble. Wire-cloth screens may be arranged and hung with 
hinges on the outside. These should be made of stuff at 
least one inch thick, with the wire- cloth nailed upon both 
sides. When bees are being handled inside, and honey is 
scarce, those on the outside will be seen crowding upon 



Fig. 18. — VIEW OF THE AUTHOR'S APIARY. 

the wire-cloth ; if but one thickness of wire-cloth is used, 
the bees inside will feed those upon the outside with the 
honey to which they have access within. Great confusion 
sometimes arises in this way. The thick frame, and 
double wire-cloth fully obviates this difficulty. Tight 
board shutters will be needed to close the windows more 
thoroughly, when desired. 

Convenience should not only be kept in view, but order 
and neatness as well. Nothing adds more to the attrac- 
tiveness of an apiary, than a symmetrical disposition of 
the hives. They should stand in rows in such a manned 



72 THE APIARY. 

that the hives of each alternate row will face the space? 
of the row in front of it. (See fig. 18). 

The different colored hives or roofs, should be inter- 
spersed, so that no two of tha same color come next each 
other. This is particularly important if the hives are 
necessarily placed rather close together. 

DISTANCE BETWEEN HIVES. 

The present improved system of management requires 
that hives should not stand too near each other. There 
should be at least 6 feet between them, and 10 feet would 
be a preferable distance. If hives aie set this distance 
apart, queens are less liable to be lost, when returning to 
the hive after meeting the drones. 

The advantage of plenty of room between the hives, 
is also evident when handling a swarm ; its neighbors will 
not be so likely to be interrupted, and when nsing the 
extractor, it is quite apparent that ample room is essential. 

HIVES SHOULD SET LEVEL. 

In adjusting the pieces of scantling to be used for 
stands (as described in Chap. VI.), it is essential that 
they be perfectly level, at least from side to side. The 
rear end may be slightly higher than the front, if the 
combs run from front to rear, and the combs in the boxes 
run in the same direction.* A quantity of gravel may 



* In this connection, I recall an instance of the occupation of combs in an 
unnatural position, which occurred as follows : I visited an apiary several miles 
from home, for the purpose of feeding, and took with me a number of combs 
containing honey. It being too cold to open the hives, I simply removed the 
packing at the top, and laid the combs flat upon the top of the brood nests, 
placing panels over th^m, and replacing the packing. Upon visiting the apiary 
two weeks later, after the bees had begun gathering honey from apple blossoms, 
I found that several of these combs had been occupied by the queen, there being 
sealed brood upon both the upper and under sides ; honey was also stored on 
both sides. The warm position that this comb occupied, was doubtless the 
cause of the occurrence. 



THE APIARY. 73 

be spread where the hive is to stand, and an accurate 
level obtained by means of a spirit-level. 

Instead of gravel, sawdust has frequently been recom- 
mended, and used with satisfaction by some. Others ob- 
ject to.it from its liability to take fire. Where the bel- 
lows-smoker is used, there is not much force in this objec- 
tion. If clean gravel can be secured, the whole yard may 
be covered to advantage, leaving it highest where the 
hives are to stand. If the gravel is thick enough, and of 
the right kind, it will pack and prevent grass from grow- 
ing. If the ground is kept in grass, that should be kept 
cut short. 

DISADVANTAGE OF HIGH STANDS. 

When bees come in heavily loaded, towards evening, 
or on a chilly day, or are driven in by a sudden shower, 
even if there is no wind, they are very apt to miss the 
hive, and be unable to gain the entrance, if it is placed at 
a distance from the ground. On the other hand, if the 
hive is near the earth, and an alighting board is arranged 
to reach from the ground to the entrance, they can always 
creep, long after they are unable to fly, and can thus usu- 
ally regain the hive, when they can not use their wings. 
If such facilities are afforded, a large number of bees may 
be saved. 

Belonging to different hives, the loss is often imper- 
ceptible, yet the aggregate saving from a large apiary 
would be of much importance. If any evidence is need- 
ed of the truth of this assertion, an examination of the 
ground about the hives, at night, particularly when a 
little chilly, will reveal a much greater loss than is gen- 
erally imagined. 

MARKING THE LOCATION. 

When bees are first set out in spring, or when moved 
to a new home, they invariably mark their location. As 
4 



H THE APIABT. 

they leave the hive, they pause a moment, then rise on 
the wing, and face it, describing a small circle at first, 
but increasing as they recede, until an area of several 
yards has been viewed and marked. After a few excur- 
sions, when surrounding objects have become familiar, 
this precaution is not taken, but they leave in a direct 
line for their destination, returning by their way-marka 
without difficulty. 

MOVING BEES SHORT DISTANCES. 

Very excellent authorities have claimed that bees could 
not be moved less than a mile and a half or two miles, 
without injury, as they would return to their former local- 
ities. Mr. Quinby says : 

" There are a great many people who suppose the bee 
knows its hive by a kind of instinct, or is attracted to- 
wards it, like the steel to the magnet. At least they act 
as if they thought so, as they often move their bees a 
few feet or rods, after the location is thus marked, and 
what is the consequence ? — The stocks are materially in* 
jured, and sometimes entirely ruined by loss of bees. Let 
us notice the cause. As I have stated, the bees have 
marked the location. They leave the hive without any 
precaution, as surrounding objects are familiar. They 
return to their old stand and find no home. If there is 
more than one stock, and their own has been removed 
from four to twenty feet, some of the bees may find a 
hive, but are just as liable to enter the wrong one as the 
right. Probably they would not go over twenty feet, and 
very likely not that, unless the new situation was very 
conspicuous. If a person had but one stock, the loss 
would probably be less, as every bee finding a hive, would 
be sure to be right, and none would be killed, as is gener- 
ally the case, when a few enter a strange hive. Some- 
times a stock will allow strange bees to unite with them, 
but it is seldom, unless a large number enters." 



THE APIARY. 75 

These facts are of value to the beginner, and should be 
carefully observed, until experience dictates what modifi- 
cations are allowable. Modern experiments prove that 
by observing the necessary conditions, bees may be moved 
short distances without detriment. 

I have, in the evening, prepared hives for removal, and 
taken them, before light the next morning, three miles 
away, and was positive that not a bee had escaped from 
the hives. Before noon, quite a number of bees could be 
seen flying around the stands from which the hives had 
been removed. I naturally inferred, that these bees had 
found their way back from the new location. I am now 
fully convinced that I was in error. These, I think, 
were bees that had left the hive, so late the night pre- 
vious, that they were overtaken by darkness, and were 
unable to reach their home. After becoming sufficiently 
warm the next morning, they had returned to find them- 
selves homeless. 

C. C. Van Deusen, of Sprout Brook, N. Y., purchased 
several swarms of a neighbor about half a mile distant, 
and moved them to his own yard, after their lines were 
thoroughly established at home. Upon releasing them, 
he smoked them thoroughly, so that all filled themselves 
completely with honey, and the result was, that the new 
location was marked, and no bees returned to the former 
stands. 

In 1869 we purchased twenty swarms of bees in box 
hives and moved them two miles. We afterwards desired 
to move them half a mile, and did so, but before releasing 
them, transferred them to movable frames. This opera- 
tion so thoroughly confused and demoralized them, that 
this new location was marked, and there was no resulting 
loss. I have never found it necessary to move bees 
shorter distances, yet I see no reason why, with the requi- 
site care and skill in manipulation, they may not be 
moved to as little distance as may be desired, especially, 



76 THE AMAHY. 

if so thoroughly disturbed as in tbe process of trans- 
ferring. If it becomes necessary to change the location 
of hives in the same yard, it may he done by moving the 
hive one or two feet at a time (the distance depending on 
the contiguity of the adjacent hives), and allowing it to 
stand a day or two, each time, before moving again. But 
if the situation of colonies is changed at random, with- 
out some intelligent w*, much loss will inevitably ensue. 

SHADE. 

To determine the precise amount of shade which will 
meet the needs of the entire season, requires some dis- 
crimination. Evergreen Trees, Grape Vines, and differ- 
ent varieties of fruit trees, have each their advocates. I 
have tested the matter very largely, and while I appre- 
ciate the benefit of shelter from the sun in exceedingly 
sultry weather, especially in the middle of the day, I can- 
not recommend any permanent shade to any great extent. 
It is very essential, during the early part of the season, 
that each hive receive the direct rays of the sun during 
the entire day. If hives can be so arranged among de- 
ciduous trees that they may be thus benefited morning 
and evening, the shade at other hours, during extreme 
heat, would be desirable. 

As a rule, if the roof recommended be so adjusted that 
the air can circulate between it and the hive, it will 
afford ample protection. It is my custom, during spring 
months, to remove these roofs each fair day, and replace 
them before the dew falls at evening. 

Oapt. Hetherington, of Cherry Valley, N". Y., appre- 
hending this necessity of warmth, covers the top of the 
cap with sheet iron, and paints it black. This not only 
protects the hive, obviating the need of a roof until 
warmer weather, but being dark, absorbs the rays of the 
sun, which assists materially in warming the interior of 



THE APIARY. 77 

the hive, and stimulates early breeding at a season when 
it is of most importance. 

It is unquestionable that, in the very hottest weather, 
the shade of trees would be very grateful and desirable, 
but, considering the average of cool weather through the 
season, I conceive it to be detrimental rather than other- 
wise. In southern latitudes, shade may be more essential. 

BEE HOUSES. 

Bee houses, as used in times past, have long been con- 
demned as useless and undesirable. When box hives 
were alone used, and the bees were not manipulated as at 
the present day, such houses more nearly met the simpler 
demands of those times ; yet even then, the rays of the 
sun were nearly excluded, with many accompanying dis- 
advantages. 

THE HOUSE APIARY. 

More recently what is known as the House Apiary (fig. 
19), has been devised for movable comb-hives. Mr. Coe, 
of New Jersey, has designed a form of it, which he claims 
to possess much merit. One of these was erected at the 
Centennial Exhibition, and was an object of much inter- 
est to apiarian visitors. It may be of any desired size 
and in shape, square, oblong, hexagonal, or octagonal, as 
may be preferred. A house 9x15 feet will hold 44 hives, 
and one 11x34 will contain 100 hives. 

It is tightly enclosed on all sides, the hives being 
arranged on shelves next the walls inside, the bees enter- 
ing through small openings. It is true that bees may 
be handled inside of these houses, in rainy weather, or 
when they would be liable to rob out of doors. One of 
the benefits claimed is, that swarming may be more easily 
controlled. 

So far as I have investigated the details of construction, 
I find that the shelves holding the hives are attached to 



78 



THE APIABY. 



the sides of the building, thus subjecting the bees to jars 
caused by the disturbance of any part of it, hence I should 
not anticipate so good a degree of success as if the hives 
were disconnected from the building, and each, on its 
own separate stand, resting firmly on the ground. 

The beneficial effects of tne heat received by the 
hives when exposed to the direct rays of the sun, when 
in the open air, must be supplied artificially within. 




Fig. 19.— HOUSE APIARY OF J. H. NELLIS, CANAJOHARIE, N. T. 

For the information of those who desire to use such arti- 
ficial heat, I recall a similar experiment. In 1872, while 
with Mr. Quinby, we demonstrated the fact that we 
might raise the temperature in and about all parts of the 
hives, containing strong swarms, yet the bees would not 
venture to fly, if on reaching the entrance, they found it 
to be cold without. 

The house apiary has been somewhat extensively tested, 
but evidently it has not as yet reached that point where 
it may be pronounced a thorough success. I have not 



THE APIARY. 79 

had sufficient experience to warrant the assumption that 
it may not be very satisfactorily modified and improved, 
but like many other methods, its merits and defici- 
encies can only be developed by time and experiment. I 
favor further trial and investigation. 

WHEN TO PURCHASE BEES. 

Assuming the location to be determined, and all pre- 
liminary arrangements settled, the next important step is, 
to secure the bees with which to stock the apiary. 

After an extended experience in buying bees at differ- 
ent seasons of the year, I shall advise beginners to pur- 
chase them only in spring. Those who feel competent to 
transfer from box-hives to movable combs, should procure 
them before the first yield of honey in their own location. 
The inexperienced will, however, find their initiation into 
bee-culture less perplexing, if able to secure the bees 
in the kind of movable-comb hive they intend to use. 

A marked advantage may be realized by buying bees in 
a section where the season opens earlier than in that to 
which they are to be removed. For instance, fruit blos- 
soms are valuable in stimulating early brood-rearing. Buy 
your bees in a quarter where Apple-trees are going out 
of bloom just as they are opening in your own, and move 
them as nearly at this time as possible. A little research 
on this point will prove advantageous to experienced bee- 
keepers. A little more care must be exercised in moving 
bees at such times, as the combs are heavier with brood 
and honey. 

WHERE TO BUY. 

This consideration depends upon the variableness of 
profitable seasons, and also upon the fact that bees will 
prosper in one locality, and in another at a greater or 
less distance, do very poorly during the same period. 



80 THE APIAEY. 

Other facts in this connection are, that ordinarily, a good 
season will follow a poor one, and that the best swarms 
may generally be found in spring, where the previous 
season was prosperous. The inference is easily drawn, 
that if we purchase good colonies in such a section, and 
take them where the approaching season promises well, 
two essentials will be secured — bees in fine condition and 
the promise of a good yield. 

TRANSPORTATION BENEFICIAL. 

It is generally supposed that it is better to secure bees 
m the immediate vicinity, which is certainly true as re- 
gards labor and expense ; but experience assures me that 
when they are properly transported a long distance, there 
are advantages which offset, partially at least, the extra 
trouble and cost. With us, such colonies invariably work 
better than stocks of equal strength of our own winter- 
ing, standing in the same apiary. I account for this, in 
part, from the fact that being supplied with water dur- 
ing confinement and shipment, the bees uncap and dilute 
their stores of honey, which stimulates the queen to de- 
posit eggs more freely. 

Also, the agitation incident to moving them some dis- 
tance dislodges the moth-worms and the bees may be seen 
endeavoring to throw them, as well as portions of the 
worm galleries, from the hive. They are also evi- 
dently freed from the more minute pests of the hive in 
the same manner. Repeated tests convince me of the 
truth of this assumption. I think this view will yet be 
developed into practice in the ordinary handling of bees, 
so that in the proper time and manner they may be ex- 
cited to more vigorous activity. 

HOW TO SELECT SWARMS. 

For several reasons, I would advise beginners to pur- 
chase swarms at least two years old, especially if to bt 



THE APIARY. 81 

transferred. This operation may be more readily per- 
formed, and they may be transported with less liability 
of breaking the combs, and thereby injuring the bees, 
than if the combs are more new and tender. If such 
colonies have cast swarms the previous year, which is 
usually the case, they will contain a young qusen ; be- 
sides, stocks of this age are very apt to be more popu- 
lous than younger ones. 

If good swarms of the previous season can be found 
in movable comb hives, and are not to be moved a 
long distance, there will, of course, be no objection to 
selecting such. Choose hives with straight combs and 
such as have the most worker comb. The item of the 
utmost importance at this period is, that they shall be 
very populous; this is almost positive proof that most, 
of the other desirable conditions are present. 

Since the marked diminution of foul brood in this 
country, the precautions to avoid introducing it, need 
not be so rigidly observed as was insisted upon in the 
earlier editions of this work. 



COST OF BEES AND FIXTURES. 

The cost of a colony of bees will of course Tary in 
different localities. In New York, the price of a good 
swarm of native bees in a box hive, has been about $5.00, 
at any season of the year. More recently, good swarms 
have been sold for $4.00 in the fall, and $5.00 in the 
spring. This has seemed a fair price when honey realiz- 
ed the better prices that it did a few years ago ; hut with 
the present . reduction in the price of honey, I anticipate 
a corresponding decrease in the cost of bees. 

Those buying from dealers, where the bees are already 
in movable frame hives, with straight worker combs, in 
proper condition, will probably pay $8.00 each, for natives 
and $10. 00 for Italians. Empty hives will cost from $1. 00 



82 THE APIARY. 

to $5.00 each. The implements necessary to property 
manage an apiary, are an Extractor $10.00, Honey- Knife, 
$1.00, Wax-Extractor, $5. 00, Smoker,$1.50, Bee- Veil, 50c. 
There will, naturally, be other minor expenses even in 
a small apiary. It should be borne in mind that the ex- 
pense of fixtures is nearly as much for a half a dozen 
swarms as for an extensive apiary. 

TRANSPORTING BEES. 

In transporting your bees, avoid, if possible, the two 
extremes of very cold, or very warm weather. In the 
latter the combs are so nearly melted, that the weight of 
the honey will bend them, bursting the cells, spilling the 
honey and besmearing the bees. In very cold weather, 
thfl combs are brittle, and easily detached from the sides 
of the hive. 

Have ready some carpet tacks, and pieces of thin 
muslin about half a yard square. Invert the hive, put 
the cloth over, neatly folded and fastened with a tack at 
the corners, and another in the middle of each side. 
Drive the tack *n about two-thirds of its length ; it is 
then convenient to pull out when required. 

If the bees are to be taken some distance, and must 
be confined for several days, the muslin will hardly be 
sufficient, and wire- cloth must be substituted. 

To prepare the movable comb-hive for long journeys, 
put sticks on each side of each comb, in about two places, 
to hold it steady (see directions for transferring), then 
lay on the top of the frames, cross -wise, thin strips to 
hold them in place, and fasten on the honey-board with 
screws.* Turn the hive over, and cover the bottom with 
wire-cloth. With proper care they may be sent by rail- 
road one thousand miles. 



* If the combs are old, and the distance short, the transferring sticks at the 
Sides of the comb may be omitted. 



THE APIARY. 83 

Probably the best mode of conveyance is in a wagon 
with elliptic springs. A wagon without springs is bad, es- 
pecially for young stocks ; yet I have known them to be 
moved safely in this way, with care in packing hay or 
straw under and around them, and careful driving. 

Whatever conveyance is employed, the hive should be 
inverted. The combs will then rest on the top, and are 
less liable to break than when right end up, because in 
the latter case, the whole weight of the combs must come 
upon the fastenings at the top and sides, and these are 
easily broken. When bees are moved, thus inverted, they 
will creep upward ; in stocks partly full, they will often 
nearly all leave the combs, and get upon the covering. 

For several years, we have purchased bees largely, 
bringing them sometimes a distance of 150 miles by rail, 
when the weather was quite warm. At such times, we 
used wire-cloth to confine the bees, which was enough 
larger than the bottom of the hive, to be rounded up, so 
that the bees could go above the combs, and have a freer 
circulation of air. 

If they are to be shut up any length of time, it is often 
beneficial to furnish them with water, by sprinkling it 
through the wire-cloth. They will receive it very greedily. 
Half a gill may be given each swarm two or three times 
each day. Or a piece of sponge may be fastened to the 
wire-cloth, and kept saturated, allowing the bees to take 
as much as they desire. Much care is necessary in mov- 
ing heavy colonies in warm weather. 

In packing hives into a wagon, place them so that the 
combs will stand cross-wise of the wagon-box, as they 
are less liable to break in this position. In a railroad 
car, they should stand so that the combs will be length- 
wise with the car. 

In preparing colonies for transportation, it is frequently 
necessary to work at them during the day, while the bees 
sire flying. All holes in the ton of the hive should be 



84 THE APIARY. 

closed, and if there is a hole in front, and the hive is 
standing near the ground, they may be turned bottom up, 
and a board set slanting from the ground to the entrance, 1 
for the bees to pass in and out. The muslin or wire-cloth 
may then be put on, and the cap, if any, placed over it, 
and the usual roof replaced, until they stop flying at 
night, when the hole at the side should be closed. If 
there is no hole in front, bore one for the purpose. I 
often put up large numbers during the day, and move 
them in the evening or in the following day. 

When the bees are brought to the home apiary, they 
should be smoked to drive them from the wire-cloth, the 
latter removed, and the hive placed upon the stand it is 
to occupy. 

TAKING BEES ON SHARES. 

In managing bees for other parties, as well as in fur- 
nishing them to those who wished to care for them, we 
have usually been governed by the following rule : One 
party furnishes all the bees, and the other does all the 
work. All expenses for new material, etc., are shared 
equally ; and the receipts, including the increase, are 
equally divided. The ownership of the original colonies 
is unchanged. 

FINANCIAL RESULTS. 

This is a topic upon which I shall differ widely from 
many who have represented the interests of bee-keeping 
I desire to say very emphatically, that from a thorough 
knowledge of the business, I must disapprove of the 
position taken by some in their statements as to the ex- 
traordinary returns that may be expected. 

A comparison of bee-keeping with other avocations, 
farming, for instance, will, I think, show a balance of 
profit in favor of the former. Upon an investment of 
$1,000 in bees, I should anticipate, with the same amount 



^HE APIAEY. 85 

of labor, as large an average profit as from $5,000 invested 
in farming lands, at $100, or more, per acre. This 
pursuit, therefore, offers evident inducements to persons 
of moderate means. 

Just what annual percentage from a stated investment 
may be reasonably anticipated, it is impossible to de- 
termine, as the seasons are far from being uniform. I 
shall not encourage beginners to expect an average of 
100% upon their investments. Some have represented 
the prospect as much more alluring than this, but in 
many cases the returns are likely to prove much less 
satisfactory. The results attained by the majority of our 
bee-keepers prove that even my estimate is much too 
high. Nevertheless, I know of no substantial business 
that will pay as well for the capital invested, as this of 
bee-keeping, 

OVEK-STOCKING. 

What number of stocks can be kept in one place ? 
is a question often asked. I shall differ more in opinion 
with some of our best authors in this, than on most other 
points. Mr. Langstroth expresses himself, very confi- 
dently, that over-stocking has never happened in this 
country, and that there is no prospect of it. He gives us, 
on the authority of Mr. Wagner, the number of stocks to 
the square mile in many sections of Europe. I will give 
one or two items. In the Kingdom of Hanover, 141 
stocks are estimated to the square mile. In the 
Province of Attica, in Greece, containing 45 square miles, 
20,000 hives are kept. A Province in Holland contains 
2., 000 colonies per square mile. 

This is, certainly, very good authority for his convic- 
tion, but careful observation and somewhat extended ex- 
perience will not justify me in accepting Mr. Lang- 
stroth's conclusions. 

I have en^GflrorAd t P convince myself that, the large 



86 THE APIARY. 

number of bees kept in and about my own neighborhood, 
accomplish as desirable results as if the territory were 
more sparsely occupied. I am thoroughly satisfied that 
such is not the case. 

In the most productive seasons, and during the most 
ample harvests, the difference is not so perceptible, but 
under less favorable circumstances, the evidence has been 
most convincing. We have here, from four to five hun- 
dred colonies, working on the same ground. Judging 
from the results at a yard six miles away, I estimate that 
if my home apiary of 150 swarms could have the sole 
range of this region, I should realize an increase of, at 
least, one-third in my returns. I must maintain then, 
that there is danger of over-stocking, if we desire to ob- 
tain the largest possible yield. These views were held by 
Mr. Quinby, and were justified by his later experience. 

I do not desire to be understood that bees may not be 
cultivated successfully, even where there are larger num- 
bers than here mentioned, for deficiencies in periods of 
scarcity may be supplied artificially, but I wish to impress 
upon the novice who is selecting a site for his apiary, the 
fact, that the fewer bees in the desired location, the 
better are his prospects. While reducing to practice 
many points upon which he is not well informed, he will 
meet with much less annoyance, if hundreds of swarms 
are not able to take advantage of any undue exposure of 
hives or honey, arising from his inexperienced handling. 

It will always be impossible to know exactly how 
many bees can be profitably kept ; some seasons yield 
bounteously, others only partially, and some, almost none 
at all. 

Whoever begins with excessive numbers, must expect 
to be sometime overtaken with serious disaster. One 
must lay up a store of fortitude, in prosperous times, to 
last him through such seasons of discouragement. 

It is an advantage to keep as large a number as will 



CONTROLLING BEES. 87 

possibly do well in one yard. They may be taken care of 
with much less proportional expense. It would not do to 
hire a man to take charge of every eight or ten hives, 
although the average profit of the few would be much 
greater than with a large number. One man can manage 
100 stocks, except, perhaps, for a few days in the busiest 
part of the season, and the reduction in the expense 
would more than balance the larger profits from the 
smaller apiaries. I would not advise keeping very large 
apiaries, until warranted by experience in their care. 
The resources of a country should also be gradually 
tested. A honey-producing country may be like a graz- 
ing region. One field may pasture ten times as many 
cattle as another, and the same may be true of pasturage 
for bees. 



CHAPTER V. 

CONTROLLING BEES. 
THEIR DISPOSITION". 

Nature has provided the honey-bee with weapons to 
defend its stores, and combativeness sufficient to use 
them when necessary. If bees were powerless to repel an 
enemy, there are a thousand lazy depredators, man not 
excepted, who would prey upon the fruits of their indus- 
try, leaving them to starve. Had it been thus arranged, 
this industrious insect would probably have long since 
become extinct. It behooves us, in view of these charac- 
teristics, to ascertain what are considered as insults. First, 
all quick motions about them, such as running, striking, 
etc., are noticed. If our movements among them are 
slow, cautious, and respectful, we are often allowed to 
pass unmolested. Yet the exhalations from some per- 
sons appear to be very offensive, as they attack some mucb 



88 CONTROLLING BEES. 

sooner than others, though I apprehend there is not so 
great a difference as many suppose.* When an attack is 
made, and a sting follows, the venom thus diffused in the 
air is perceived by others at some distance, who will im- 
mediately approach the scene, and more stings are likely 
to be received. 

The breathing of a person into the hive, or among 
them when clustered outside, is considered in the tribu- 
nals of their insect wisdom, as the greatest indignity. A 
sudden jar, sometimes made by carelessly moving the hive, 
is another. After being once thoroughly irritated in this 
way, they remember it a long time, and are continually 
on the alert ; the moment the hive is touched, they are 
ready to salute a person's face. 

In adjusting the boxes and frames, some of the bees 
are apt to be crushed, or cut in two. Their surviving 
comrades are very liable to remember this, and to retaliate 
as occasion offers. 

Bees never make an attack while in quest of honey, 
or on their return, until they have entered the hive. It 
is only in the hive and in its vicinity, that we may expect 
them to manifest this irascible disposition. 

I must disagree with any one who says that we 
always have warning before being stung. Two-thirds of 
them sting without giving the least intimation. At other 
times, when fully determined on vengeance, they will 
strike the hat, and remain a moment endeavoring to 
effect their object. In this case, one has warning to hold 
down the face to protect it from a second attempt, which 
is quite sure to follow. As they fly horizontally, the 
face held in that position is not so liable to be attacked. 

When they are not so thoroughly angry, they often 

* Persons using liquor or tobacco, are never successful bee-keepers. I have 
in mind, a nervous man, who Is an inveterate smoker, wbose bees are the most 
pugnacious and unmanageable that I ever saw After purchasing and removing 
some of these colonies to my own apiary, the difference in temper was percepti 
ble for a long time. 



CONTROLLING BEES. 89 

approach in merely a threatening attitude, buzzing around 
very provokingly for several minutes in close proximity to 
one's ears and face, apparently to ascertain our intentions. 
If nothing hostile or displeasing is perceived, they will 
often leave ; but should a quick motion, or disagreeable 
breath offend them, the dreaded result is not long delay- 
ed. Too many people are apt to construe these threaten- 
ing manifestations into positive intentions to sting. It 
is always advisable to place the best construction on the 
action of a bee and act accordingly. 

SMOKE, A CONTROLLING AGENT. 

The ability to subdue these insects by the use of smoke 
has been so thoroughly demonstrated that I need say lit- 
tle except as to the mode of applying it. For years Mr. 
Quinby used partially decayed wood, cut in sticks of 
suitable size, the smoke of which, when ignited, could be 
directed to the desired point by blowing with the mouth. 
Eealizing many objections to this process, he expended 
much time and thought in devising some more safe and 
efficient method. He had already used a smoker to be 
held in the mouth, the smoke to be blown among the 
bees wich the breath, but it was unsatisfactory. It was 
made of a tin tube, two inches in diameter, and six 
inches long ; in one end of this, a short tube of wood 
was fitted, and in the other end was a longer piece, to 
hold in the mouth, with a quarter-inch hole bored 
through each. The fuel was ignited and placed inside, 
and the smoke blown in the desired direction. 

QUINBY SMOKEK. 

In 1873, Mr. Quinby gave the matter very particular 
attention, which resulted in the invention of the upright 



90 



CONTROLLING BEES. 



bellows and tube, which has since been known as the 
" Quinby Bellows Smoker." This invention I believe all 
agree to have been original with him. In 1874, it was 
practically improved and offered to the public. 

It has still more recently been much improved in me- 
chanical details, but it is substantially the same in prin- 
ciple, and is, in its present 
condition, as shown in fig. 
20, a popular implement of 
more than ordinary utility, 
and is approved by the bee- 
keeping fraternity general- 
ly. Several bellows smokers, 
differing in some minor de- 
tails of construction, have 
been manufactured for sale, 
but these are based upon 
the same essential principle, 
all having adopted the up- 
right bellows and tube. To 
operate the smoker, light a 
piece of decayed wood, re- 
move the tapering part of 
the tube, put in the wood, 
and replace it. The bellows 

Fig. 20.— IMPROVED QUINBY SMOKER. . , ,, ..-, , , 

is worked with one hand, 
directing the smoke to any point desired. When not in 
immediate use, it may be placed in an upright position, 
thereby continuing the combustion as long as required. 




DOUBLE BLAST QUINBY SMOKER. 



The latest and most valuable improvement in bee- 
smokers is that by which the draft may be changed at 
pleasure (see fig. 21). In the single hot-blast smokers the 
draft passes into the fire tube from the bellows below the 



CONTROLLING BEES. 



91 



fire. This creates too much fire when working the bel- 
lows to force out the smoke ; the air blown with the 
smoke upon the bees is too much heated, and often ac- ^ 
compamed with ashes and sparks. To obviate these de- 
fects the cold-blast smoker was devised, in which the air 
enters the fire- tube from the bellows above the fire only. 
Thus the operator is not able to blow upon the fire di- 
rectly, to start it, or to free the smoker from ashes. 

With the double draft the slide may be shoved so that 
the draft comes below the fire until it is properly started, 
or for clearing out the ashes ; after which the draft may 
be reversed and the air taken 
from above the fire, when it 
will be cool and free from ashes 
and sparks. In the largest 
sized smoker, where the amount 
of fuel is increased, this feature 
is particularly valuable. Prac- 
tical bee-keepers will not be 
slow to see and appreciate the 
advantages of this form of 
smoker. Mr. Quinby had a 
characteristic dislike of parents, 
and in accordance with this, 
he freely gave this valuable aid 
to bee-keepers, without any of 
the restrictions which would ha^e proved a protection 
against piracy, or which would have made it pecuniarily 
profitable. * With this useful ally, one can perform the 
various active operations incident to the management of 
bees, with comparatively little fear of stings. By a judi- 
cious use of smoke, at the right moment, their com- 
bativeness is subdued and their anger turned to SUb- 




Fig. 21.— DOUBLE BLAST 
QUINBY SMOKER. 



* I have been induced by recent developments, to cover certain improvements 
in this Smoker by a patent. 



92 



CONTROLLING BEES. 



mission. Their impulse is, to fill themselves with honey, 
after which they are more peaceable. There are often 
occasions when they will require the repeated use of 
smoke to force them to yield. 

MEANS OF PROTECTION. 

It has been my effort to show that the fear of stings 
should be no hindrance to the pursuit of bee culture ; 
yet there are many who will need further protection to 
insure confidence, especially when handling hybrids. 
l For those who must protect their hands, there is nothing 
better than long rubber gloves. An over-sleeve of cotton 
cloth with an elastic in each end to hold it snugly in 
place, a*t wrist and elbow, will prevent rambling bees 
from making explorations inside of one's sleeve. 



BEE VEIL. 

To' guard the face, a veil of mosquito netting, tarlatan, 
or lace, is sometimes indispensable. A piece a yard and 

one-quarter by three-quarters 
or five-eighths of a yard, 
should be sewed together, 
with an elastic in one end 
to be adjusted over the hat 
crown. Four or five inches 
from the top insert a piece of 
coarse-meshed wire cloth of 
as fine wire as can be obtain- 
ed. This should be about 
6x9 inches. At a suitable 
distance from the bottom at- 
tach a narrow tape to tie 
about the neck, as shown in fig. 22. Stout, black, bobi- 
net lace, answers an excellent purpose, and is thought 
by some to be better for the eyes than the. wire , cloth. A 




Fig. 22.— BEE VEIL. 



CONTROLLING BEES. 93 

number of yeils sliould always be in readiness, not only 
for the use of the apiarian and assistants, but for the 
convenience of visitors who may desire to witness the 
operations. 

SUITABLE DRESS FOR WOMEN. 

As women are becoming more and more interested in 
practical bee-keeping, it may not be amiss to offer a few 
suggestions as to an appropriate dress for the work. 
However out of place, long, clinging skirts may be in a 
kitchen or wash-room, they are doubly so in out-of-door 
employments. 

Many of the operations in the apiary must be performed 
before the dew has dried in the morning, or soon after a 
rain, and a long dress becomes damp and draggled. It 
is also a hindrance to easy and active movements, and as 
the bees are liable to become entangled in the clothing, 
the danger of stings is consequently increased. Every 
woman who wishes to work among bees, should wear a 
dress suitably short, something like what is called the 
"American Costume." Drawers should be made of the 
same material as the dress, tolerably wide, gathered on a 
band at the bottom, and buttoned tight about the ankle. 
With sleeves close at the wrist, and veil and gloves, if 
needed, nothing further can be desired. 

INTEREST DISPELS FEAR. 

Notwithstanding 1 have given considerable space to 
this matter of security from stings, I wish to say that 
whoever has enthusiasm or interest enough to wish to 
become a successful bee-keeper, must soon learn to work 
without fear, and become quite indifferent to special 
means of protection. 

I remember that Mr. Quinby once said of Mr. Lang- 
etroth, on the occasion of their first interview, that he 



94 CONTROLLING BEES. 

showed the most boldness and indifference to stings of 
any man he ever saw, and seldom received any. This 
illustrates the true principle. He was bent on investiga- 
tion and discovery in his favorite field of study, and the 
paltry fear of a few stings found no place in his mind. 
As a natural consequence, the bees took but little notice 
of him ; whereas, if a person passes through the apiary 
expecting an attack, dodging and evading every bee that 
flies near him, the bees are quite likely to become dis- 
pleased and assail him, when he would otherwise have 
escaped their attention. 

REMEDIES FOR STINGS. 

It is difficult to tell which are the best remedies for 
stings. There is so much difference in the effect upon 
different individuals, and upon different parts of the 
body, as well as in the depth a sting reaches, that reme- 
dies effectual in one instance, will be useless in another. 

Ammonia, soda, or salt and soda mixed, and slightly 
moistened, are probably as efficient as anything. Camphor, 
taken internally, seems to possess a virtue when the sting 
is severe enough to cause blotches upon the skin, as well 
as when applied externally. 

When stung in the throat, drinking often of salt and 
water is said to prevent serious consequences. 

Whether any of these remedies are applied or not, it 
is hardly necessary to say that the sting should be re- 
moved as soon as practicable. 

In doing this, it should be observed that as the poison 
sac is yet attached to the sting, it should be extracted in 
such a way as not to force any more of the poison into 
the wound. The sting may often be scraped off with a 
knife-blade, and the part be squeezed a little to force the 
poison out. It is unquestionable that the system becomes 
accustomed to the poison in time, and little annoyance is 
experienced by practical bee-keepers. 



HIVES AND BOXES. 95 

CHAPTEK VI. 

HIVES AND BOXES. 

MOVABLE-COMB HIVE. 

The movable-comb hive was invented by Eev. L. L. 
Langstroth, about 1850. The same idea was developed 
about the same time, but in a less practical form, by 
Dzierzon, the noted German bee-keeper, whose researches 
in the natural history of bees, and practical application 
of the truths he discovered, have won for him the de- 
served appreciation and admiration of all intelligent 
bee-keepers. 

Ml*. Langstroth's invention, however, was of so practi- 
cal a form as to at once command the approbation of all 
investigating minds, and speedily wrought a revolution 
in bee-culture, such as all apiarian history had not before 
recorded. It is, perhaps, fitting that I should here 
express my genuine admiration for, and appreciation of 
the work Mr. Langstroth has done for American bee- 
keepers. In careful, intelligent study, and insight into 
the habits of the honey-bee, the clear perception of the 
best means of adapting the requirements of the apiarian, 
to their natures ; and in the elegant and scholarly style 
in which his ideas have been presented to us, he has no 
superior, and indeed, no equal, in the list of writers on 
bee-culture. Mr. P. H. Elwood, one of the most scholarly 
and educated apiarians of my acquaintance, says of Mr. 
Langstroth's book, that it is one of the most beautifully 
written works that he ever read on any topic whatever. 

CONSTKUCTION AND ADVANTAGES. 

For the benefit of that class of bee-keepers who are yet 
using box hives, and are unfamiliar w5th the construction 



96 HIVES AND BOXES. 

and advantages of movable frames, I will briefly give the 
most important points. Each comb, instead of being 
attached to the top and sides of the hive, is built in a 
frame, so arranged that each can be handled separately. 

The hives are so made that all the combs can be in- 
spected without difficulty. When the bees diminish in 
numbers, the cause can be readily ascertained. 

The exact amount of sealed honey can be seen at a 
glance, and weak colonies strengthened, by exchanging an 
empty comb, for one full of brood and honey, from a 
strong colony. The amount of worker-brood that they 
shall raise may be increased, and the number of drones 
lessened, by substituting worker for drone comb. Swarms 
can be made at pleasure by dividing. The ravages of 
the moth -worm can be detected and prevented. 

These are but a few of the considerations hereafter to 
be presented, but should be sufficient to convince any but 
the most stolid intellect, of the immeasurable superiority 
of hives with movable frames, over the common box-hive. 
Nevertheless, in urging enterprising bee-keepers to 
adopt them, it must be clearly understood that something 
is required beyond the mere substitution of a movable- 
comb hive for the old box. 

INTELLIGENT MANIPULATION NECESSARY. 

Many bee-keepers have been sadly victimized in their 
first efforts at such improvement, by the misrepresenta- 
tions of unscrupulous hive-venders, whose only motive 
was to obtain the fee for using their " patent " hives, and 
then leave the perplexed apiarian to blunder into worse 
dilemmas than before. Many are led to believe that the 
mere use of the hive in question, will insure the success 
which the skilled manager of movable frames is able to 
attain, over the meagre results of the old system. 

A hive is procured, but before building a large number, 



HIVES AKD BOXES. " 97 

the purchaser possibly concludes, wisely, to test it before 
going further. 

A swarm is hived in it, and the grand results awaited. 
By the side of it, stands a box hive, containing a similiar 
swarm, and if the boxes are well arranged, and the 
hive smaller than the other, which is usually the case, 
the chances are that more surplus honey will be stored 
in them, than in those on the movable-comb hive. 

Yory often, too, the combs are not built straight in the 
frames, thus depriving him of the advantages to be gain- 
ed by handling them. The very natural conclusion of 
the experimenter, would be, that he was humbugged, and 
the movable-comb hive was inferior to the box. 

Notwithstanding the fact that most writers think it un- 
necessary to make mention of box hives, the fact that a large 
number of our bee-keepers still pursue the old method 
and use them, seems to me a sufficient reason for recogniz- 
ing them, at least so far as to call their attention to the 
deficiencies in their system, and to point out to them the 
benefits fco be derived from a change made with due study 
and attention. 

Ever since I have been engaged in bee-culture, I have 
been under obligations to these box-hive men. We have 
bought bees largely of them, each spring, to transfer to 
our hives with movable frames, and thus fill up our 
stocks to Italianize, and prepare for the following season's 
operations. 

I might occupy much space in describing many hives 
of much merit, but with an extended knowledge of a very 
large number, I shall class them under but two heads, 
Hanging-Frame and Standing-Frame Hives. 

THE HAKGIHG-FRAME OR LANGSTROTH HIVE. 

In the previous revision of this work, in 1865, Mr. 
Quinby fully recognized the merits of Mr. Langstroth's 
5 



98 HIVES AtfD BOXES. 

invention, and described the modified form of his hive, 
which he used successfully for several years. 

The simplest form is made as follows : 

Cut two pieces 18 3 / 4 inches long, 12 in. wide, of 7 / 8 -in. 
lumber. Eabbet the ends 7 / 8 in. wide, and 3 / 8 in. deep, 
to receive the end pieces. This will allow the corners to 
be nailed from both ways, making it more firm and 
strong. 

Next, cut two pieces 12 3 / 4 inches long, 12 in. wide, 
and same thickness. * In one edge of the ends, cut a rab- 
bet y, in. each way. Nail together with the end pieces 
inside, and the rabbeting at top, to support the frames. 
This will make a box 12x12x17, inside measure. For 
the bottom board cut a piece 18 3 / 4 in. long, 13 3 / 4 in. wide. 
Cut two cleats 13 3 / 4 in. long, and r/ 3 in. square. Nail 
these on each end, with wrought nails, clinching them 
firmly. Cut an entrance in this bottom board, 4 in. 
wide, and s / 8 in. deep, at the front edge, gradually slant- 
ing to the surface, 4 in. back. (See fig. 34). Tor a top, 
cut a board of the same size as the bottom. Nail two 
cleats 12 3 / 4 in. long, l 1 /, in. wide, 7 / 8 in. thick, across it, 
1 in. from the end, and an equal distance from each edge, 
clinching well. In all cleats it is well to bore holes, for 
nails, to avoid splitting. It is a mistake of many writers 
to advise too heavy material for bottom-boards. They 

.jjWWjWs^ snould be made ^t, that they may 
*"*— ■ — ** not add unnecessarily to the weight 

Fiff 23 

iron fob frames. of the hive when handling. Across 

the bottom of the hive in the center 

should be a stick with bent wires, or what is better, a 

cast-iron piece to hold the frames steady, and at proper 

distances apart. This (fig. 23) is held in place with screws. 

For a cap to cover the top and protect the boxes, cut 

two pieces 19 7 / 8 inches long, and wide enough to make suf- 

* Unless otherwise specified all material for hives should be f inch thick. 



HIVES AKD BOXES. 99 

ficient depth to receive the hoxes to he used. Rabbet the 
corners 3 / 8 in. X 7 / e in. in the same manner as the sides 
of the hive. Out two other pieces, same width, and 13 T / 9 
in. long for ends. Rabbet one corner of each of the four 
pieces, 3 / 8 in. each way, so that when nailed together 
fche rabbeting will come on the inside, lower edge. Thi3 
is to fit the top of the hive and hold the cap in place. A 
board 19 7 / 8 Xl4 7 / 8 nailed upon the top completes the cap. 



Fig. 24.— HANGING-FRAME, HIVE AND CAP. 

A handle for the hive and cap, as shown in fig. 24, may 
be made by dropping the ends on a wabble saw, or it may 
be cut with a chisel. 

This is the very simplest form of case for a movable 
frame hive. But it does not meet all the demands of the 
progressive bee-keeper. Yentilation is to be considered. A 
hole 5 X 10 inches may be cut in the center of the bottom- 
board for this purpose. Two sticks, 12 in. long by 1 X l 1 /,, 
with a Y 4 in. rabbet in one corner of each, should be 
nailed across the bottom board at the ends of this hole, 
in which to slide a ventilator. This should. Jbe made of 



100 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



Y 4 in. stuff, and cleated to prevent warping. When it 
is desired to move bees, or to ventilate them in warm 
weather, make a frame the size of the ventilator and cover 
it with wire cloth. One is shown in fig. 34, page 108. 

The rabbeting on which the frames rest may be cut 3 / 4 
inch deep, instead of '/ a in., and a piece of men hoop iron, 
nailed or screwed over it, projecting upwards within 2 / 9 
in. of the top, on which the frames may hang instead. 
There will, in this way, be less bearing, and the frames 
be less firmly fastened by the bees, thus causing less 
jar in handling. 

FRAMES. 

Whatever the size of the frame, there should be but a 
plain rim around the outside. Frames of all sorts and 
fashions have been used and recommended, each with 
some feature designed to meet a special necessity, but the 
simplest form has long been proved the best. There is 
probably no point upon which good bee-keepers differ 
more widely than in regard to the depth of frames. 

Some prefer a frame 15 inches deep, while others make 
them as shallow as six inches. Mr. Bingham uses a 

standing frame of this depth, 
for which he claims superior 
advantages. Mr. Langstroth 
also recommended a low 
frame. I prefer a medium 
between these extremes. 
Frames should be made of 
the best quality of lumber, 
pine to be preferred. A good 
hanging frame is made as 
follows : For the top bar, cut 
a piece IV / 4 inches long, ■/• in. thick, and 7 / 8 in. wide. 
Cut each end down to 1 / i in. thickness, 7 / 8 in. from 
the end. Cut two pieces for the end lT/ e in. long, 




Fig. 25. — HANGING-FRAME. 



HIVES AND BOXES. 101 

7, in. wide, and '/ 4 in. thick. For the bottom, cut a 
piece 16 in. long, 7 / 8 in. wide, and J / 4 in. thick. Nail 
together, making a frame as shown in fig. 25. Two tri- 
angular blocks should be added to the corners to stiffen 
the frame. They should be about V/ % in. on the sides 
next to the frame. Eight of these frames will fill a hive. 
These hives are designed to receive top-boxes only. 

DIVISION-BOARD. 

At any time when a limited number of frames is used, 
the brood chamber should be contracted accordingly. 
For this purpose, a movable N _ m 

division-board is necessary. 
If but one or two frames are 
used for a nucleus, and it is 
desired that they occupy a 
position at the center of the 
hive, a division-board may 
be placed at each side of the 



, m , t t Fig;. 26. — division board. 

combs. To make one, a board fe 

of the required size, with a bar across the top, as shown 

in fig. 26, is all that is needed. Some cut them slightly 

smaller than the hive, and place a piece of rubber or 

leather in a groove around the outside, to fit the sides of 

the hive more completely. 

SIDE-BOXING HIVES. 

The question of side-boxing hives occurs here, as their 
use involves some change in the details of construction. 
Are they desirable ? If honey, rather than increase of 
colonies is the aim, I answer, yes. Where a moderate 
increase is preferred, boxes enough to secure all the sur- 
plus likely to be gathered, may be used upon the top of 
the hive, by placing them two tiers high. But if swarm- 
ing is to be prevented, I consider side-boxes indispensa* 



102 HIVES AND BOXES. 

ble, especially in the best seasons. Many cf our best 
bee-keepers are using side-boxes in connection with the 
hanging-frame hive. This may be done by making the 
sides of the hive movable, and holding the ends in place, 
by a piece of hoop-iron, at top and bottom, across each 
side. The corners may be secured as illustrated, by 
clasps, such as will be described hereafter. (See fig. 37.) 

OBSERVATORY HIVE. 

A very convenient form of observatory hive, for the 
satisfaction of those who wish to observe the operations 




Fig. 27.— OBSERVATORY HIVE. 

oi The bees, without opening the hive, can be made sub- 
stantially as the above, except that the two sides should 
be made with a frame, two inches wide, with a glass 
fitted in the inside, and a door made of two thicknesses 
of thin board, with the grain at right angles to prevent 
warping. ' This door should fit nicelyintheframe.be 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



103 



hung with hinges, and fastened with a small button or 
hook. Figure 27, illustrates this hive with a door 
opened. 

THE NEW QUINBY HIVE. (Fig. 28.) 

It has already been mentioned, that upon the introduc- 
tion of the hanging-frame hive, Mr. Quinby at once 
adopted it, and used it in the form herein described, with 







Fig. 28.— QUINBY HIVE, WITH FRAMES AND BOXES. 

marked success and satisfaction. It is also well known 
that the majority of bee-keepers of the present day are 
using it in some of its forms, with excellent results. 
The late Adam Grimm, of Jefferson, Wis., used a modi- 
fication of it, arranged by himself, and known as the 
Grimm hive, and with it, achieved extraordinary success. 
This is certainly ample proof of the inherent value of 
the hanging-frame. Notwithstanding its acknowledged 
merit, and the results he had attained by its use, .Mr. 
Quinby found, after patient investigation, that there 



104 HIVES AKD BOXES. 

were yet points in which the hanging-frame hive was de- 
ficient, especially when he desired to control swarming. 
After prolonged study and experiment, he invented, about 
the year 1868, the " New Quinby Hive," with standing 
frame, and at the time of his death, in 1875, he had so 
far demonstrated its practicability, and superiority, that 
it was a source of much gratification. 

I designate this as the New Quinby hive, from the 
fact that two other hives have been known as the Quinby 
hive, viz. ; the box-hive recommended in the first edi- 
tion of this book, and the modified form of the Lang- 
stroth, just described. 

The question as to the best size of a hive to meet all 
the requirements of the advanced bee-keeper, cannot, I 
maintain, be answered so well with any other hive. The 
fact is, that with this hive and frame, the size may vary 
from one frame for queen-rearing, to 16 for extracting, or 
include any intermediate number, according to the object 
in view, and in every case, the hive is equally complete 
and perfect. And I claim it to be indisputable, that for 
box and extracted honey, wintering, and indeed, in all 
the facilities it furnishes, the New Quinby hive cannot 
be surpassed by any hive now in use. 

The question may be very properly asked, if this hive 
is all that I claim, why has it not been more generally 
adopted ? Those who are familiar with its history since 
it was first given to the public can readily- divine the 
cause. This, as well as many other meritorious inven- 
tions, has suffered materially in reputation by being sent 
out in a crude, imperfect form, before the details of con- 
struction were sufficiently perfected, to commend it to the 
favor of less patient manipulators. It would be a source 
of deep regret to me, if even a single person should sup- 
pose for a moment, that the new Quinby hive now used 
by J. E. Hetherington with such flattering success is not 
an improvement upon those first constructed over ten 



HIVES AKD BOXES. 



105 



years since. If there be any such, they will do well to 
notice carefully the details of the hive here described, 
which show its latest improvements. I shall make an es- 
pecial effort to describe and illustrate it clearly, for in 
this, as in all points concerned in the revision of this 
work, I desire to carry out fully the principles of the au- 
thor, in showing that it is for the public, and not for the 
sake of personal gain.* 



STANDING FEAME. 

I propose to describe the standing frame used with this 
hive, before the case or exterior ; from the fact that it is 
often used independently 
of the case, which is by 
some considered the pre- 
ferable way. To make this 
frame, cut two pieces for 
ends, ir/ a in. long, r/ a 
in. wide, and l / 9 in. thick. 
Cut the top bar 16 in. 
long, 7 / 8 in. wide, */, in. 
thick, and the bottom bar 
the same length and width, and s / 8 in. thick. Nail 
together as indicated in figure 29, with the top and bot- 
tom strips l / 4 in. from the top and bottom of ends, 
making a frame 16 X 10 1 /, inside measure. Corner blocks 
should be added as in the hanging frame. 

The hook for holding the frame in an upright position 
is made of 3 / 4 -mch hoop-iron. Cut a piece 2 */„ in. long, 
and bend a right angle 3 / 8 in. from one end. In the long 




Fig. 29. — STANDING FRAME. 



* It is well known that Mr. Q. had an extreme aversion to patents, and this, 
as well as many other inventions, was never covered by one. Complaints 
were made during the past year (1878) that a Mr. Miller, of this State, had se- 
cured a patent upon this hive, and was endeavoring to collect a royalty, in some 
sections. I simply call attention to this, to warn any one using this hive, not 
to pay any such unjust claim. 



106 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



end, punch two holes large enough to receive 3 / 4 -in. clout- 
nails. This hook is to be 
nailed on one end of one 
upright piece, so that the 
hook or shorter end, will 
stand directly under the 
center of the end with a 
space of a plump V 16 in. 
between it and the end, 
which gives room to hook 
it under the hoop-iron on 
the bottom board, here- 
after to be explained (fig. 
30). This hook should 
be nailed on before the 
frame is put together. 
0. J. Hetherington makes 
the hook as wide as the 
end of the frame, and 
Mg. 30.— hook on end of FRAME, puts one on each of the 
four corners. This allows the frame to be reversed if 
desired. For construct- 
ing frames, a form (fig. 
31) should be made, by 
the use of which they 
may be rapidly and ac- 
curately put together. 



These panels are used 
at the sides of the frames, 
and the size of the brood- 
nest is determined by the 
number of frames placed 
between them. The sim- 





plest form of a panel Fig. sl-tobm w» 



BUILDING FBAME8. 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



107 



is made of pine, by cutting a board 17 in. long, ll 1 /, 
in. wide, and l / t in. thick, and cleating with two pieces 
ll 1 /, in. long, 3 / 4 in. wide, and */„ in. thick. Use V/ a 
in. clout-nails (fig. 32). A better form of panel is made 
by cutting two pieces 17 in. long, 1 in. wide, and 3 / 4 in. 
thick, and two other pieces 10 y, in. long, same width 
and thickness. In the center of one edge of each of these 
four pieces cut a groove '/ 4 in. wide by x / % in. deep. At 
each end of the two longer pieces, cut away x / % in. deep, 
1 in. back, to receive the end pieces. This will form a 
frame 17 X ll'/a "*• outside. For a panel to fill this frame, 





Fig. '62. 

PANEL FOR SIDE OF FRAMES. 



Fig. 33. 
PANEL FOR SIDE OF FRAMES. 



a board should be cut 15 7 / 8 in. long, 10 7 / 8 in. wide, and 
Y 2 inch thick. Out a rabbet all around this */ a in. wide 
and Y 4 in. deep. Place this in the frame, and nail at 
the corners with iy 2 -in. finishing nails. This gives 1 / a 
in. margin for swelling (fig. 33). This is generally used 
with the flat side next to the combs, yet occasionally it 
will be found very desirable to reverse it when preparing 
bees for winter, as it will give them needed access to the 
heavily filled outside combs. The reason for preferring this 
panel to the first is that it does not vary in width so much 
by swelling and snrinking, and is not so liable to warp. 

SMALL BOTTOM BOAKDS FOE QTTI^BY FRAMES. 

These should be, when finished, 18 3 / 4 in. long, and 15 
in. wide. Cut two nieces 18 3 Ax5, and two others, 5x5. 



108 HIVES AND BOXES. 

At the end of one of these short pieces, cut two entrances, 
in the same manner as heretofore directed. The whole 
width of the piece should be cut away, except 3 / 4 in. in 
the center. Two cleats are needed, 15 in. long, l x / a in. 
square, and two others, the same length, iy 4 X 7 / 8 in. 
Rabbet one corner of each of the last two / 4 in. each 
way, to hold a ventilator. Put the pieces together as in- 
dicated in fig. 34, and nail to the cleats, placing the two 
larger ones at the ends, and the others at the sides of the 
opening for the ventilator, which may be made as hither- 
to described. 

On the upper surface of this bottom-board, s / 8 in. from 
the rear edge, a groove one inch wide and 3 / 3a in. deep, 

should be cut with a 
dado head, or plane. 
Over the front edge of 
this groove nail a strip 




of 1-in. hoop iron, 
projecting 7 / 16 of an 
inch over it, using 
IV -in. clout nails. 

Fig. 34.— SMALL BOTTOM BOARD. ' * _ 

The hook on the 
lower end of the frame hooks under this, and supports 
the frame in an upright position. A piece of inch hoop 
iron should be nailed across the front, 7 / 8 in. from the 
edge, upon which the frames may rest, and under which 
the bees are to pass (fig. 34). Upon this bottom-board, 
the desired number of frames may be set close together 
(there being no space between the frames at the ends), a 
panel placed at each side, and a strong cord tied around 
all. Place a panel upon the top, and you have a com- 
plete hive. 

OUTER CASE NOT ALWAYS ESSENTIAL. 

I have fully demonstrated in my practice, that for box 
ing both side and top. the standing frames may be used 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



1.09 



with perfect success, without either case, or cap of any 
kind, when the boxes are enclosed m a clamp, as hereafter 
indicated. I have operated 100 swarms after this plan, 
even laying aside cases and caps from choice, in warmest 
weather. A good roof, to protect the hive from the 
weather, must be used ; this is shown in fig. 39. For 
protection in cold weather, a simple cap of proper size may 




Fig. 35.—QUINBY FRAMES AND BOXES IN CLAMPS. 

be made. Let it be well put together, with the top pro- 
jecting '/, in. over, on all sides. 

If preferred, this may be placed over the boxes, when 
they are on the top of the frames. 



COMPLETE NEW QUINBT HIVE. 

The complete hive, full size, is made as follows : The 
outer case should be made of 1-in. pine lumber, dressed 
down on both sides to 7 / 8 in. thick. The bottom-board 
is 27V 4 Xl8 7 / 8 in. It should be made of matched boards 



110 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



one-third as wide as the desired length of the bottom- 
board. Let two pieces be 18 7 / 8 in. long, and two others 
7 in. The cleats should be lxl 1 /, in., and 2 in. square, 
respectively, and 27 1 /, in. in length. The ventilator, and 
support for the frames are arranged precisely as in the 
small bottom-board. 

It would be well to omit cutting the channel over 
which the hoop iron projects to support the frames, with- 
in 7 / 8 in. of each edge, which may readily be done when 
using machinery, but if cut with a hand plane, it must 




Fig. 36,— LARGE BOTTOM BOARD, WITH FRAME. 

be cut through, and the space afterwards carefully filled 
with wood or leather. Let the hoop-iron come short also, 
one inch. The entrance should be divided in two parts, 
as directed. Bore two 3 / 8 in. holes, one in the center of 
each end, to receive dowel pins (fig. 36). 

The sides, or front and back, are 27 1 /, in. long, and 18 
in. wide. On the inside corners of the ends cut a rabbet 
3 / 8 in. deep by 7 / 8 in. wile, in which to fit the ends, which 
arel7 7 / 8 Xl8in. 

Both ends and sides should be of matched lumber, as 
they will be less liable to check than if made of one piece. 
Each part should be cleated two inches from each end, 
with cleats 2 in. wide, 7 / 8 thick, and 17 in. long. Nail 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



Ill 



them on even with the bottom, leaving the space of one 
inch at top, to receive the lid. In the center of the bot- 
tom of the end pieces, put in an iron dowel-pin made of 
l / A in. round iron, long enough to reach into the holes in 
the bottom-board. 

The top, or lid, when completed, should be 29 7 / 8 X 20 3 / 4 
in. It is preferable that it consist of three pieces, but 
two will do. Out them 
29 7 / 8 in. long, and so 
that they will make a 
width of 19 in. Two 
pieces 19 in. long, l*/ 4 
in. wide, and 7 / 8 in. thick 
should be nailed flatwise 
on the under side at each 
end. Two other strips 
29 7 / 8 in. long, l 3 / 4 in. 
wide, by 7 / 8 in. thick, are 
to be nailed at the sides, 
which forms the entire 
rim of the lid. The cor- 
ners of the hive are held 
together by an appliance 
designed for the purpose 
by Mr. Quinby, and known as the "Quinby Hive 
Clasp" (fig. 37). It will be found admirable to use on 
any hive, as nailing is avoided, and strength and solidity 
secured. At the same time hives can be readily taken 
apart for examination or to pack away when not in use. 

With the required number of frames in the center, and 
space for boxes at sides and top, the hive is now ready to 
set up (fig. 38). 

POSITION OF THE FRAMES. ■;. 

The question often arises as to whether the frames 
shouldstand at right angles to, or parallel with the front 




Fig. 37.— QUINBY HIVE CLASP. 



112 



HIVES AtfD BOXES. 



of the hive. The preference of most of our leading bee- 
keepers seems to be to have them run from front to rear, 
yet there are good arguments in favor of the other direc- 
tion. The bees must, of necessity, pass more readily into 
side boxes with frames from side to side, and the boxes 
will also receive more uniform warmth from the brood- 
chamber. Several very practical hives are constructed in 




Fig. 38. — QUINBT HIVE, WITH ROOF. 

this manner, yet if the frames are short, it will take about 
one-third more in number to fill the same space, thus in- 
creasing the labor when much handling is to be done. 
Yet, all points well considered, I prefer them the other 
way. 

STANDS FOR HIVES. 

The question of stands has been productive of almost 
as much discussion as that of hives. Every form has been 
advocated, from those elevated several -feet, to those rest- 
ing directly on the ground ; some even going so far as to 
set their hives close to the earth, without cleats under the 
bottom-board, and in warm, dry weather, even removing 



HIVES AND BOXES. 113 

that, claiming that the cool ground assisted in lowering 
the temperature of the hive, which is undoubtedly true. 
As is almost always the case, some good reasons may be 
presented in favor of each practice. After due experi- 
ence, I find nothing better than simple pieces of 4x4 
scantling, the same length as the cleats of the bottom- 
board. One of these at front and rear of each hive, will 
make as good a stand as can be desired. 

ALIGHTING BOARDS. 

A board one foot wide and as long as the width of the 
hive, bevelled on one edge, so as to fit snugly below the 
entrance, and slanting to the ground, makes a good 
alighting board. It may be hooked to the bottom-board, 
or a wooden pin may be driven into the ground at the 
lower edge. Some practical means of assisting the bees 
to gain the entrance is very essential. (See fig. 38.) 

Many extend the bottom-board a few inches in front 
for this purpose, but I do not regard it with favor, as it 
occupies more room in winter quarters, and in transpor- 
tation. It is likewise less convenient to handle. 

ROOFS. 

A good roof is an absolute necessity. The material 
should be of good quality. There are two forms of roof 
which I find suitable 
and convenient. The 
size should vary ac- 
cording to the size of 
the hive, and should 
project over all sides, 
at least three inches. ^ 39 - ROOF *°* H ™ 

If made according to fig. 38, the pieces on which the 
boards rest to give the pitch should be just far enough 




114 HIVES AND BOXES. 

apart to set oyer each end of the hive. The lumber 
should be 7 / 8 in. thick. 

The second form may be made of y a in. boards, fig. 39. 
In putting roofs together wherever one piece joins an- 
other, they should be first painted, and when finished, 
should receive a good coat of paint, and as often after aa 
may be needed. 

PAINTING HIVES. 

The principal reason why hives should be painted is, 
that it gives a cheerful and tidy appearance to the apiary. 
If hives are well painted it should induce those who are 
operating with them to handle them with more care. 
Paint will also assist in preserving hives when exposed to 
the weather. Nevertheless, painting has its manifest dis- 
advantages. I have always kept both painted and un- 
painted hives in my apiary, and am fully convinced that 
the closing of the pores of the wood is frequently very 
detrimental. I am of the opinion that the rays of the 
sun are not so readily absorbed, and that moisture is re- 
tained, which, without paint, will pass off through the 
pores of the wood, leaving the interior of the hive in a 
much more wholesome condition. 

In this as in all kindred matters the bee-keeper must 
make his own experiments, and form his own conclusions. 
There is less objection to painting the standing-frame 
hive than some others, as the case or top may at any time 
be removed without disturbing the brood-nest, and the 
inside thoroughly warmed and dried ; also from the con- 
struction of the case there is a better opportunity for the 
moisture to escape, than where the parts are firmly nailed 
together. Hives should always be painted as long before 
using as possible,, to free them from any odor, objection- 
able to the bees, and they should be in light colors. 

In view of the frequent exchange of hives in the same 
apiary, I would suggest that they be painted of some uni- 



HIVES AND BOXES. 115 

form shade ; and the desired variation in color, which 
assists the bee in identifying the spot can be secured by 
different colored roofs, which need not be changed. 

ACCUEACY ESSENTIAL. 

In concluding this topic, let me urge that whatever the 
form of hive to be used, they be most thoroughly made. 
It will be noticed that in the dimensions of the New 
Quinby hive, figures are given as closely as l / sa inch. At 
first thought, these may seem too minute points for the 
average bee-keeper to observe. But let me say that this 
may prove the initial lesson in the necessity for attention 
to minor details, for it is unquestionable that success in 
bee-keeping depends upon habits of careful attention to 
little things. Begin then with thoroughly, and accurately 
made hives. All hives in the same apiary should be pre- 
cisely alike, so that all parts are interchangeable. One of 
the preeminent merits of the movable-comb hive, is in 
this facility for exchanging combs of honey and brood, 
for the purpose of equalizing strong and weak colonies. 

The most extensive apiarian of this country, J. E. 
Hetherington, is using 850 of the New Quinby hives, and 
all are manufactured with admirable accuracy. It is not 
strange that with this disposition and ability for perfect 
mechanical work in the construction of his hives and 
innumerable fixtures, he should reap noticeable success 
in his favorite pursuit. 

Eeliable dealers will often furnish bee-hive materials, 
accurately cut, at much lower rates than a person with 
less mechanical facilities can prepare them for himself. 

HONEY BOXES. 

Three important considerations are apparent in deter- 
mining the kind of box to be used. First, that it is 
sufficiently practical to meet the wants of the bee-keeper ; 



116 HIVEB AND BOXES. 

second, it must in form and convenience meet the de- 
mands of the dealer ; and, third, that it present an at- 
tractive appearance to the consumer. As there are many- 
forms equally practical for the producer, it remains to 
inquire what the market demands. This question will 
be answered variously in different markets. 

In New York City, all styles can be sold, from the large 
wooden box on which tare is allowed, to the dainty one- 
comb section box now becoming so popular. If a home 
trade, or local market is to be consulted, a very different 
box, may, in most cases, be used. Every bee-keeper will 
decide these questions according to the demand. What- 
ever the form designed for the grocery trade, it must be 
one that can be handled without bruising the combs, or 
injuring the capping, rendering it untidy, and soiling 
everything with which it comes in contact. The honey 
trade has already been much injured by the use of an un- 
suitable box. 

SECTION-FKAMES OBJECTIONABLE. 

For the past few years, section-frames as used by 
several leading bee-keepers, have been sold largely 
through the Mohawk Valley. I have watched the re- 
sult with much interest. These frames, holding about 
a pound and a half each, are arranged side by side in 
tows of 8 or 10, with a glass at the two outer sides. 
There being no separators between them, the combs are 
not built true in each frame, but are often attached at 
the edges to the different frames. In handling and de- 
livering them, the sides are necessarily exposed, and 
easily bruised ; and in retailing, the sections are broken 
apart, which frequently involves breaking the cells, even 
when the combs are straight, thus presenting some very 
objectionable features to the dealer and consumer. 

I have seen honey offered for sale in this shape, when it 
was necessary to set the frames in a shallow dish to catch 



hives a:nt> boxes. 117 

the drainage, and any one can easily imagine its sticky, 
unattractive condition. A customer will often take a 
number of smaller bosses, in spite of the extra glass, 
rather than one large one, in order to avoid the leakage 
caused by removing one comb at a time, as wanted. 

It also is open to the very serious objection of attract- 
ing marauding bees, as the season of the year precludes 
their being otherwise busy. I have known grocers to be 
so seriously annoyed in this way as to be obliged to close 
their stores. It is very difficult to sell honey to parties 
who have handled it in such an undesirable shape. 

This is a matter of importance. I am not speaking 
from limited knowledge, but from extensive observation. 
We must look well to the causes that operate against the 
sale of honey. 

tWO-COMB BOXES. 

Very many forms of two-comb boxes have been in use 
for a long time, with more or less desirable features. I 
shall describe but one, which recent experience commends 
as exceedingly practicable. In describing this box, I shall 
consider the size to be used on the Quinby hive, and 
weighing 5 lbs. when filled. 

The top and bottom are made of pine, */ 4 in. thick, 6*/ 4 in. 
long, by 4 x / 4 in. wide. These are designed to set at right 
angles to the frames, both at top and sides. 
Three V/ s in. holes are made in the bottom. 
The posts at each corner are 3 / 8 in. square, 
and 5 in. high. This constitutes the entire 
wood-work of the box. When nailed to- 
gether, the outside of the posts should stand 
~$ig m 40. x / 8 in. in from the corner, so that when 
tin fob cor- packed closely together, there will be less 
danger of breakage. The glass is held in place 
by tins, driven diagonally through the center of the post, 
and clinched, (fig. 40). It will be seen that these tins 




118 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



allow the glass to be taken from the sides of the box and 
returned, even when the box is filled with honey. Glass 
for the sides is 5 X 6 inches. If desired to use only top 
boxes, both end-glasses may be alike, and cut 4x5 inches. 
In practice, it will be found that boxes to be used at 
sides and top, should be exactly alike, as at times it be- 
comes necessary to place those that are partly filled at the 
sides, on the top to be finished, and vice versa ; hence 
all boxes should have both end and bottom entrance. 
For this purpose, let one end-glass be cut 2x5 in., 
and secured at top and bottom with glue. This leaves 
a space of over x / % in. at each side, for an entrance, when 




Fig. 41a.— two-comb box. 



Fig. 416.— HONEY BOARD. 



placed at the sides of the combs, and permits a passage 
from box to box, when these ends are placed together on 
the top. Guides of clean white comb are indispensable. 
Holes should be made for nails to prevent splitting. 
(Fig 41, a.) 

BLOCK FOE SETTING UP BOXES. 

For this, use 1-inch basswood lumber. It is a box 5 
in. high and */ 4 in. smaller each way inside, than the out- 
side measure of the honey-box. Before nailing the bot- 
tom on the block, saw 3 / 8 in. from each inside corner out- 
wardly, on an exact mitre. This is to receive the tins 
that are in the posts. Slight steel-wire springs should 
be used to hold each post in position until nailed. On the 
upper edge of each of the four sides, nail a narrow, thin 
strip y a in. from the inside edge, to hold the bottom of the 



HIVES AKD BOXES. 



119 



box in exact position over the posts, for nailing. This 
completes the block. The inside of one corner of such a 
block is shown in fig. 42. Now, to put the box together, 
place a post in each corner of the block, lay the bottom 
in place, and nail each corner with inch-finishing nails. 
If the springs for holding the posts are properly arrang- 
ed, the four posts may be drawn from the block, by the 
bottom. To complete the box, an arrangement is used 
like fig. 43. To make this, take a piece of inch board a 
foot long, and 8 in. wide, for a base. Near one corner 
make a standard 5 5 / 16 in. high, of two pieces 1 in. thick, 
4 in. and 2 in. wide respectively. Nail them together at 



) 



® 




Fig. 42. 

BLOCK FOB SETTING UP BOXES. 



Fig. 43. 

STANDARD FOR TOPS OF 



right angles, after having cut a slot 1 / s in. deep at the 
bottom, to receive the bottom of the box. Nail thin 
strips on the top, the same as on the block. In the center 
of ihe corner, bore an inch hole to receive the tin in the 
post. Lay the box as taken from the block, against this 
corner, bottom down, place the top on it, and nail each 
corner. At this point it will be found that the top does 
not rest snugly against the ends of the posts. It is left 
'/„ in. away, to allow the glass to be more readily put in 
place. This should now be done, and the glass secured 
by the tins, bent over each way. The guide combs 
should be put in before the glass is in place. After all 
the glass is in, except the narrow end, place the box on 
a smooth, solid metal surface, and drive the nails snug. 



120 HIVES AND BOXES. « 

Now, put in the narroAv piece with glue, and the box is 
complete. If the work is properly done in all its parts, 
this makes a neat, strong, and desirable box. 

A honey-board */ 4 in. thick is placed between the 
boxes and the top of the frames, having holes bored in it, 
to correspond to the holes in the boxes. (See fig. 41 b. ) 
If used at the sides, in the large case, they may be ar- 
ranged in two rows upon a board the length of the frame, 
and as wide as the length of the box, with the open end 
next to the comb. 

When the Quinby frames are used without the case, 
these boxes may be placed at both top and side, by en- 
closing them in a thin case to exclude the light. 

SINGLE COMB, OR SECTION BOXES. 

The most popular box of the day is the one-comb, or 
section-box, varying in size from 4 x 4 to 6x7; the size 
most largely used, taking 5x6 glass, and known as the 
" Prize Box," being 5*/ 4 X 6*/ 4 in. That which I prefer is 
5 1 /, in. outside measure, taking glass 5x5. In preferring 
a box of these dimensions, I do not lose sight of the fact 
that there is a disadvantage in it. Those using a still 
smaller size should notice these objections. It is well es- 
tablished, that the larger the boxes, the more honey will 
be proportionally secured. As a rule, I should expect to 
have as many 5x6 boxes filled in a given time as if they 
were 5x5. If this be true, we who use the smaller boxes, 
are losing more in amount than we shall gain in extra 
prices. The same idea has a bearing upon the thickness 
of the box. An addition of 1 / 8 in. to the thickness of a 
comb would increase the weight very materially, yet it 
would be filled with very little more labor to the bees, and 
finished, when fresh boxes added would not be occupied. 
I have used sections varying in width from l 3 / 4 in. to 2 1 /, 
oj., but have adopted one 2 in. wide, as best suited to my 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



121 




purpose. One cause of this preference is, that as they 
are ordinarily filled, I can assort them, in packing for 
market, in cases of 3, 6, and 12 boxes each, and make 
them net weights of 5, 10, and 20 lbs. to the case. With 
me, this is a desirable point. Furthermore, these smaller 
combs are less liable to break down during transportation 
than larger and heavier ones. 

CONSTRUCTION OF SECTION BOX. 

This size may be made by cutting two pieces 1 / B in. 

thick, 5 x / 4 in. long, and 2 in. wide ; and two more */ 4 in. 

thick, 5 in. long, and l 3 / 4 in. wide. 

This will make a box 5 1 /, in. square, 

(fig. 45). It should be nailed together 

Fig. 44. with 3 / 4 -inch cigar-box nails. The 

TIN POINT FOB HOLD- l / fa gpace Qn each gide Q f the narrow 
ING GLASS. '. . , . ,, , , . , . 

piece is to receive the glass which is 

fastened with tin points, cut for the purpose (fig. 44), 

driven in the wood, 

and bent down over 

the edge ox the glass. 

These tin points 

may either be driven 

in, and bent down 

before the boxes are 

filled, or left until 

afterwards, if pre- M* tt-oonm bo™. 

ferred. There is something to recommend each method. 
It is impracticable to require the 
bees to fill the sections after they 
are glassed. In nailing section^ 
boxes together, it will be conve- 
nient to use a form for the pur- 
pose. By its use each piece is 
held in its proper position, and 

the boxes put together very rapidly (fig. 46). 





Fig. 46. — FORM FOB MAKING 
SECTION 



6 



122 



HIVES AND BOXES. 



GUIDE COMBS. 

Guides of nice, white comb should be glued in the top 
of each box, to induce the bees to begin work, as well as 
to secure straight combs. I find nothing better for thi3 
purpose than white glue. Drone comb is preferable to 
worker comb for guides, from the fact that the bees are 
more apt to store pollen in worker comb. This is objec- 
tionable in itself, and also moth- worms are more likely to 
infest boxes in which pollen is found. Worker comb, 
however, usually gives the honey a finer appearance. 




SEPARATORS. 

The boxes should be arranged in a case, or clamp, with 
separators or panels between them, to insure the accuracy 
of the combs, so that they may be glassed readily, after 
being filled. These separators may be 
of tin or wood, as preferred. I have 
used the one I will now describe with 
success. Cut a piece of 3 / 16 -in. board V f 
in. smaller than the inside measure of 
the box. In each end, a saw-kerf 
should be cut 3 / 8 in. deep, with a very 
thm saw. Cut two strips of tin, scant 
5 l / 4 in. long and 3 / 8 in. wide. Fasten 
these in the saw-kerfs, letting the ends project equally 
beyond the edges of the panel. Attach separator to box in 
such a manner that the apertures will be equal at all 
sides (fig. 47). Only one is used on each box. A cheaper 
panel, which involves less labor, and works equally well, 
may be made to reach the width of the clamp, covering 
two boxes. The length of the panel should be equal to 
the width of two boxes, and its width should correspond 
to their hight. It should be '/ l6 m. thick. For an open- 
ing for the bees to pass from box to box, cut aw;iv th« 
*>anel, as shown in fig. 48. The aperture should not «* 



Fig. 47. 

SEPARATOR. 



HIVES AKB BOXES. 



123 




Fig. 48.— SEPARATOR. 



more than 8 / 8 in., measuring from the inside edge of the 
box. It will be seen that with this arrangement the bees 
are able to pass in, on but two sides of the panel. This 
is considered by many to present some advantages. With 
this panel, each clamp will contain but 14 boxes, while 
with the preceding one it will hold 16 boxes. I prefer 
the latter separator, as it 
enlarges the entrance by 
spreading the boxes, and 
I do not consider */ 4 in. 
between the boxes an am- 
ple entrance. It will be 
seen that by making the 
panels 3 / Jfl in. thick, it gives an opening of */ 16 in. 
Many of our best bee-keepers use only a l / 4 in. entrance, 
and I should not speak so positively, were it not that I 
have tested it very thoroughly and proved the superiority 
of the larger passage. I have arranged the width of box, 
and separators, with reference to the use of the clamp, at 
either top or sides, by placing the guides in proper position. 

THE CLAMP. 

This is made by nailing two sides and one end of the 

right size, sub- 
stantially, and a 
strip 7 / 6 in. deep 
across the bottom 
of the other end. 
The hight should 
be the same aa 
that of the boxes. 
Nail a strip o\ 
1-mch hoop-iron 
lengthwise at each 
edge of the bot- 
tom, and parallel with them ; at the center, a piece of 




Fig. 49.— EMPTY CLAMP. 



124 



HIVES AffD BOXES. 




1-in. band-iron should be secured at each end with screws 
The boxes are to rest upon these irons. A movable piece 

of board should fit the 
incomplete end, to be 
held in place by two 
hooks (fig. 49). The 
boxes should be in two 
rows, with 7 or 8 in 
each row, according to 
the panel or separator 
used (fig. 50). A panel 
as used at the sides oi 

Fig. 50.-CLAMP TILLED WITH BOXES. ^ frames may ^ 

placed over the top of the clamp, and secured by hooks. 

This manner of arranging boxes in clamps will be found 

serviceable in many ways. «^ 

The boxes may be prepared 

in the winter and packed in 

them, where they will not be 

exposed to the light, or in 

danger of being soiled. When 

ready to put upon the hives, 

they are much more expedi- 
tiously handled than the large 

two-comb boxes, which must be adjusted one by one. 

Boxes at the outside, but partially filled, may be ex- 

_ i changed with those 

at the center, when 
all will be com- 
pleted at nearly 
the same time. 
When filled, a large 
portion may be 

kept in the clamps, free from dirt and dust, until ready 

to prepare for market. Side boxes are used by some m 

the hangmg-frame hive, by placing them in a frame, as 




Fig. 51. 

FRAME CONTAINING SIX BOXES. 




52. — FRAME CONTAINING THREE BOXES. 



TKAKSFEKIOTG. 125 

shown in fig. 51, and suspending them at the outside of 
the brood-combs. Others arrange them in a frame, like 
fig. 52, and suspend them - in a clamp on the top. • 



CHAPTER VII. 
TRANSFERRING. 



The process of transferring combs from a box-hive to 
movable frames appears about as formidable to a novice 
as any of the operations of the apiary. But many ob- 
stacles dwindle, and become comparatively insignificant 
when boldly approached, so a little resolution soon 
shows the timid apiarian that this is not nearly so serious 
an undertaking as it appears to be. 

ADVANTAGES. 

The advantages to be gained do not lie solely in the ex- 
change of a box-hive, for the convenience of movable 
combs, although that is, of course, the primary object. 
With the exception of the use of comb foundation, there 
is probably no other way of securing straight, even worker- 
combs so satisfactorily as by transferring. The control 
it gives over the production of useless drones by the re- 
jection of drone-comb is an item of signal importance. 
The moth- worm may be readily dislodged from any por- 
tion of the hives, and combs that are too old, or other- 
wise objectionable, may be discarded. The mere fact of 
the change alone often seems to impel the bees to work 
with greater energy and vigor. By purchasing bees in 
box-hives, and transferring to movable frames, an apiary 
can usually be stocked at less expense than if the bees are 
bought already in movable combs. 



126 



TRANSFERRING. 



TIME TO TRANSFER. 

Experience indicates that there is no better time for 
transferring than just as apple-trees begin to blossom. 
The benefits derived from the operation, as mentioned 
above, show that a period when there is the least honey 
and brood in the combs is naturally the most desirable. 
As the bees are beginning to gather honey, they are less 
liable to rob, and the combs are more readily repaired and 
fastened in the frames. It is practicable at any time when 
honey is being collected. But the greater the quantity of 
honey and brood present, the more care is required in the 
process. 

PRELIMINARIES. 

Have the following articles in readiness : A transfer- 
ring board, about the size of the frame, with cleats 2 in. 
square under each end. Grooves x / a in. wide and 1 / A in. 

deep, should be 
made at intervals 
of about 2 inches 
across the board. 
Cushion the sur- 
faces between 
these grooves by 
tacking on sev- 
Fig. 53.-TBANSFERRING board. era i thicknesses 

of cloth, to prevent injury to the brood when the comb 
is laid upon it (fig. 53). Transferring sticks for holding 
the combs in place 

~~ 1 




should be */ 4 in. 
square and 3 / 8 in. 
longer than the 
depth of the frame. 



Fig. 54. — TRANSFERRING STICKS. 

Fasten two sticks together at one end 



with a piece of fine, annealed wire, long enough to bring 
them about one inch apart. Attach a piece of wire to 
the other end of one of these sticks, leaving one end of 



TRANSFERRING. 127 

the wire loose (fig. 54). In this way the sticks are in 
pairs ready for use. 

A smoker, a long, sharp, thin-bladed knife, a chisel, an 
axe or hatchet, a small common hand-saw, a small wing, 
and a dish of water, will complete the outfit. 

PROCESS. 

The operation should be performed in a room with all 
the windows but one darkened. The hive to which the 
bees are to be transferred should be placed under this 
window in such a position that the bees may be readily 
brushed into it at the close of the operation. 

After smoking the bees slightly, turn the hive bottom 
up and place an empty box over it the same size as the 
hive. By tapping the hive gently, most of the bees will 
leave it and enter the box above. When most of the bees 
are in the box, place it upon the old stand, raising it a 
little in front for the passage of the bees, and remove the 
hive containing the combs to the room selected. Place 
the hive bottom up on a solid block, or other support, 
about two feet high. Saw the combs and cross-sticks 
loose from the side, or sides, you desire to remove. 

If the combs stand parallel with the sides, it will often 
only be necessary to remove one side, but if they are 
diagonal two sides will need to be taken off. If the grain 
of the wood runs up and down, split the sides in several 
places and take out the pieces separately, but if the grain 
runs across, pry them off with a chisel. During all opera- 
tions use care not to crush any bees remaining in the hive. 
Upon a table or bench near by, place the transferring- 
board. Now, with the knife, remove the outside combs, 
brush off the bees with a wing and set them one side until 
you come to one containing brood. Place this upon the 
board described, so that it will occupy the same position 
as it did in the hive, or if, as is sometimes the case, it 



128 



TEAKSFEEKING. 



will cut to better advantage by turning it half way round, 
bringing the top to the end of the frame, this is allowable. 
Place the frame over the comb in such a manner as to 
bring the brood as near the top and center of frame as 
possible, as this is the warmest position in the hive. Out 
the comb to fit snugly in this positon. If the comb is not 
large enough to fill the frame, use from the combs first 
removed to fill up with. Push the free end of the trans- 
ferring sticks through the grooves where the combs 
need support, and fasten to the other end by winding the 
end of the wire tightly around it, which will hold the 
comb firmly in place. Use a sufficient number of sticks 








J* 


■Nil 








:-;V ; :. ■ 


1 



a Fig. 55. — TRANSFERRED COMBS. ° 

to secure it properly. Do not let them cross the brood 
any more than is absolutely necessary (fig. 55). Place 
the frame in the hive it is to occupy, and proceed with the 
next brood-comb in the same manner. Let them occupy 
the same relative position as before, keeping the brood as 
compact as possible. 

If there are combs without brood sufficient to fill one 
or more frames, place them at the outside, with the 
brood-combs at the center. Out off all round, finished 
edges, and avoid cutting the combs to waste ; all pieces of 
dry comb too small for use should be kept for beeswax. 
Drone-comb should be reserved-, if white, save it for 
guides in surplus boxes ; if dark, put it in frames for ex- 
tracting. A dish should be at hand to receive such por- 
tions of comb-honey as are not put in the frames. 

Brush all bees from the window into the hive, with a 



QUEERS. 129 

damp wing, and take to the old position on the stand. 
Empty the bees from the box, in front of the hive, and 
see that all enter. Contract the entrance, and in all ways 
prevent robbing. A little honey left on the outside might 
excite plundering, and the colony is not now in good con- 
dition to repel attacks. If they are strong, the bees will 
soon join all the parts, and fasten all the combs securely 
to the frames, when the sticks may be taken off and laid 
away for future use. For their first experiments in this 
direction beginners should select a hive with old, tough, 
and straight combs. 

Capt. Hetherington prepares his frames for transfer- 
ring, by boring holes through all four sides of the frame, 
about once in two inches, and fastens the combs in place, 
by sticking the thorns of the red haw through these holes 
into the edges of the comb. As these are very tough, and 
do not need to be removed, they make the comb very 
firm, and less liable to break out when handling. He has 
practised this method very extensively, and considers it 
superior to any other. It is desirable to find the queen, 
if possible, when driving the bees into the box, and cage 
her. After the transferring is completed, place the cage 
on top of, or between the combs, when the bees will more 
readily gather among them. When they become quiet, 
she may be liberated. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

QUEENS. 

IMPORTANCE OF SELECTING GOOD STOCK. 

The prosperity of every swarm depends very largely upon 
the queen. This being true, too much importance cannot 
be attached to the necessity of keeping each hive supplied 
with a good queen. In all other branches of stock-raising 



130 QUEEKS. 

we select tlie finest stock to propagate from, if we expect 
to secure the best qualities. We also apprehend the ne- 
cessity of introducing from time to time, superior strains, 
and of breeding from parents not akin. Who can fail to 
perceive the injury that must have come to our native 
bees from two sources, viz., from being propagated from 
inferior stock, and from in-breeding ? 

A prime consideration then, preliminary to the proper 
rearing of queens, is, that at least two distinct strains of 
blood of best quality should be represented. This is 
easily done, if Italian stock is to be raised, by ordering 
tested queens from different breeders, who are known to 
have procured their stock from distinct sources. In pur- 
chasing such queens, do not hesitate to pay a good price 
for a first-class queen. Every breeder has queens which 
he values at high prices, and if you can secure one that a 
reliable dealer considers worth $5.00, you are fortunate, 
even when ordinarily good ones are selling for $2. 00. 

It will be seen, as we proceed, that the quality of the 
strains from which the queens are to be reared, may be 
definitely determined, as the brood used may be taken 
only from colonies containing selected queens. But 
the characteristics of the drones by which these choice 
queens are to be fertilized, will be much more un- 
certain. . 

It is true we can prevent the swarms from which we 
rear our queens, from producing drones, thereby setting 
one obstacle aside ; and it is also evident that we need not 
allow any but selected colonies to rear drones, by remov- 
ing drone combs, and destroying such drone brood as is 
objectionable. If any mature drones are in the way, 
they may be removed as follows : Cage the queen, 
brush all the bees from the combs, into a box, and place 
over it a board, with an opening, across which are 
nailed strips of tin or zinc, precisely 6 / 3a in. apart. 
These openings will permit the workers to pass into the 



QUEENS. 131 

hives, which should be placed above, containing the caged 
queen, while the drones are retained in the box. 

Drone combs may be supplied to these chosen colonies, 
and the bulk if not the whole of the drones in our 
apiary be furnished from such stock. Yet there are 
native, or inferior bees in almost every section, so near, 
that our choice queens are liable to be fertilized by their 
drones. 

If I were able to recommend a practical method of se- 
curing with certainty, the impregnation of our queens, 
by selected drones, it would afford me great gratification. 

FERTILIZATION IN CONFINEMENT. 

This subject has received special attention, and in sev- 
eral instances, success has been reported. While associated 
with Mr. Quinby, we experimented upon it thoroughly, 
with the aid of every suggestion that had been given by 
those who advocated it most strenuously, and in every in- 
stance we were unsuccessful. We used enclosures of all 
dimensions, from a lamp chimney up to a room 8 ft. 
square, covered at top, and each side with wire cloth and 
glass. I have witnessed the queen as she came naturally 
forth from the hive into this room, and was surrounded 
by drones on the wing, yet in no single instance did we 
attain the desired result. But the fact that we have not 
been successful is by no means proof of its impossibility. 
Many who have experimented in this direction express 
themselves confident of success. 

Prof. Hasbrouck of Flatbush, L. I., in a paper read 
before the National Convention held in New York in 1878, 
states that m many instances he has witnessed their mat- 
ing m small boxes upon the top of his hives. It is, how- 
ever, so far from being uniformly successful, that a prac- 
ticable method for accomplishing it can not yet be confi- 
dently recommended. But I anticipate the time when 



132 QTTEEKS. 

persistent experiment will overcome present obstacles, and 
achieve the desired result. An earnest wish may prompt 
this opinion, for, if successful, the result must be a higher 
standard of purity, and an excellence not otherwise to be 
attained. 

REARING QUEENS. 
WHEK TO BEAR. 

The first step necessary is to secure a supply of dronea 
from such stocks as may have been chosen for the pur~ 
pose. It is usually better to select such swarms the sea- 
son previous, furnish them drone comb, and mark them 
so as to identify them. As in most other active opera- 
tions of the apiary, the time at which queens may be prof- 
itably reared, Avill vary in different seasons and localities. 
It will be seen that I do not advocate as early operations 
as many writers. I have sometimes succeeded in stimu- 
lating swarms to unusually early breeding, but such 
efforts have never resulted profitably. 

In a climate like Central New York I shall not advise 
rearing queens before apple blossoms appear, which is 
here from the 12th to the 20th of May. 

Swarms that are queenless before this time should be 
united with others that have queens. Even at this date 
queen-rearing will be found somewhat vexatious, especially 
if the weather is unfavorable, and the usual scarcity of 
honey follows, as it will necessitate feeding. 

The nuclei will also need to be much stronger at this 
time, than later in the season. If it is desired to rear 
Italian queens at such times as native drones will not in- 
terfere, it may often be done by stimulating Italian colo- 
nies to early breeding in spring ; or a native stock may 
have Italian drone-brood given it towards fall, and if they 
are kept queenless, they will keep their drones late in the 
season, after the native drones are destroyed. I have sue-- 



QUEENS. 133 

ceeded in rearing fine Italian queens as }ate as October, 
when the weather was very fair, which were fertilized bj 
such selected drones. 

I think it wise, as a rule, not to attempt to rear any 
great number of queens until June, when the interval of 
scarcity after apple-blossoms has passed, and the subse- 
quent flow of honey has commenced. The point which I 
desire to impress is this, that queen-rearing should be 
carried on, as far as possible, when the bees are gathering 
honey most abundantly. There is probably no more 
auspicious time than during the swarming period. I 
would avail myself of every opportunity to preserve the 
oldest and best developed queen cells, from suitable stock, 
where preparations had been made for swarming. 

HOW TO KEAE QUEENS. 

I here give place to a paper by M. Quinby, which has 
received the hearty approval of many of our most capable 
bee-keepers. He says : 

" * * * I have studied well the conditions that 
produce good queens, as well as inferior ones, and I have 
never yet found a queen that will 
duplicate herself on every occa- 
sion, unless it is one of the com- 
mon variety. I can count a few 
dozen, perhaps, after which will 
be some variation. I have settled 
down pretty much on one system : 

"First, make a nucleus box, 
five inches wide, seven inches 
lonff, and six inches high, hold- 

° . , . ., 1 /« Fig. 56.— HUCXEUS BOX. 

mg, at least, three combs (fig. 

56). These combs should contain honey enough to 
last two or three days, or more. Now, go to the hive 
from which you are breeding, and - obtain a piece of 
worker-brood comb, nearly three inches long and about 




134 



QUEENS. 



half an inch wide (fig. 57). This should be new, if 
possible. The larvae should not be less than two nor more 

l#S#fIfIw the egg - In the center of 

^^I^^B^fBMS^ ^ ie m iddle comb cut a space 
WaSSmiK^mgarF three inches long by an 

Fig. 57.-COMB, WITH BROOD FOR inch fl J ngert thig ieCe 

QUEEN RAISING. „ , i ■ i • i • , 

of brood, which is support- 
ed at the ends, by the shape, as shown in fig. 58. Allow 
no more brood in the box. In the middle of the day when 
the bees are flying, take out from a strong colony that is 



fpSfsfftSSSSs) 

Fig. 58.— COMB, AS ABOVE, INSERTED IN COMB. 

maturing brood, a little less than a quart of bees, nearly 
all of which will be young bees, which are thought to be 
better nurses. Shut them in the nucleus box thirty-six 
or forty-eight hours, and then let them out. They will 



QUEEKS. 



135 



build several queen cells (fig. 59). If the brood was just 
the right age, they will be likely to hatch in ten days, not 
less. At the end of that time, look early in the morning, 
and if you can cut any of them out without injuring the 
others, do it, but leave one. If joined so that you will 
have to destroy a part to separate them, leave them, but 
examine several times through the day, and if any hatch, 
remove them at once : I have found four hatched, at one 



•us?.--*-* 



»&«£»< 




Fig. 59. — QUEEN CELLS ON COMB. 

time. The cells that have been cut out may be used to 
supply other nuclei, or they may be transferred to the 
queen nursery (fig. 60). I claim that I can raise, thus 
cheaply, as good queens as can be obtained. I feel like 
saying better than those will average, where a full colony 
has been employed to raise a dozen. I know that I am on 
delicate ground. Some of my best friends, who are earn- 
est in their wishes to advance the science of bee-culture, 
will pity, perhaps condemn me. If the reasons that I 



136 



QUEENS. 




60. — QUEEN NURSEftr. 



give are not sufficient to sustain the system, let it fall ; 1 
want it upheld by merits of its own, or not at all. 

" How is it with natural swarms ? Ten or fifteen cells 
are often made where a swarm has issued. The first are 

made under the impulse of 
the swarming fever. If the 
swarm issues before any are 
sealed over, very many will 
be started at once. Some 
of them, however, after the 
swarm has left, receive much 
less attention than the first 
ones did. If want of atten- 
tion makes an inferior queen in case of artificial rearing, 
can any one say why the same causes will not produce the 
same results here ? We are not likely to ascertain for ^ 
certainty, as all except two or three of the first are de- 
stroyed. But when we come to imitate natural swarmmg, 
in a sense, by removing a queen from a full stock, and 
claim better queens in consequence, we can test it some- 
what. We find in the attempts to replace the mother, a 
still greater diversity in the time of starting cells. It is 
reported that some queens will hatch in nine days, some 
in ten, others sixteen and eighteen, and at all intermediate 
times. Those hatching under ten days are claimed to 
be deficient in development, and short-lived. I never had 
any nine-day queens, and cannot say. Those that are 
slow to mature are quite apt to be deficient. I do not 
say that some such do not make beautiful queens, but the 
average is no better than fcen-day queens. 

" When first deprived of the mother, the bees make 
cells over larvae, without seeming to care much for a con- 
venient place ; after the first impulse is over, they find a 
good place occasionally, and commence other cells, but 
having a large number already, they work as if they cared 
little for these last. They seem to nurse such for want of 



QUEEHS. 13? 

something to do — never expecting to need them. They 
may be all right, except late, and just sealed over when 
the first one hatches. It is hardly possible to cut out 
such an unripe cell, and get from it a good queen. Until 
a queen has its shape and begins to get color, ii is very 
delicate and tender. The cell is twice the size necessary 
to hold it, and if it is cut off, and only turned over — even 
if carefully done — it falls from one side to the other, and 
is bruised badly, making it a cripple, and inferior in color. 

" Some of the advantages of the nucleus system may be 
found in the particular care of a few points. 

"LI want new comb for the brood, as cells can be 
worked over out of that, better than from the old and 
tough. New comb must be carefully handled. If none 
but old, tough comb is to be had, cut the cells down to 
one-fourth of an inch in depth. The knife must be sharp 
to leave it smooth, and not tear it. The bees will enlarge 
and turn downward such shallow cell nearly as well as on 
new comb. 

" 2. Clean comb in condition to lay in, must be given the 
bees in the brood hive frequently, perhaps every day, if 
rearing many queens. Look every day, so as to know 
just when the queen lays in any comb. ¥ou should cut 
out the brood in five or six days from the time the eggs 
are laid, and be sure of queens hatching in ten or eleven 
days afterward, according to the age of larvse. As all the 
eggs in the comb were laid within a few hours of each 
other, all will mature about the same time ; such cells 
can be cut out and handled without injury. A colony 
may be deprived of its queen, and receive a cell the next 
day which will hatch m a few hours. As there are but few 
brood cells given them, the nurses in proportion are even 
greater than in full colonies. Remember, this is all the 
brood they have to take their attention. They have just 
realized their need of a queen ; they have the means 
placed conveniently, with space underneath : thev work 



138 QUEERS 

with a will, having no earlier or later ones to choose from, 
and in three days all are sealed up. 

" Compare these queens with those raised in hives full 
of brood. I do not claim to get better queens, but may 
I not claim as good, and more uniformly good ? Just 
give the nucleus an additional comb of brood of all ages 
the next day, and no convenient place cut for queen cells, 
and they would start but few. There are too many young 
bees to be cared for, like the full stock. Many of those 
started would be neglected. Have I made it clear that 
nurses and brood can be economically adjusted ? 

" When the young queen has commenced laying, and 
has been removed, new brood can not be given to the bees 
and they be expected to rear as many more queens wil- 
lingly. They should have some of the cells ready made, 
given them, making themselves useful in caring for 
queens until they lay. Whenever another batch of cells 
is wanted, introduce another supply of nurse-bees, and 
work as before." 

ANOTHER METHOD. 

There is another method of rearing queens, which in 
many respects I prefer to the one just described. I prac- 
tice both, yet, considering all essential features, I have a 
preference for frames uniform in size with those in the 
hive, for all operations, as thus honey and bees can usu- 
ally be more conveniently supplied. Yet, if the small 
nucleus boxes are used, honey may be secured in the flush 
of the season by furnishing the small frames filled with 
empty comb or foundation, to these boxes, after removing 
such as have been filled with honey. I have often been 
able to obtain a large number of such combs well filled 
and capped over, which I have saved with proper care, 
until wanted for similar purposes the following season. 
The full-sized frames for nuclei are preferable because 
the bees used to rear the queens are of value, if swarms 



QUEENS. 13 & 

are to be built up artificially (as hereafter directed), and 
are already in the hives designated to receive such swarms. 

The process of rearing queens in full colonies is as fol- 
lows : Select the stock from which it is desired to secure 
queen cells. Remove the queen, and place her in a hive 
prepared to receive her, or use her to supply any de- 
ficiency that may have occurred. The bees, finding them- 
selves destitute of a queen, will proceed to construct 
queen-cells, which should be cared for as directed in this 
chapter. If it is preferred to use a stock of native bees, 
which are thought by some to be better nurses, remove 
the queen, and take from them all the combs containing 
eggs and brood, in its first stages. These combs may be 
placed in hives which need strengthening, after shaking 
and brushing all bees back to their own stand. Now, 
take from the hive possessing the queen, whose brood you 
wish to secure, such combs as contain larvae of the required 
age. If this hive had been supplied about six days pre- 
viously with clean white worker-combs, placed in the 
center of the brood-nest, it would probably contain larvae 
in just the desired degree of development. Besides, when 
tender combs are used, queen-cells will be more readily 
started, with the chances in favor of a larger number. 
Remove the bees from these combs, and place the latter 
in the native swarm prepared for them. 

It is not best to expect more than ten or twelve cells 
from each hive thus arranged, yet when all the conditions 
are favorable, I have sometimes had a much larger num- 
ber started. If several colonies are to be prepared in this 
way, it is better to do it on successive days, that the 
queens may not mature so nearly at once, so that a less 
number wiil need care at the same time. In eight days 
after the above operation, the combs may be carefully 
lifted out, and the number of cells ascertained. In some 
instances they will be built so closely together, that they 
can not be separated with safety to all. For instance, if 



140 QtTEEtfS. 

five cells are built in a cluster, the one in the center and 
two on the outside can only be saved by cutting through 
.the two others. During these operations, it is necessary 
to handle the combs with great care, keeping them in the 
same position as when in the hive, that the queens may 
receive no injury. 

FORMING NUCLEI. 

If the queens are to be used for new swarms, arrange 
the requisite number of hives in the different positions in 
the apiary, that you wish the swarms to occupy. It is 
my practice to purchase native bees in box hives at this 
time, and transfer the combs and bees to such hives (as 
directed in Chap. VII., on Transferring), giving each 
nucleus one comb containing brood, and about one quart 
of bees. From a good box hive I form from six to eight 
nuclei. Also, I sometimes bring a colony already in mov- 
able frames, from another apiary, and divide it in about 
the same number of parts. In either case, the queen is 
removed, and used where one is desired. These bees will 
usually remain more contentedly if they are confined to 
the nucleus for the first twenty-four hours. 

Another practical method is to open a hive in the same 
apiary, and after securing the queen, remove from it a 
card containing brood as fully developed as can be deter- 
mined by the looks. Place this in one of the nucleus 
hives prepared, with a close fitting division board at each 
side, if a hanging frame is used, or the panels with the 
standing frame. * 

Now, remove three or four other combs from the same 
hive, and after giving them a sudden shake in front of 
their own hive, to dislodge the old bees, take them to the 
nucleus, and brush all the young bees that cling to them, 
into it. This will usually furnish a sufficient supply of 

* These division boards or panels should be used in all nuclei formed ;n largo 
hives, to economise the heat. 



QUEEKS. 141 

bees for a nucleus. Eeturn these last combs to their own 
hive, supply the place of the one removed with a frame of 
foundation or comb, and return the queen. This method 
will be advisable where but one or more stocks are kept. 
In this case it would not be necessary to prepare a swarm 
from which to take cells. The nucleus swarm may be 
allowed to construct cells, the best of which may be se- 
lected. Proceed as above, with other good hives, until 
the desired number is obtained. The second day after 
these are formed, the cells in the hive in waiting will be 
ten days old, and the most advanced be liable to hatch. 
If only eggs had been furnished, from which these queens 
were to be reared, they would not mature under sixteen 
days from the time the egg was laid. On the evening 
previous, or on the morning of the tenth day at the latest, 
remove the cells with a very sharp small-bladed knife, and 
place them in a box for the purpose, always handling 
them with extreme care (see fig. 66b). If any one of 
these queens is allowed to hatch before they are cared for, 
she will be likely to destroy all the 
rest. This she accomplishes by 
biting into the side of the cell and 
stinging her helpless rival (see fig. 
66d). The box should contain a 
portion of cotton or wool, to make 
it soft (fig. 61). If a laying queen ^ 61 -Q™ EN "^ *ox- 
is at hand, she may be introduced to this stock. Now, 
distribute the queen-cells among the nuclei, being sure 
to place them near the cluster of bees, where they will 
be protected. 

I sometimes add another empty comb to the nucleus, 
und merely place the queen-cell between the two, where 
it will occupy a natural position. At other times I simply 
make a hole through the comb, large enough to receive 
the cell, with the lower end slanting downward. I have 
sometimes introduced the cells to the nuclei as soon as the 




±42 QUEENS. 

latter were formed, but the bees are more liable to de- 
stroy them, than when the nuclei have been established 
for a day or two. 

These cells given the nuclei will usually hatch during 
the next four or five days. If they fail to do so, it is 
best to supply them with other cells. Care must be 
taken to remove any cells that may be started upon the 
combs furnished these hives. Also, as the queens appear, 
they should be examined to see if they are perfect in all 
respects. As they are removed for various purposes, other 
cells may be furnished. The queen will fly out for fer- 
tilization in from four to six days from leaving the cell, 
under favorable circumstances. In three or four days 
after impregnation, she will usually begin to lay, when 
her wing may be clipped. If she does not begin within 
two weeks from the time she was hatched, I would advise 
destroying her. 

QUEEN NURSERY. 

Dr. Jewell Davis, of Illinois, has invented what is called 
a queen-nursery, designed for hatching and holding extra 
queens. Its dimensions correspond with those of the 
frames used, and it may be placed in a full hive for the 
purposes indicated (see fig. 60). 

QUEEN CAGES. 

A simple and practical queen-cage is essential in every 
apiary. A goodly number of them should always be on 
hand convenient for immediate use. A good one that 
will meet all requirements is shown in fig. 62, b. Make it 
of light wire-cloth, eight mesh or eight wires to the inch. 

The open end should be made of the selvedge of the 
wire-cloth, or if a cut edge is used, one wire should be 
ravelled out, and all the ends nicely bent back, as the 
queen would be likely to receive injury while being caged, 
if the sharp ends of the wire projected at the edge. 



QUEERS. 



143 



Prepare a close-fitting stopper, which completes the 
cage. If an opening is cut in the stopper, and filled 
with candy, it will furnish ready food for the caged queen 
at all times. Cand}> for this purpose is made by using 
" A " sugar with a small proportion of flour, and a little 
water. Boil it in a saucepan, stirring until it begins to 
grain. Then fill the cavity in the stopper with this 
syrup while it is warm, when it will harden. 

ALLEY'S DRONE EXCLUDER, AND QUEEN TRAP COMBINED. 

This is one of Mr. Alley's latest inventions. It is so 
constructed that it may be adjusted to any hive. It al- 
lows the drones to pass through cones 
to the upper part of the trap, where 
they cannot escape or return to the 





a, alley's drone excluder. Fig. 62. 



b, QUEEN CAGE. 



hive. They may afterwards be returned, destroyed or 
used as desired. It will readily be seen that this trap is 
not open to the objection raised by some that the drones 
are held where they are in the way, and clog the passages 
of the working bees. The advantage to be gained in the 
use of these traps by allowing only such drones to fly as 
one desires his queens to meet, is evident. It is also of 
value in preventing the escape of the queen. As a 
swarm will never leave without a queen, loss of swarms 
may thus be prevented. These traps are so neatly made 
as to be an ornament to the apiary. See fig. 62, a. 



144 QUEENS. 

INTRODUCING QUEENS. 

Four points are necessary to observe in introducing 
queens. 

1st, that the hive contains no queens or queen- 
cells. 

2d, that the bees are all induced to fill themselves with 
honey. 

3d, that the queen is pervaded with the same scent 
as the bees to which she is introduced. 

4th, that she be introduced in such a manner, that she 
will not be hastily met as an intruder. 

A failure to meet the first requirement often results in 
the loss of queens. A cell may be hidden in a sly place 
and overlooked. For instance, I have known queen-cells 
to be made between broken edges of transferred combs, 
which were afterwards built over and concealed, so that 
no indication of a queen-cell appeared. The fact that 
such may be the case, favors the immediate introduction 
of queens. Let us notice some extreme cases where a 
queen may be present. I have removed a queen that had 
a defective leg, or that was becoming un prolific, intend- 
ing to supply her place with another. It was supposed, 
of course, that being the rule, that no other queen was 
present ; but during the process I have noticed a cell from 
which a queen had just issued ; and upon further ex- 
amination, have found the young queen in another part 
of the hive. The mode of confining the queen for 24 or 
48 hours, after the old one is removed, is often practised, 
but I have known cases where a young queen has entered 
such a hive during this time, and destroyed the one intro- 
duced as soon as released. I mention these instances as 
I have had them occur in my own experience. The pres- 
ence of fertile workers often causes the loss of queens 
when introduced, as the bees are less willing to receive 
her at such times. The resource in such instances, is, to 



QTTEEHS. 145 

furnish them brood from which to rear a queen, which 
they will generally accept. 

2d. The bees may usually be induced to fill themselves 
/rith honey by smoking, yet it is sometimes desirable to 
sprinkle them with liquid honey or syrup, for the pur- 
pose. If honey is not being gathered, the necessity for 
operating when all the bees are in the hiye, at morning 
or evening, so that all may be induced to fill themselves, 
will be evident. 

3d. It has been recommended to add to the syrup or 
honey some kind of essence which would give them all 
the same odor. Others depend upon smoke, using to- 
bacco as a preference. Whatever scent is used, both the 
queen and bees should be pervaded with the same. 

4th. The covering of the queen with honey or syrup 
will attract the bees when she is placed among them, and 
they will realize her identity as a queen while licking her 
off. I usually find rotten wood sufficient for smoke, and 
the use of honey from the hive which is to receive the 
queen will ordinarily afford the required similarity of odorj 

Among the varied methods of introduction, that which 
will allow the new queen to be introduced soonest after 
the old one is removed is most desirable. If I were to 
introduce a very choice queen with the least possible 
chance of losing her, I would make a stock queenless, and 
leave it in that condition eight days. The queen-cells 
which they naturally construct should then be removed; 
after smoking thoroughly, and as they would be expect- 
ing a queen, and deprived of eggs or larvae from which 
to rear her, they would undoubtedly be in a favorable 
mood to accept her majesty. If the queen is now smeared 
with honey, and placed between the frames at the top, 
there is hardly a chance that she will not be accepted. If 
the bees are busy collecting honey, the work may be done 
at any time of day, but when honey is but sparingly 
gathered, I prefer doing it after the be^s stop flying at 
7 



H5 QUEERS. 

night. It will also be necessary to smoke them more 
thoroughly at that time. Although most safe, this mode 
of introducing queens is not altogether desirable. I 
would prefer to lose one queen in five, and introduce as 
soon as the old queen is removed, rather than leave the 
hives queenless the stated time, and lose none. If it is 
found necessary to change queens in hives that are being 
extracted at intervals, it may be done easily and success- 
fully. At a time when the bees are gathering honey in 
most profusion, and the combs are frequently extracted, 
the bees will be most completely demoralized, and gen- 
erally gorged with honey. I have had no trouble in tak- 
ing away the old queen at such times, and installing a 
new one in her place. Some introduce a queen by put- 
ting her in a cage, and tying a piece of thin muslin over 
the open end, or by using comb for a stopper, which the 
bees will bite away, and thus affect her release. Others 
construct a cage of different proportions, leaving one side 
open, instead of the end. Then a hole is made in a comb 
filled with honey, by thrusting a knife through, turning 
it around, and withdrawing it without removing any of 
the comb. The queen is then confined to one side of the 
comb by placing the cage over her, and crowding it 
against the comb. The bees will clear the opening and 
release the queen. I have practised this method success- 
fully, but, as a rule, I would prefer releasing her from 
the cage, instead of allowing the bees to do it. In all 
cases, an examination should be made at a suitable time 
to become assured of her safety. 

When it is desired to Italianize native stocks, it is 
simply necessary to remove the native queens, and intro- 
duce Italians. In twenty-one days, the young Italian 
bees will begin to appear, and in six or eight weeks, in 
the busy season, the natives will all disappear 



QUEERS. 14 r rf 

CLIPPING QUEENS' WINGS. 

This practice is thought by many to be one of the new 
discoveries of the age. Mr. Langstroth tells us in his 
work that it was followed in Virgil's time, and also men- 
tions an account bearing date as early as 1766, of a bee- 
master in Spain who carefully clipped the wings of his 
queen-bees, to prevent loss by swarming. There are, 
doubtless, some slight evils incident to the practice. 

I am satisfied that I have had many fine queens super- 
seded from the dissatisfaction of the bees with a queen 
with this imperfection. I do not imagine, however, that 
it is any real detriment to the value of the queen. There 
are so many arguments in favor of the practice that I 
could not relinquish it, even if it involved a much greater 
loss. The chances of loss from other sources are very 
much reduced, and the benefit realized in various opera- 
tions, as demonstrated herein, proves its utility and en- 
tire practicability. 

THE PROCESS. 

It may be done with a sharp knife, or with a pair of 
scissors. If a knife is used, grasp the 
queen by the forward part of the body, 
and place the wing to be removed upon 
a smooth surface, and cut about one 
half of it away (fig. 63). If scissors 
are preferred, use those with round 
points, as they are less liable to in- 
jure the queen, and may be more safely f 
carried in the pocket than sharp point- clipped wraa. 
ed ones. The inexpert would do better to handle the 
queen by the wings. 

HOW TO HANDLE A QUEEN. 

To handle a queen with perfect safety to her majesty 
requires some experience, Never allow the least pressure 




148 QUEERS. 

to come upon the abdomen. They may be often confined 
in a cage, without touching with the hand. Place the 
cage in front of her upon the comb, and with the stopper 
gently induce her to enter. If one or more bees pass in 
with her, all the better. When ready to liberate her, she 
will pass from the cage to the combs without difficulty. 
The form of cage described was designed with this special 
point in view. The value of a good queen should ever be , 
borne m mind, and in all operations great care exercised, 
that she does not receive injury. When they are deposit- =, 
ing eggs most freely, they become very large and heavy, 
and will sometimes drop to the ground during the manip- 
ulation of the combs. To avoid this, have a cage at 
hand, and confine the queen during necessary operations 
with the combs, and return her when ready to close the 
hive. 

AGE OF QUEEKS. 

The bee-keeper should keep a record of the age of all 
the queens in his apiary. Some advise hanging a small 
slate upon the front of each hive, and for making any 
immediate record, it will be found very convenient. I 
advise numbering each hive, and using what I call a yard- 
book, devoting a page to each hive, numbered to corre- 
spond. In this book, the age of the queen may be kept, 
and any other facts which it may be useful to remember. 
I have kept such books for each apiary away from home, 
with much satisfaction. It was our habit to visit such i 
apiaries once each week. I have studied the condition of 
these colonies as recorded in this book, the evening before 
visiting them, and found myself working much more un- 
derstandmgly the following day. 

When one has purchased a valuable queen at much ex- 
pense, or if one has been reared that proves to be more 
than ordinarily good, the owner will be slow to destroy 
her, so long as she deposits worker eggs ; even though she 



QUEENS. 149 

becomes less prolific, until she is lour or five years old ; 
but for the majority of queens this will not answer. I 
shall not advise retaining queens longer than three years. 
Several years ago I argued at one of our "North-Eastern 
Bee-Keeper's Conventions," that, where bees were kept 
in the old way in a hive with a small brood-chamber, and 
the queen was only required to deposit a limited number 
of eggs, she might be expected to remain fruitful for a 
longer term of years than under the present system of 
management, where the motto is " a large force for a large 
amount of work." For we now use every possible means 
to secure the largest amount of brood, often trebling the 
number of bees that would be reared in a small box-hive 
with no care. 

The idea was almost, if not quite, unanimously re- 
jected at that time, but later experience confirms me in 
the opinion that queens will fail sooner under the present 
system, than with the old methods. 

I consider then, that as a rule three years should be the 
average limit of a queen's age, and many will become use- 
less earlier. Ever have an eye to the queen, and if she 
become deficient in any way, let her place be supplied 
with a good one. Do not allow the bees to supersede her 
themselves, which they might do to a disadvantage. 

DEOKE-LAYIKG QUEENS. 

Drone-laying queens are usually such, as from any 
cause, are unable to meet the drone for impregnation. 
Such queens will only produce drone progeny. They 
often deposit their eggs in worker combs, but as the brood 
approaches maturity, the cells will be extended about '/ s 
in. before being capped over, which gives the surface a 
rough appearance, as such brood is always somewhat 
scattered (fig. 64). It requires but little experience to 
recognize these indications of an imperfect queen. 



150 



QUEERS. 




Old queens often come to this same condition. These 
we term "spent queens." They will deposit but few 

eggs, which will pro- 
duce only drones. The 
judicious bee-keeper will 
seldom allow his bees to 
reach this state. I have 
known swarms that 
went into winter quar- 
ters with an apparently 
good queen, to come out 
in spring with a drone- 
layer. Mr. Langstroth 
gives us proof that hun- 
ger and cold will reduce 
a prolific queen to this condition. He and others have 
exposed fertile queens to a very low temperature, and they 
were afterwards unable to deposit other than drone eggs. 



Fig. 64.— BEOOD FROM DRONE-LAYING 
QUEEN IN WORKER-CELLS. 




. 65. — QUEEN-CELLS OVER DRONE BROOD. 



It is qnite common for bees that have none but drone 
eggs, to try to rear a queen from them, but every such 
effort is fruitless. Cells of this kind are shown in fig. 65- 






QUEENS. 151 

LOSS OF QUEENS. 

A critical time for our queens is when they leave the 
hive or nucleus to meet the drones. They are liable to 
be caught by birds, and at times, fail to enter their own 
hives on their return. This is an excellent reason for not 
setting hives too closely together, and also, for using a 
variety of colors in roofs or hives, to assist them in iden- 
tifying their own homes. An examination should be 
made at the proper time to ascertain if the queen has 
safely returned. 

INDICATIONS OF LOSS. 

The next morning after a loss of this kind has occurred, 
and occasionally at evening, the bees may be seen running 
to and fro in the greatest consternation on the outside. 
Some will fly off a short distance, and return ; one will 
run to another, and then to another, still in hopes, no 
doubt, of finding their lost queen. A hive, close by, will 
probably receive a portion, and will seldom resist an ac- 
cession under such circumstances. Al) this will be going 
on while other hives are quiet. Towards the middle of 
the day, the confusion will be less marked ; but the next 
morning it will be exhibited again, though not so plainly, 
and will cease after the third, when they become appar- 
ently reconciled to their fate. They will continue their 
labors as usual, bringing in pollen and honey. Here I 
am obliged to differ with writers, who tell us that all 
labor will now cease. I hope the reader will not be de- 
ceived by supposing that the collection of pollen is an 
infallible indication of the presence of a queen. I can 
assure him it is not always the case. 

When such conditions are noticed, it is well to exam- 
ine the hive to see if a queen can be found. Or, if the 
bee-keeper is inexperienced in finding queens, he may 
mark the date, and after a day or two has passed, look for 



152 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

queen-cells, and if any are found, containing larvae, 
it will indicate the absence of the queen. Additional 
evidence is furnished by the absence of eggs in the brood- 
combs. The necessity for keeping colonies supplied with 
queens, and the means therefor, are indicated in the 
chapter on "Increase." 

MORE THAN ONE QUEEN IN A HIVE. 

While it is a rule that each colony will contain but one 
queen, there will occasionally be exceptions. As men- 
tioned in regard to introducing queens, I have had proof 
of these exceptions in my own experience. We have also 
the testimony of others to the same effect. I knew an 
instance where the old queen was allowed to remain with 
the young one until they were put in winter quarters. Mr. 
Ira Barber, of this State, had two queens in one hive 
during the latter part of the season, which were wintered 
together. I mention these instances to show that many 
of the habits of the bee may be sufficiently uniform to 
constitute a rule, yet it is hardly wise to consider them 
invariable. 



CHAPTER IX. 

NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

NATURAL INCREASE. 

Good bee-keepers differ widely upon this subject. 
Many claim that no method of increase can equal natural 
swarming, but it has become a conviction with most, if 
not all, intelligent bee-keepers, that there is a wiser way 
than to allow unrestricted natural swarming. Let us 
notice the condition of a hive, previous to, and during 
the swarming interval. For several days before the issue 



HATUftAL and artificial ikchease. 153 

of the swarm, the queen matures but a limited number 
of eggs, becoming reduced in size nearly to that of a 
virgin queen, in order to be able to fly out with the 
swarm, and upon the day of swarming, even the worker 
bees are comparatively idle. Now, if secpnd and third 
swarms are allowed to issue, these hindrances are multi- 
plied. The 2nd will issue 8 or 9 days after the first, and 
the 3d, about 3 days later. In about 18 days from the 
date of the first swarm, a young queen will become fertile, 
and ready to commence laying. Thus it will be seen 
that the colony has been destitute of a laying queen, for, 
at least 18 days, at a season when a large working force 
of bees is especially valuable. Allowing a deficiency of 
1,000 eggs per day, which is a very moderate estimate for 
a prolific queen, it would make a difference of 18,000 bees. 

In regions like California, where the swarming season 
occurs before the general honey yield, swarms may be in- 
creased, and brought to a condition to store honey rapidly 
before the general harvest begins. There too, the increase 
may be profitably large, with a proportionate gain in sur- 
plus. But in our latitude, where the duration of the 
yield is comparatively short, and the swarming season is 
simultaneous with it, a different system must be pursued. 
A fact to be borne in mind at all times, is, that much 
better proportionate results are reached, in strong colo- 
nies, than when the bulk of bees is less. This is, of course, 
subject to limitation. It is true in the quantity of honej 
they will gather in summer, and consume in winter, in 
the amount of brood they will rear, as well as in rapidity 
of wax-secretion, and comb-building. Besides, they have 
but one set of combs, and one entrance to protect against 
their enemies. 

The motto adopted by all progressive writers, "Keep 
all colonies strong," is one of the fundamental princi- 
ples of success. To this I would add, "Each colony 
should at all times possess a laying queen." As this can 



154 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

not be the case, when swarms are allowed to issue natur- 
ally, the deduction is, that this course is not productive 
of best results. Yet, as there are very many who will 
continue to follow this system of management, until 
they more fully appreciate the advantages to be gained by 
changing it, I shall give some space to Mr. Quinby's di- 
rections concerning natural swarming. 

In the previous editions of this work, as well as in all 
books upon the subject up to the present day, this has 
been considered as one of the most interesting topics to 
be discussed. With his usual attention to minute details, 
Mr. Quinby gave very profuse instructions for all possi- 
ble emergencies, but I shall only make such quotations 
as are most essential for beginners, and those who have 
not come to practice the most advanced modes of increase 
of colonies. 

WHEN SWARMING COMMENCES. 

The swarming season in this latitude sometimes com- 
mences May 15th, and at other times July 1st. Tt usu- 
ally ends about the 15th of the latter month. I have 
known two seasons in Montgomery Co., N". Y., when 
swarms continued to issue throughout the entire summer, 
beginning in May and ending August 25th, with no in- 
terval of more than a week without swarms. One of 
these, 1863, was wet, and the flowers yielded but little 
honey. The native bees sent out about one-third the 
usual number of swarms, while the Italians continued to 
swarm for three months. They did not store much more 
honey than others, but they must have collected more to 
feed the greater quantities of brood which they reared. 
Eather than be idle when the yield was scanty, they col- 
lected material, made combs, reared brood, and sent out 
swarms ; and at the end of the season the colonies were 
as strong, and had as much honey as the nathes, which 
had not swarmed. 



NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 155 

The bee-keeper who thinks much of his bees will, of 
course, wish to see and hive his swarms as they issue. If 
neglected, for even a short time after they cluster, they . 
will often relieve themselves from such protection, and 
seek the shelter of some old tree in the woods. Without 
some knowledge of the indications of swarms, we often 
watch vainly for weeks, remaining at home, and perhaps 
neglecting important business in the fruitless expectation 
that the "bees will swarm." External appearances are 
not to be depended on. Very early swarms often issue 
before clustering out ; also, they very often cluster out 
without swarming. It is necessary to look inside the 
hive for reliable indications. 

INDICATIONS OF SWARMING. 

To a novice, this operation is apparently formidable. 
But with protection for the face, and the aid of a smoker, 
the magnitude of the performance is greatly diminished, 
and will grow less with every repetition. The hives 
should be examined in the middle of the day. Lift out 
the frames, and look for queen-cells. If there are none 
containing eggs or larvae, or none with thin, smooth 
walls, evidently just begun, there is not much prospect 
of a swarm for several days. But if any cells contain eggs, 
or larvae nearly ready to seal over, or are actually enclosed, 
we know at once what to expect. When sealed over, the 
swarm will probably issue the next day. This is at the 
beginning of the swarming season. If at or near the 
el^se we examine again, and find the queen-cells de- 
stro^ed^-ase conclude that they are done swarming. 

I have found the requisites for all regular swarms to 
be something like this. The combs must be crowded 
with bees ; they must contain a numerous brood advanc. 
ing from the egg to maturity, and the bees must be ob 
taining honey either from flowers or artificial sources. * 

♦ To these I would add scarcity of room for brood. 



156 



NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 



A surplus of bees in a scarcity of honey is insufficient to 
bring out the swarm, neither will plenty of honey suffice, 
without the bees and brood. The period of proper dura- 
tion in which all these conditions exist will vary in diffei- 
ent stocks, and many times does not occur at all during 
the season. 

PREPARATIONS FOR SWARMING. 

Queen-cells are about one-third done when they receive 
the eggs ; as these eggs hatch into larvae, others are be- 
gun, and receive eggs at different periods for several days 




"Fig. 66. — clttsTek of queen-cells. 

a, 3, a, Size of the cell when the egg is deposited ; b, Finished cell ; c. Cell from 
which a mature queen has issued ; d, Cell in which the queen has been de- 
stroyed by a rival and removed by the workers ; e, Queen-cell cut from the comb. 

later. The number of such cells seems to be governed 
by the prosperity of the bees ; when the family is large, 
and the yield of honey abundant^ they may construct 
twenty, at other times not More than two or thre'e, al- 
though several such cells A may remain empty. When 
there is nothing preearious^bout the supply of honey, 






NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 157 

the sealing of these cells indicates the first swarm, which 
will generally issue on the first fair day after one or more 
are finished. 

WHICH BEES COMPOSE THE SWARM. 

It is probable that no rule governs the issue of the 
workers. Old and young come out promiscuously. A 
great many old bees may be seen in late swarms, with 
wings so worn as to be unable to fly with the load of 
honey which they attempt to carry. That young bees 
leave, any one may be satisfied on seeing a swarm issue. 
A great many, too young and weak to fly, will drop down 
in front of the hive, having come out now for the first 
time, perhaps not an hour out of the cell ; these very 
young bees may be known by their color. That these 
may creep back to the hive, is another inducement to set 
it near the ground. The old queen often gets down in 
the same way, but her burden of eggs is probably the 
cause of her inability to fly. That the old queen leaves 
with the first swarm is so easily proved with the movable- 
comb hive, that it is unnecessary to occupy several pages 
in demonstrating it. After the swarm has left, you have 
only to examine the combs to be assured that she is no- 
where in the hive. The absence of eggs in the cells is 
other proof. 

We will now suppose that some of your colonies are 
ready to send out swarms, and will also presume that the 
empty hives for the reception of swarms are in readiness. 
To prepare a hive after the swarm has issued indicates 
bad management ; negligence here argues negligence 
elsewhere ; it is one of the premonitions of "bad luck." 

IMMEDIATE INDICATIONS OF A SWARM. 

When the day is fair, and there is not too much wind, 
first swarms generally issue from 10 A. m. until 3 p. m. 



158 HATt/RAL AtfD ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

The first outside indications will be an unusual number of 
bees about the entrance from one to sixty minutes before 
they start. The utmost confusion prevails, bees running 
about in all directions. When first rising from the hive, 
they describe circles of but few feet, but as they recede, 
they spread over an area of several rods. Their move- 
ments are much slower than usual. In a few moments, 
thousands may be seen revolving in every possible direc- 
tion. When all are out of the hive, or soon after, some 
branch of a tree or bush is usually selected on which to clus- 
ter. In less than half a minute after the spot is indicated, 
they are gathered in the immediate vicinity, and all clus- 
ter in a body, from five to ten minutes after leaving the 
hive. They should now be hived immediately, as they 
show impatience if left long, especially in the sun ; also, 
if another stock should send out a swarm while they 
were hanging there, they would be quite sure to unite. 

HOW TO HIVE THEM. 

It makes but little difference in what way they are put 
in the hive, providing they are all made to go in. If 
there is nothing in the way, lay the bottom board on the 
ground, make it level, set the hive on it, and place a wide 
board before it. Out off the branch on which the bees 
are hanging, if it can be done as well as not, and shake 
them off in front of the hive ; a portion will discover it 
and will at once commence a vibration of their wings, 
which seems to be a call for the others. A great many 
are apt to stop about the entrance, thereby nearly or quite 
closing it, and preventing others from going in. You can 
expedite their progress by gently disturbing them with a 
stick or quill. When gentle means will not induce them 
to enter in a reasonable time, and they appear obstinate, 
a little water sprinkled on them will greatly facilitate 
operations, or they may be readily driven in by the use 
of the smoker. 



NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 159 

When they cluster on a branch that you do not wish to 
cut off, arrange the bottom-board as before directed, then 
turn a box bottom up directly under the main part of the 
cluster, and if you have an assistant, let him jar the 
branch sufficiently to dislodge the bees ; most of them 
will fall directly into the box. If no assistant is at hand, 
strike the under side of the branch with the box, and 
when the bees have fallen in, empty them on the board. 
I have gone up a ladder twenty feet high, got the bees 
in this way, and backed down without difficulty. 

A basket or large tin pan may be taken up the ladder 
instead of the hive, from which the bees can be readily 
emptied before it. But very few will fly out in coming 
down. If you succeed in getting nearly all the bees at 
the first effort, merely shaking the branch will be suffi- 
cient to prevent the remainder from alighting, which will 
turn their attention below, where those which have al- 
ready found a hive will be doing their best to call them. 
Swarms will sometimes alight in places where it is im- 
possible to jar them off, as on a large limb, or trunk of 
a tree. At such times place the hive near, as first direct- 
ed, and dip them off with a large tin dipper. * When you 
get the queen in, there will be no trouble with the re- 
mainder, even if there are many left. As soon as they 
ascertain that the queen is not among them, they will 
manifest it by their uneasy movements. 

They will soon leave and join those in the hive, or if 
the queen is yet on the tree, even if there be but a dozen 
with her, those in the hive will leave and cluster again. 
In all cases they must all be made to enter, and when all 
are in, except a few that will be flying, carry the hive at 
once to the stand it is to occupy, and protect them well 
from the rays of the sun with a good roof. The reasons 
for immediately removing the swarm to the stand, are, 

* Dipping is preferable to brushing with a wing or broom, as the latter irritate? 
them exceedingly. 



150 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

that they are generally more convenient to watch in case 
'they are disposed to leave, and many bees can be saved. 
All that leave the hive, mark the location the same as in 
Bpnng. Several hundreds will probably leave the first 
day, a few, several times. When removed at night to the 
permanent stand, such will return to the stand of the pre- 
vious day, and are generally lost ; whereas, if they are re- 
moved at once, this loss is avoided. 

Those that are left flying at the time, return to the old 
stock ; those that return from the swarm the next day 
will not always do this. Bees will seldom leave for the 
woods when put in clean hives, and kept cool. The rank 
smell of fresh paint is offensive to them, and dark col- 
ored hives are often intolerably hot. * 

EMERGENCIES. 

We will now return to the issuing of the swarms. 
There will be some emergencies to provide for, and some 
exceptions to notice. If we keep many colonies, the 
chances are that two or more may issue at one time ; and 
when they do, they will nearly always cluster together. 
It is plain that the greater the number of colonies, the 
more such chances are multiplied. We can, if we are 
watchful, often prevent the issue of more than one at a 
time. This depends in a great measure on our knowl- 
edge of indications. It is well to know by previous ex- 
amination, which hives have made preparations for swarm- 
ing, and as soon as one has begun to issue, look at all the 
rest that are in condition to swarm ; or, what is much 
better, look before any have started. Even if nothing 
unusual is perceived about the entrance, examine the 
boxes. If the bees there are all quiet as usual, no swarm 
need be immediately apprehended, and you will probably 
have time to hive one or two without interruption. 

* A card of brood from another hive, given to a swarm newly-hived, will usually 
induce them to remain when discontented. 



NATURAL AND AETIFICIAL INCREASE. 161 

But should you discover the hees running to and fro in 
great commotion, although quiet at the entrance, you 
should lose no time in sprinkling those outside with water. 
They will instantly enter the hive to avoid the apprehend- 
ed shower. In half an hour they will be ready to start 
again, during which time the others may he secured. 

When any of the subsequent swarms are disposed to 
unite with those already hived, throw a sheet over to keep 
them out. An assistant is very useful at such times ; one 
can watch symptoms, and detain the swarms, while an- 
other hives them. Occasionally, when waiting for a swarm 
to start, two may do so simultaneously. Whenever a part 
was already on the wing, I never succeeded in retarding 
the issue ; it is then useless to try to drive or coax them 
back. To succeed, the means must be applied before any 
part of the swarm leaves. Two or more swarms will clus- 
ter together and not quarrel, if put into one hive. 

SEPARATING; SWARMS. 

Spread a sheet on the ground, shake the bees upon the 
center of it, and set an empty hive each side of the mass ; 
if too many are disposed to enter one hive, set it farther 
off. They should be made to enter rapidly. There are 
even chances of getting a queen in each hive. The hives 
should now be placed twenty feet apart ; if each has a 
queen, the bees will remain quiet, and the work is done ; 
but, if not, the bees in the one destitute will soon mani- 
fest it by running about in all directions, and when the 
queen cannot be found, will leave for the other hive, where 
there are doubless two ; a few going at a time. In this 
case set the queenless portion one side, turn the remain- 
der out upon the sheet, and let them enter as before, keep- 
ing watch for the queens, which indeed should be borne 
in mind from the beginning. As the number of bec3 
is much lessened, the chances of seeing the queen are 



162 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

good. When one is found, secure her, and put with those 
without one. Should you fail to find a queen, and be 
unable to make a division in consequence, or resolve to 
let them remain together, it is unnecessary to put them 
in any larger hive than usual ; but boxes should be 
immediately put on, which should be changed for empty 
ones, as fast as they are filled. 

SWARMS RETURNING TO THE OLD HIVE. 

Occasionally a swarm will issue, and in a few minutes 
return to the old stock. The most common cause is the 
inability of the old queen to fly, on account of her burden 
of eggs, or imperfect wings. I have sometimes, after the 
swarm had returned, found the queen near the hive, and 
put her back ; and the next day she would come out 
again, and fly without difficulty, probably having dis- 
charged some of her eggs. 

Sometimes a swarm will issue and return three or four 
days in succession, but this may generally be remedied, as 
it is often owing to some inability of the queen ; and she 
may frequently be found while the swarm is leaving, out- 
side the hive, unable to fly. In such circumstances, have 
a queen cage ready and secure her as soon as she appears. 
Get the empty hive for the swarm, and a large cloth, and 
put down a bottom-board a few feet from the stock. The 
swarm is sure to come back, and the first bees that alight 
on the hive will set up the call. As soon as you perceive 
this, lose no time in setting the old stock on the board at 
one side, covering it with the cloth. Put the new one in 
its place on the stand, and the queen in it ; in a few min- 
utes the swarm will be in the new hive, when it can be 
removed and the old one replaced. 

AFTER-SWARMS. 

After-swarms are all that issue after the first, called 
second, third, etc., fov convenience. Whenever, in a 



NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 163 

prosperous season, the first swarm is not kept back by- 
foul weather, the first of the young queens in the old 
colony is ready to emerge from the cell in seven or eight 
days. The second swarm may be expected in about two 
days thereafter. On the morning of that day, or the 
evening previous, by putting your ear close to the hive, 
and listening attentively a few minutes, you will hear a 
distinct piping noise like the word " peep," uttered several 
times in succession, and followed by an interval of silence. 
Two or more may be heard at the same time ; one will be 
shrill and fine, another hoarse, short, and quick. These 
notes are probably never heard except when the hive con- 
tains a plurality of queens. I never failed to hear it, 
previous to any after-swarm, whenever I listened. 

PREVENTING AFTER-SWARMS. 

A very decided improvement in practice, for those who 
have hitherto allowed their bees to swarm at will, is to 
permit but one swarm to issue. As this will, in an aver- 
age season, give a satisfactory increase, and furnish more 
or less surplus, it will, to many, prove a desirable method. 
I shall therefore give directions for preventing after- 
swarms. When the first swarm issues, hive it as just de- 
scribed. Twenty-four hours later, open the hive from 
which it came, and remove all the queen-cells. Smoke 
the bees thoroughly, and introduce a laying queen, as di- 
rected in Chap. VIII. Examine the hive a few days later, 
to ascertain if the queen has been accepted, when, if no 
queen-cells have been overlooked, swarming will usu- 
ally be ended for the season. 

Another method which I prefer, is to prepare a nucleus, 
as elsewhere mentioned, in the hive which is to receive 
the swarm. With this method, the queens should first 
have their wings clipped. When the swarm starts, go to 
the hive, and watch for the queen. Her wing being 



164 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

clipped, she cannot fly, and can easily be found. Put her 
in a queen cage, a supply of which should always be at 
hand. As soon as the bees have all issued, remove the 
old hive from the stand and put a new one in its place, 
covering it with the same roof, to identify the spot, and 
place the caged queen at the entrance. Carry the old 
hive to the stand occupied by the nucleus, and put it in 
its place. Open the nucleus, find and cage the queen, 
and place her in the old hive between two combs. Next 
shake all the bees from the nucleus in front of this hive, 
and take these combs to the old stand, and if the work 
has been done so quickly that the swarm has not yet com- 
menced to return, place these combs at the center, or, 
better, alternate them with empty combs. As the swarm 
returns, release the queen, and permit her to enter with 
the rest. The queen in the other hive may be liberated 
the next day. Care must be observed that the bees do 
not enter adjacent hives, which will frequently happen. 
Several light sheets should always be at hand to spread 
over such hives as they may attempt to enter. 

When bees leave the hive in swarming, they seem to 
relinquish all claims to the old location. I have known 
them to enter several adjoining hives. They are usually 
readily accepted at such times, as they are filled with 
honey. The practice of clipping the queen's wings, and 
hiving swarms thus, is advocated by some, for the assign- 
ed reason that if several swarms issue at the same time, 
ihey would separate and return to their respective hives, 
thus saving much trouble. With this, my experience 
does not coincide, particularly if the bees attempt to 
alight, which two or more swarms together are much 
more likely to do. Such are quite apt to all return to one 
hive, and usually to one of those from which they issued, 
yet these too, will often scatter, and enter different hives. 
This I offer as an objection to this plan. As it is essen- 
tially the same ill result as the first method suggested in 



NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 165 

" Artificial Increase/' I adyise those who can do so, not 
to allow them to fly. 

I recommend these latter methods, for those who feel in- 
competent to judge of the proper time to make swarms. 
In the latter case, the occurrence of swarming determines 
the period for the operation, while in the former, the 
bee-keeper must select the colony, and use his discretion 
as to whether it is in condition to furnish a swarm. By 
observing the indications of the queen cells, it is easily seen 
if a swarm will soon be ready, and it may be made arti- 
ficially, thus avoiding the annoyances mentioned as occur- 
ring when they are allowed to issue in the natural way. 

ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

Those who wish to increase their colonies by the best 
methods, and avoid the perplexities of natural swarming, 
will do so by dividing, or as otherwise termed, making 
artificial swarms. It is impossible to state the precise 
date when this increase can be most profitably made, as it 
will vary in different seasons and localities, as well as in 
individual stocks in the same apiary. Increase in quan- 
tity of bees, should at all times be borne in mind, but 
when it is wise to increase swarms, is quite another matter. 
I maintain that it is never best to divide, until all weak 
colonies have been built up to a proper standard, by tak- 
ing brood from stronger ones. If the bee-keeper is so 
fortunate as to possess none but good swarms, he may add 
combs from time to time, so that, at the proper period 
for boxing, or dividing, there may be a larger number of 
combs spared from the old stock. Often it is more de- 
sirable to occupy the colonies to the best advantage in 
this way, than to increase them earlier. When colonies 
are populous, and honey plenty, it is safe to divide. 
There are various practicable methods, but after careful 
trial, I shall advise but two. The first is this : In ths 
middle of a fine day. when the bees are busy at work, 



166 KATUKAL AHD AETIFICIAL INCREASE. 

place a new hive near the colony to be divided. Open 
the old hive, smoke the bees slightly, take from it six 
frames without shaking the bees from them, and place 
them in the new hive. Leave the two center combs in 
the old hive, as well as the old queen. Fill the empty 
space with frames of empty worker combs, or foundation. 
Eemove the new hive to another part of the apiary, where 
a hive has been arranged as hitherto explained, with one 
or two combs, a few bees, and a laying queen. Cage the 
queen, smoke these bees thoroughly, and place the six 
combs taken from the old hive in this one. Put the 
caged queen between two combs in such a position that 
she will have access to sealed honey, smoke all well, and 
close the hive. Twenty-four hours after, open it, using 
smoke, and liberate the queen. 

Mr. H. Alley, of Wenham, Mass., one of the most 
successful queen breeders in the country recommends 
smoking with tobacco, when uniting bees, and introduc- 
ing queens. While I do not approve of the use of tobacco 
smoke as a rule, I appreciate the benefit of having the bees 
pervaded with the same scent, and also of their being 
more completely subdued for the time. If the nucleus 
has not been prepared beforehand, to supply the laying 
queens, one may be purchased, and the swarm be made 
ready on her reception. This mode of increase indicates 
that each strong colony may with safety furnish one good 
swarm, in ordinarily favorable seasons, and many times, 
the new colony formed, as well as the old one, may each 
give yet another. 

But in view of the lack of uniformity in the seasons, 
some being so poor, as in 1869, that not even the very 
best stocks are able to secure food for brood-rearing — the 
second mode is much preferable, as it is equally practica- 
ble whether the increase h to be extensive or limited, as 
desired, or as the yield may warrant. 

It is premised that a number of hives to receive swarms 



NATURAL AND AKTIFICIAL INCKEASE. 16? 

have been prepared as nuclei, and each contains one or 
two combs with a queen, and a small quantity of bees. 
When the colony becomes populous, and honey is gath> 
ered freely, a comb containing sealed brood may be re« 
moved, and replaced with empty comb or foundation. 
Shake the bees from this frame in front of the hive, al- 
lowing such young bees as cling to it to remain, and 
make room for it in a nucleus by moving the division 
board farther to one side. If the weather continues favor- 
able, examine the old colony two or three days later, and 
if the last comb added is found to be filled with eggs 
and honey, another comb of brood may be removed 
and added to the nucleus. If there are several stocks 
from which increase is to be made, a comb may be taken 
from each simultaneously ; but if six or seven are thus 
taken at one time, and united to fill a hive where a queen 
and but few bees are in waiting, the queen should be first 
caged, and the old bees carried with the combs, instead 
of being shaken off as before directed, as a larger quantity 
of bees than the nucleus contains will be required to 
cover and care for so much brood. Always be sure that 
the queen is not on the combs thus removed. In a few 
days after this colony is formed, another may be made 
from the same stocks. The queen should be released in 
twenty-four hours after the swarm is made, always using 
smoke freely at such times. The advantages of this 
method are apparent. If honey-gathering should sud- 
denly cease, as sometimes happens, no partly filled hives 
will be on hand, as when all but one or two combs are 
taken from the old hive. I recall one occasion when I 
divided several colonies in May, giving each part four 
combs and four empty frames. Bad weather supervened, 
and in fact little honey was gathered during the entire 
summer, and I was obliged to unite the divided colonies 
to Hing them to a proper condition for winter. 



168 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

STRAIGHT COMBS. 

A consideration worthy of notice in regard to the 
frames filled with new combs during these operations, is, 
that if the new one be built between two that are true 
and straight, it must itself be perfectly straight. Fre- 
quently, where several frames are filled with foundation, 
the cells in one will be built longer at the top than those 
on the one opposite, making them fit less exactly when 
their position is changed. This plan of dividing is recom- 
mended as efficacious in preventing the desire to swarm. 

CONTROLLING SWARMING. 

Many bee-keepers prefer surplus honey to increase of 
stocks. This is often the case with those who keep but 
one or two swarms, to supply honey for home use. Those 
who pursue bee-keeping for profit, in sections where the 
honey yield is brief in duration, find that, as a rule, the 
less increase made, the greater the gain in surplus. But 
in other sections, where the yield is prolonged, it fre- 
quently happens that stocks may be doubled, and more 
honey secured from each of the two, than would have 
been produced by the old stock, with a gain of the new 
colony besides. As the apiarian can not know in ad- 
vance what the duration of the honey harvest will be, we 
who have short seasons must practice a system of man- 
agement which is suggested by the idea that the less in- 
crease the better, provided the desire to swarm is con- 
trolled. 

NON-SWARMING HIVES. 

With this idea in view, many hives have been devised 
and devices suggested, all of which have been partial fail- 
ures. Probably the New Quinby Hive attains this end as 
nearly as any, but it has never been claimed to be a com- 
plete non-swarming hive. Its facility for furnishing 



NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 169 

abundant box-room when limiting the number of frames, 
constitutes its chief merit in this direction. The ability 
to control the desire to swarm will be found in the meth- 
ods to be practised, rather than in any particular form 
of hive or mechanical device. 

METHODS. 

It is evident that swarming may be prevented, and yet 
the course pursued be very unsatisfactory. For instance, 
a colony that had made fine progress in boxes, became 
very populous, and attempted to swarm. I cut out all 
queen-cells, and removed the queen. Now, I certainly 
was master of the situation, as they did not attempt to 
swarm again, until nine days later. But the amount of 
work done in storing honey during this period, was incon- 
siderable. The bees clung to the hive, seemingly waiting 
until a queen could be reared to lead out a swarm. On 
the ninth day I again removed queen-cells, and introduced 
a young, prolific queen, with clipped wing. I closed the 
hive, and walked to another part of the yard, when I 
turned and saw the swarm issuing. I caught the queen 
as she came out, and caged her. 

Knowing that it would be undesirable to let them re- 
turn to the old hive, I removed it to a distant stand and 
put a new hive in its place, to which they might return. 
This hive was furnished with empty frames, and the 
young queen again given them. An hour later they made 
another attempt, this time with the evident purpose of 
leaving the vicinity, but finding that the queen did not 
accompany them, again returned. I mention this in- 
stance to show the necessity of action before the desire to 
swarm is developed. I think the experience of many will 
coincide with my own, that, as a rule, if hives are prop- 
erly ventilated and shaded, with plenty of room for sur- 
plus, and openings to boxes free and immediate, and am- 
8 



170 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 

pie space afforded the queen to deposit eggs, the impulse 
to swarm will usually be held in check. Colonies with 
young queens are not so apt to endeavor to swarm. For 
ten years past I have extracted honey largely, taking it 
by the ton each season (excepting 1869), and I have never 
had a stock attempt to swarm which was extracted reg- 
ularly each week. This indicates some of the conditions 
necessary to control the tendency to swarm. But where 
hives are boxed, the problem is a more perplexing one. 

DEPRIVING OF A QUEEN. 

There is a practice advocated which is based upon the 
fixed principle that a swarm will not issue, and found a 
new colony, without a queen. Consequently, if a hive is 
made queenless at the beginning of the swarming season, 
no swarm can issue until another queen is in some way 
supplied. If, on the ninth day after the queen is taken 
away, all queen-cells are removed, the brood will be so 
far advanced that other queens cannot be reared, and the 
colony will remain destitute until the apiarian supplies 
the deficiency. 

I have practised this method to quite an extent, but 
there are such evident disadvantages in it, that I cannot 
recommend its general adoption, at least, by the inexpe- 
rienced. Under suitable circumstances, there are benefits 
to be derived from it by the skilful apiarian, where sev- 
eral apiaries are located at a distance, and absolute con- 
trol of each swarm is important, without the necessity of 
constant supervision. Another point in its favor is, that 
swarms can be controlled with less labor. 

SUGGESTIONS. 

Were I to have an apiary under my immediate super- 
vision, and desire to obtain the best possible yield of 
honey, in sections like Central New York, I should al- 



NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 171 

low no increase of swarms. I would select the best half 
of my stocks for boxing, as from such, box-honey must 
be secured, and extract from the remainder, observing 
the rule to "keep each hive supplied with a laying 
queen." In removing cards of brood from those that 
were boxed, and replacing them with foundation, to pre- 
vent swarming, I would furnish them to the hives being 
extracted. This plan will be found satisfactory in sea- 
sons when the yield is light. If, in a productive season a 
moderate increase is wanted, the last course recommended 
in Artificial Increase, should be adopted. Just the num- 
ber of combs that should be taken from each colony, and 
the frequency of the operation, to prevent swarming, will 
depend materially upon circumstances, and demand some 
experience and close observation. The rule is, that an 
incomplete comb must occupy the center, directly in front 
of the entrance. 

Occasionally, a refractory colony will persist in a per- 
tinacious attempt to swarm. I have often met this emer- 
gency by changing its place at mid-day, when all were work- 
ing rapidly, with one that was being extracted. If there 
is no such colony, and a light one is found that does not 
take possession of the boxes, I exchange with that, often 
benefiting both. Eemember always, that this must not 
be done, except during rapid honey-gathering, as it would 
endanger the safety of the queen. At other than such 
times it may become necessary to remove larger quanti- 
ties of brood from such colonies, and supply empty combs 
or foundation. Otherwise, it is sometimes well to remove 
the boxes, and furnish combs for extracting. 

HINTS FOR EXCEPTIONAL SEASONS. 

Four seasons ago (1875) our honey harvest was very 
short ; swarming was decidedly unprofitable. Usual- 
ly but one swarm issued, and in such instances both 



172 BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY. 

old and new swarms scarcely stored enough honey for 
winter. In my own apiary I prevented all swarming, and 
m some cases, used cards of brood from one swarm to 
build up others. This was simply making one aid in fit- 
ting the other to gather surplus, that could not be other- 
wise secured during such an unfavorable period. The 
thoughtful bee-keeper may often turn such meager yields 
to profitable account by skilful and judicious manage- 
ment. If, by a little forethought and study, even one- 
half the usual amount be secured, the demand is increased 
by the scarcity, and the price is proportionally better, so 
that the income will not be so much reduced as may be 
supposed. It might be well indeed to diminish the num- 
ber of colonies in such emergencies, by uniting, and thus 
increase the working capacity of a less number to marked 
advantage. 



CHAPTER X. 

BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY. 

PUTTING ON BOXES. 

There is no operation connected with the care of bees 
that requires more experience and careful observation, 
than that of putting on and taking off boxes; for, to de- 
cide upon the precise time when boxes are needed, in- 
volves a nicety of judgment which long experience only 
can give. The proper date for supplying boxes will vary 
with the climate, strength of colonies, and yield of honey. 
While yet inexperienced I made sfcrious mistakes in plac- 
ing boxes upon my hives too early in the season. In this 
immediate section, the time when boxes will usually be 
needed upon the be*t swarms, occurs soon after raspberry 
aud clcwer begin to bloom. If, before the opening of the 



BOXING AND SITBPLUS HONEY. 173 

above mentioned blossoms, swarms are populous enough 
to occupy boxes, I find it advantageous to take cards of 
brood from them and exchange for empty combs in 
weaker swarms. Or, when there are facilities for adding 
an indefinite number of frames, as with the Quinby hive, 
I occasionally add an empty comb to the center of the 
brood-nest, which the queen will soon fill with eggs ; and 
in this way increase the force of working bees. I fre- 
quently add combs from time to time in this manner, un- 
til I have 10 or 12 frames containing brood in very many 
hives. 

As six combs are all that the hive requires when boxed, I 
remove all above that number, leaving only such as are well 
filled with brood, and then arrange the boxes in place. 
These surplus combs are of value in dividing colonies for 
increase, or for adding to hives designed for extracting, 
as directed in Chap. XI. If done at the proper time, the 
brood-chamber being diminished in size, and the remain- 
ing combs filled with maturing brood, the bees will at 
once enter the boxes and commence storing honey. If 
we desire box-honey to present the most attractive ap- 
pearance, it is essential that the boxes shall not be fur- 
nished until the bees are ready to begin work at once, and 
will fill tbem rapidly. If they are on too long before- 
hand, the bees are apt to round off the unfinished edges 
of the guide combs, and are more reluctant to begin work 
upon them. The number of boxes required will depend 
upon the strength of the colony and amount of forage. 
It is quite important that the bee-keeper can estimate the 
probable duration of the honey yield, as it draws to a 
close. When the first set of boxes is removed, they may 
be replaced with empty ones, but great care should be 
exercised not to add too many. It is quite a common 
error, even with experienced apiarians, to add boxes so 
late in the season as to be obliged to remove them when 
but partly filled, and badly soiled. These unfinished 



174 BOXIKG AKB SURPLUS HOKEY. 

combs are of value as guides in boxes the ensuing season. 
They may be removed from the boxes, the capping cut, 
and the honey taken out with the extractor. The bees 
should be allowed to have access to them, that they may 
remove all honey adhering to the cells. These combs 
need to be protected from dirt and dust. I advise, how- 
ever, that but a limited number of boxes be placed upon 
the hive, that all may be filled, and then devote the re- 
mainder of the season to securing new combs in the body 
of the hive, for use as guides. When built in frames they 
may be more readily extracted, and the soiling of boxes 
avoided. Or, if an extra supply of combs is desired, 
foundation may be furnished for the bees to build out for 
future use. If this is not desirable, empty combs may be 
added for extracting, or to be filled and reserved for the 
following season's operations, as suggested in the Chapter 
on Extracting. It is, of course, profitable to prolong their 
work in boxes, as long as they will complete them hand- 
somely. 

I usually put the first set of boxes on the top of the 
hive, and when partly filled, remove them to one side of 
the combs, and place a fresh set at the top. If the swarm 
is strong, and the flow of honey continues, these may be 
put at the other side in like manner, and the top refilled. 
If only a top-boxing hive is used, the first set may be 
raised before completion, and empty ones placed beneath, 
with holes in both top and bottom, to permit the free pas- 
sage of the bees. With swarming restricted, I have had 
thirty-two five-pound boxes upon several hives, in the en- 
tire number of which bees were so freely at work as to 
complete twenty-four of them at nearly the same time. 
Do not entertain the idea that all swarms will gather 
such amounts. It will frequently occur that some 
swarms will not occupy all the boxes furnished, or they 
may discontinue work before they are completed. These 
may often be removed, and given to such colonies as will 



BOXING AND SUEPLUS HONEY. 175 

be likely to finish them. Many bee-keepers meet this 
emergency by feeding extracted honey of good quality 
very freely, thus stimulating the bees to renewed exer- 
tion. Directions on this point will be found in the Chap- 
ter on Feeding. 

One of the prime essentials in boxing is ease of access 
from the body of the hive. It is true, that when boxes 
are very accessible, the queen will at times enter them, 
and deposit eggs therein, yet the advantages of this prox- 
imity are so great that this objection is more than coun- 
terbalanced. Where but few brood-cells appear, they may 
be removed, but if nearly filled with brood, the boxes 
should be placed where the bees may hatch and enter the 
hive. The honey-board as mentioned in connection with 
the use of two-comb boxes should not be more than */ 4 
in. thick. One reason why so little box-honey can be 
secured from box-hives, lies in the fact that the bees must 
pass through holes in the top of the hive, which is gen- 
erally an inch thick. 

REMOVING BOXES. 

All boxes should be promptly removed as soon as full. 
Thus the boxes will not be soiled, and the delicate white- 
ness of the combs will be unsullied by the frequent pass- 
ing of the bees over them. I prefer to perform the oper- 
ation in the middle of the day, for they then contain the 
fewest bees, but it may be done at any time. Place the 
box near the entrance of the hive, and tap it gently a few 
times, when the bees will usually all leave it. If any 
bees are indisposed to leave, and there are large numbers 
of boxes to be cared for, they may be arranged in a pile, 
so that all bees can escape, in a closed room, and a caged 
queen placed in a nucleus box among them, when they 
will all gather with the queen. In bringing home large 
quantities of box-honey from apiaries away from home, I 
have often in this manner preserved bees that lack of 



176 BOXING AND SUBPLUS HONEY. 

time would not allow me to remove before leaving the 
yard. These may be utilized by making a nucleus for 
queen-rearing, or strengthening some weak stock. With 
the section box that is not glassed before being filled, 
there is little trouble in removing the bees, as they may 
be easily shaken or brushed off. The smoker is particu* 
larly serviceable in these various operations with boxes. 

CARE OF BOX HONEY. 

At this busy season, when the time of the bee-keeper is 
so wholly occupied, the honey must be cared for as 
quickly as possible, and placed where it may remain until 
it is to be prepared for market. As each box is taken 
from the hive, it should be examined to ascertain if any 
cells contain bee-bread. Such boxes should be kept by 
themselves, where they may be looked to frequently, as 
moth- worms are much more liable to be found in them. 
Honey should be kept in a dry, cool, dark room. If it 
could be located on the north side of a building, where 
the sun's rays would not strike it, it would be preferable. 
When packing away, let the boxes occupy the same posi- 
tion, vertically, as when upon the hive. If ths room is 
cool, there will be little danger of injury from the larvse 
of the moth, yet it should be occasionally examined, and 
if any are found, let them be removed at once. If they 
are discovered between combs, where they are not acces- 
sible, they may be destroyed by the fumes of brimstone. 

Put the boxes, with the holes open, in a close barrel or 
box that will confine the air as much as possible. Leave 
a place for a dish, in which to burn some sulphur matches 
made by dipping paper or rags in melted brimstone. 
When all is ready, ignite the matches, and cover closely 
for several hours. A little care is necessary to use the 
right quantity ; too little will not kill the larvae, and too 
much injures the color of the combs. In making the 



BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY. 177 

matches, much less sulphur will adhere to paper, when it 
is very hot, than when just above the temperature neces- 
sary to melt it. 

If it were not for the fact that the moth-larvae are 
much more liable to be troublesome, it would be beneficial 
to keep box-honey in a moderately warm room, as a higher 
temperature would facilitate its perfect ripening. 

Mr. Gr. M. Doolittle approves of placing it in a room, 
on the sunny side of the house, where it will be subject 
to a high temperature. He arranges his boxes on a 
rack designed for the purpose, so that the fumes of brim- 
stone, which he burns in the room, will come in contact 
with every comb. The heat of the room will soon ad- 
vance the brood of the moth. This plan has some spe- 
cial features to recommend it, as it does not involve an 
examination of the boxes to ascertain their condition. 
Besides, it practically rids them of all moth-eggs, so that 
none are left to hatch and make their appearance after 
the honey passes into the dealer's hands. 

PRESENCE OF LARV^. 

The question is naturally suggested at this point, 
" How does the moth get into the box to lay her eggs ? " 
I cannot answer this better than by quoting Mr. Quinby's 
words : " I have taken off glass jars of honey, and 
watched them until the bees were all out, and was certain 
the moth did not come near them ; then, immediately 
sealed them up, absolutely preventing any access, and felt 
quite sure that I should have no trouble with the moth- 
larvae. But I was sadly mistaken. In a few days, I 
could see a little white dust, like flour, on the side of the 
combs, and bottom of the jar. As the larvae grew larger, 
this dust was coarser. By looking closely at the combs, a 
small, white thread-like line could be perceived, enlarg- 
ing as the -larvae- pro^mssA«i The reader would like to 



178 BOXING AID SURPLUS HONEY. 

know how they came in the jars, when to all appearance, 
it was a physical impossibility. I would like to give a 
positive answer, but cannot. I will offer a theory, how- 
ever, which is original, and therefore open to criticism. 
If there is any better solution of the problem, I would be 
glad to hear it. From the 1st of June until late in the 
fall, the moth may be found around our hives, active at 
night but quiet by day. Her only object, probably^ is to 
find a suitable place to deposit her eggs, where her young 
may have food. If no proper and convenient place is 
found, she will be content with such as she can find. The 
eggs must be deposited somewhere, and she leaves them 
in the cracks of the hive, in the dust at the bottom, or out- 
side as near the entrance as she dare approach. The bees 
running over them may accidentally attach one or more 
to their feet or bodies, and carry them among the combs 
where they will be left to hatch. It is not at all probable 
that the moth ever passed through the hive, among the 
bees, to deposit her eggs in the jars before mentioned. 
Had these jars been left on the hive, not a larvae would 
have ever defaced a comb ; because, when the bees are 
numerous, each one is removed as soon as it commences 
its work of destruction — that is, .when it works on the 
surface, as it does in the boxes. By taking off these jars, 
and removing the bees, all the eggs that happened to be 
there had a fair chance." 

SUGGESTIONS FOR SECURING CHOICE SPECIMENS OF 
HONEY. 

It is often desirable to secure some very choice speci- 
mens of honey, for exhibition or other special purposes. 
As the suggestions given will also indicate some points 
that will be useful in general practice, they may be of 
value to all beginners. The first consideration is to select 
a time when that class of blossoms which produces the 



BOXING AND SUKPLTJS HONEY. 179 

finest honey, furnishes a profuse supply. In this section, 
this bloom would be basswood. Next, the fact that when 
honey is gathered and combs constructed most rapidly, 
the appearance is most superior, indicates that a vigorous 
colony should be chosen. 

For reasons given in Chap. II. , native bees should be 
selected, if box-honey is to be produced ; and Italians for 
extracted. A new, clean hive should be prepared, and 
the frames supplied with full cards of foundation. Let 
this hive take the place of the colony chosen ; then shake 
all the bees into it. Neatness in and about the hive ia 
very important. Do not allow the bees even to pass over 
an old and soiled alighting board, but give them a new 
one. If dust is flying to any extent, brush it off of the 
board frequently. The effect upon the color of new combg 
when built between old and dark combs, is more than 
would at first be supposed. I have had full cards of new 
combs built with great rapidity in this way, when they 
were too dark to be used as guides in boxes. In prepar- 
ing boxes, observe perfect neatness, and use the purest 
white comb for guides, not more than 2 inches X l 1 /, inch 
in size. Worker comb will present the finest appearance. 
If all the requirements have been attended to, the founda- 
tions will be drawn out in 48 hours, sufficiently to warrant 
putting the boxes in place. If to be extracted, the combs 
will soon be ready to empty. 

Where the brood-nest may be reduced at pleasure, I 
should limit the space so as to crowd the bees into the 
boxes ; as they should commence work as soon as they 
have access to them. The boxes should be removed as 
soon as filled. The care and neatness here inculcated 
will, if habitual, have a perceptible effect upon the ap- 
pearance and reputation of the products of our apiaries. 



180 THE HOKET EXTRACTOR AND ITS USB. 

CHAPTER XL 

THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE. 

ITS VALUE. 

Second only in importance to the invention of movable 
frames, is that of the machine for extracting liquid 
honey from the combs. It was invented by Herr Hrus- 





ADJUSTABLE FRAME 
BEST. 



Fig, 67.— -UNITED STATES STANDARD EXTRACTOR. 

chka, of Germany, in 1868. The simple words, "centri- 
fugal force," solved the problem, and taught us all how 
short a step it often is from obscurity to light. Mr. 
Langstroth had a glimmering of it, ten years before, 
when he wrote, " If store combs could be made of gutta 
percha, they might be emptied of their contents, and re- 



THE HOKEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE. 



181 



turned to the hive." Without the movable frame, it 
would be impracticable to extract the honey, and without 
the honey extractor, some of the most important results 
from the use of movable combs, would be lost. I 
deem the extractor an absolute necessity in every well 
conducted apiary, and great honor is due to him who 
first demonstrated its practicability. The principle of 
the honey extractor I am glad to say, is unpatentable in 
America. There are several forms now in use, some of 
which are patented, but these are in no material feature 
superior to those that are not patented. 

DESCRIPTION - . 

The principle upon which the extractors operate, is es- 
sentially the same in all. A reel is made (see fig. 67, a,) 
of a suitable size for the frame to be used, around which 
tinned wire-cloth of one-quarter inch mesh, is tightly 
stretched and secure- 
ly nailed. A can 
of heavy tin, with a 
stout iron band a- 
round the top to 
strengthen it, is made 
large enough to hold 
the reel, allowing a- 
bout one-inch play 
between it and the 
can. There should 
be at least 4 inches 
space beneath the 
lower part of the reel, 
at the bottom of the 
can, to hold the 
honey. A honey-gate 
is attached to the lower part of the can. A gearing and 
crank are attached to give the reel the required motion, 




Fig. 68. — muth's honey extractor. 



182 



THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE. 



The reel is fitted into a socket at tlie bottom (fig. 67, a.) 
A comb rest (see b, fig. 67), is useful to bold small pieces 
of comb, when it is desired to extract less than whole 
cards. There are two modes of gearing, flat and upright, 
the first of which is shown in fig, 67. The figure is an 
illustration of the U. S. Standard Extractor, made by 
E. T. Lewis & Co., Toledo, Ohio. The upright gearing 
(fig. 68) is equally practical and much preferred by some. 
The best of this class is manufactured by C. F. Muth, 
Cincinnati, Ohio, who deserves credit for many desirable 
features in this extractor. 

Stanley's automatic extractor. 

G. W. Stanley & 
Brother, of Wyo- 
ming, N. Y. , are per- 
fecting an extract- 
or which they claim 
will turn the combs 
in the reel without 
the aid of the oper- 
ator, as their posi- 
tion is changed by 
the motion of the 
revolving frame (see 
fig. 68, a). This is a 
valuable feature in 
an Extractor, and 
o n e of which we 

Fig. 68, «.— STANLEY'S AUTOMATIC HONEY h^Ve lOng felt the 

extractor. need. 




the use of the honey extractor. 

The extent to which the extractor should be used, will 

depend much upon the market for extracted honey. If 

the demand was for both box and extracted honey, I 

should furnish both. Bee-keeping can be conducted very 



THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE. ,183 

satisfactorily where all the surplus honey is taken with 
the extractor. In fact, I should much prefer this method 
of securing the surplus, if consumers demanded it. This 
system is much better adapted to all kinds of seasons 
than that which involves boxing. By it, swarming 
may be easily controlled, and if the season closes more 
abruptly than is expected, the annoyance of a great num- 
ber of incomplete boxes is avoided. 

Brood rearing is continued more extensively late in the 
season, in hives that have been extracted, consequently 
such hives are found to contain a larger supply of young 
bees when put in winter quarters. I have taken both box 
and extracted honey largely from the same apiary, for 
several years, when the conditions were, in all respects, 
equally favorable to the production of both, and have 
had ample opportunity for noting results. 

WHEN TO EXTEACT. 

It is seldom necessary to use the extractor until the 
general honey yield commences. The honey furnished 
by the early blossoms, including that from apple, and 
other fruit bloom, is usually required for breeding. If 
occasionally a hive contains too much honey, there will 
be others so light that combs should be exchanged. 
There may be instances where they were so heavy in the 
fall, and the bees consumed so little during winter, that 
to facilitate brood-rearing, it would be necessary to ex- 
tract the honey from the center combs in order to make 
room for the deposition of eggs. 

ARRANGING HIVES FOR EXTRACTING. 

If we are to receive the best returns for the labor and 
outlay expended, it will be necessary to supply the swarms 
to be extracted with extra combs. If the hanging- 
frame hive is used, an extra hive should be filled with 



184 



THE HOKEY EXTRACTOR AKD ITS USB. 



combs, and placed beneath the colony (fig. 69). For hold- 
ing these hives together, the fastener illustrated in fig. 




Fig. 69. — A TWO-STORY HIVE. 

70 is very useful. * In the new Quinby hive we can place 
16 combs side by side. I have reached satisfactory re- 
sults with both kinds of hive. In case no extra combs 





Fig. 70.— van deusen's clasp. 

are available, frames containing foundation must be added 
as fast as the bees will complete them, until the required 

♦This was invented by C. C. Van Deusen, and is an excellent device for 
securing hives to the bottom-board, and for many other purposes. When not 
in use it may be turned back against a screw-head, when it will be entirely oul 
©f the way, as indicated in fig. 70. 



THE HOiTET EXTKACTOK AND ITS USE. 185 

number is obtained. This indicates the wisdom of em- 
ploying the bees, at intervals when their labor is not 
directed towards surplus, in building such combs foi 
future use, as elsewhere suggested. 

HOW TO EXTEACT. ^ 

If one or two empty frames are at hand, place them in 
an empty hive. Remove the hive to be extracted from 
its stand, and put this empty hive in its place. Open the 
hive that has been removed, find and cage the queen, and 
place her in the empty hive on the old stand. Now shake 
and brush the bees from the combs in front of the empty 
hive, and take the combs to the room where the extract- 
ing is to be done. With the honey knife, remove all cap- 
ping from both sides, where the honey is sealed over. 
The knife must be drawn from heel to point, in order to 
cut the capping off smoothly, and avoid bruising the ends 
of the cells. After all the cells are uncapped, place two 
or four combs in the extractor, as it may hold, and turn 
it with sufficient speed to throw out all the honey. 
When the cells on one side are emptied, reverse them 
and extract the opposite side. Proceed in this way un- 
til all are emptied. Honey may be thrown from the 
most tender combs without injuring them. When ex- 
tracting from old combs, we get no pollen or anything 
but the pure honey, thereby avoiding the impurities in- 
cident to old fashioned strained honey. The inexperi- 
enced should carefully observe the speed requisite to throw 
out the honey, and where there are brood-combs, avoid 
turning fast enough to dislodge the brood. 

Some writers claim that it is not practicable to extract 
combs which contain any brood. I have practised it 
freely, and when it is done judiciously, I see no harm re- 
sulting, while several desirable ends are accomplished. 
I do not wish any honey that has been in the hive one 



186 THE HONEY EXTEACTOE AND ITS USB. 

winter to remain sealed, and to be kept over until an- 
other winter; thorough extracting will avoid this. 
Brood-rearing is stimulated by extracting the brood- 
combs. Such combs in the brood-nest as are designed 
for winter stores, should not be extracted too late in the 
season, as late-gathered honey is not usually so desirable 
for winter consumption. In changing hives, as here- 
after directed, and extracting all the combs, a marked ad- 
vantage will be derived in the expulsion and destruction 
of every moth-worm. In uncapping honey in brood- 
combs, use care not to disturb the cells containing brood. 
A little caution is all that is necessary, as the honey-cells 
are usually lengthened out more than the brood-cells. 

After the combs are all extracted they should be arrang- 
ed in the hive in the same order as before. If still more 
hives are to be extracted, this hive may be used, in the 
process of changing, as above alluded to. Eemove the 
next hive to be operated with, put No. 1 in its place, 
and shake all the bees before it, when they will enter, and 
work with even more energy than before the operation. 
Extract the combs from this, and proceed to the next in 
the same manner. When the round is completed, place 
the last hive and its contents upon the stand of No. 1, 
now occupied by an empty hive and bees, shake the bees 
into it, and release the queen. 

In extracting, I notice the condition of each colony. 
If the first one is populous, containing a large amount of 
brood, I select for the second, one that has less bees, as 
in this way the brood furnished them, will place them in 
better condition. The next swarm selected, should be 
more populous, and so on. This equalization benefits all, 
giving the weaker ones more working force, and the 
better ones more room for stores. When the general 
harvest begins, I prefer that all the honey then in the hive 
be extracted and kept by itself, thus preventing all mixing 
of light and dark honey. A little care in observing the 



THE HOKEY EXTRACTOR AKD ITS USE. 187 

cessation of the yield from different kinds of flowers, 
will enable the apiarian to keep different qualities of honey 
separate, the advantage of whioh is self-evident. 

CURING EXTRACTED HOKET. 

Much has been said against the practice of extracting 
what is termed nnripe honey. It is maintained that the 
honey must remain in the combs until well cured and 
capped over. I have refrained from committing myself 
on this point, until I could speak from years of experi- 
mental knowledge. I have extracted honey in every 
stage, from that which was gathered the same day, to 
that which was sealed over ; and I shall advise extracting 
honey before it is sealed. Much labor is saved to the 
bees, in not being obliged to cap the cells, and the opera- 
tor is spared the trouble of uncapping them. If the 
honey is properly cared for, it will be found to be equally 
fine, without regard to the ripeness when extracted. Cur- 
ing honey simply means a proper evaporation of the 
water it contains. This is accomplished in the hive by 
its being subjected to a high degree of temperature be- 
fore it is sealed. The same result may be produced, by 
maintaining similar conditions, after it is extracted. I 
have extracted honey in wet seasons, when it was unusu- 
ally thin, and found it necessary to place the cans in arti- 
ficial heat, until it was sufficiently evaporated. 

Honey is very often injured by being stored in a 
wooden cask or pail in a damp place. It should be kept 
in tin, or, if in wood, the vessel should be first coated in- 
side with wax. The process of coating casks is given in 
Chapter XVI. , on Marketing Honey. 

Honey should always be kept in a dry room. If stored 
in a cask which has first been coated with wax, the hole 
through which it is filled should be left open. For some 
years, I have marketed my extracted honey in tin cans. 



188 



THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS TTSE. 



When taken from the extractors, it is strained through a 
thin cloth, into a tin vat with a large faucet at the bot- 
tom. All specks rise to 
the top, and the ship- 
ping cans are filled 
by drawing the honey 
through the gate at the 
bottom. Honey may be 
more thoroughly cured 
by passing over an evap- 
orator as shown in fig. 
71. The evaporator is 
so constructed that the 
surface over which the honey passes, is heated by water 
raised to a proper temperature, which should not ex- 
ceed 140°. 

HONEY KNIEE. 




Fig. 71.— EVAPORATOR. 



In 1870, we extracted very extensively, and in using 
the straight honey knife or uncapping knife, which up to 

that time was the only 
one in use (fig. 72), we 
found that for rough 

Fig. 72.— STRAIGHT HONEY KNIFE. , , 

and uneven combs, as 
well as for rapid execution upon smooth combs, it was 
not of the most convenient shape. During that season, 
we experimented to some ex- 
tent with knives bent in a 
great variety of forms, which 
resulted in the invention of the 
curved-pointed honey knife 
(fig. 73). The fact that so many have adopted it ; (some 
so cordially as to endeavor to make themselves and others 
believe that they originated it), is ample proof of its 



Fig. 73. 

CURVED-POINTED HONEY KNIFE. 



THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE. 1S9 

merit. Those who are familiar with its history will 
remember that the first curved-pointed honey knives 
that appeared in market, bore the stamp of " Quinby ^ 
and Boot." 

SECURING EXTRA COMBS OF HONEY. 

Extracting as well as boxing should not be carried on 
too late in the season. The honey gathered in the fall, is 
generally of inferior quality. When less honey was pro- 
duced, and the price was good, the poorer qualities would 
sell at fair rates ; but, now, that the production is increas- 
ed, it must be of superior quality and offered in an attract- 
ive shape to command fair returns. I mention this to 
show that the later and poorer qualties of honey may be 
secured in suitable shape, and be of more value to the 
bee-keeper in the care of his bees, than if sold at reduced 
prices. To this end, then, cease extracting sufficiently 
early, and supply hives that are boxed, with empty combs, 
after boxes are filled with white honey. These extra 
combs, when filled with the inferior grades of honey, 
may be placed in a dry, cool place, and preserved for the 
following season's use. They will be found valuable in 
many operations, especially as suggested in the Chapter 
on Feeding. 

SECURING GUIDE COMBS. 

I often wonder where we formerly obtained guide- 
combs for our boxes in sufficient quantity, and of suita- 
ble quality, without the use of the extractor. I have 
practised placing two empty frames in each hive, one at 
each side of the brood-nest, and find that they will be 
filled each week.* When extracting, I remove these 
combs, and supply their place with empty frames. After 

* I am satisfied that the young bees secrete wax, and build combs at timee 
when they would otherwise be idle, making this a very economical method ot 
securing guides. 



190 WAX AND COMB. 

extracting the honey from them, I place them where the 
bees will thoroughly clean them of honey, and then pack 
them away in a dry, cool place, where they will not be- 
come soiled. They may be placed in a box of suitable 
size, with a door in the side, under a swarm, and should 
be removed as fast as cleaned. 

In Chapter X., on Boxing, another mode of securing 
guide combs is mentioned. I desire particularly to call 
attention to these practical methods, to show that with a 
little forethought, there is no necessity for using founda- 
tion in surplus boxes. 

RELATIVE AMOUNT OF BOX AND EXTRACTED HONEY. 

It is claimed by some that we may expect to secure 
twice as much extracted honey as box honey. This may 
be true in some cases, but when extracting a large num- 
ber of hives, I think it not safe to expect over one-third 
or one-half more. The price that each quality commands 
will determine which it is most profitable to produce. 



CHAPTER XII. 
WAX ANE COMB. 

WAX. 



During the summer season, when honey is being gath- 
ered rapidly, and combs must be constructed in which it 
may be deposited, the observing bee-keeper will 
notice scales of wax upon the under side of the 
abdomen of the bee, as seen in fig. 74. Wax is 
a natural secretion of the honey-bee and, as has 
been demonstrated by many of our most able 
apiarians, may be produced by feeding honey or 
syrup, even when the bees are confined to the 
These scales are detached from the body with the 




WAX AKD COMB. 191 

claws, and after being suitably moulded with the jaws 
of the bee, are used in the construction of honey-comb. 

HONEY-COMB. 

Nothing in the domestic economy of the bee-hive is 
better calculated to impress the observer with the won- 
derful instinct of the honey-bee than the process of 
comb-building. The ingenuity which the bees display in 
the fashioning of the delicate cells might well put human 
skill to the blush. Mr. Quinby says : 

" They need no lectures on domestic economy to tell 
them that the use of the base of one set of cells, on one 
side of the comb, for the base of those on the opposite 
side, will save both labor and wax ; no mathematician, 
that a pyramidal base, with just three angles, and just 
such an inclination, is the exact shape needed, and will 
take much less wax than if round or square, that the 
three-angled base of one cell, forms a part of the base of 
three other cells on the opposite side of the comb, that 
each of the six sides of one cell, forms one side of six 
others, that these angles and v these only would answer the 
ends required." 

The first rudiments of comb will often be found within 
the first half hour after a swarm is put in an empty hive, 
and I have seen bits of wax — as large as a pin's head, on a 
branch, where a swarm had been clustered for a less 
time than that. The first deposition of wax for the com- 
mencement of a comb seems to be much at random, until 
sufficient material is accumulated to begin the cells. 
While the combs are in progress, the bases of the cells 
near the edge are always kept much the thickest, and are 
worked down as they proceed. The edges of the cells, 
when completed, will always be found much thicker than 
other parts. When bees are allowed to build their combs 
without interference, they are quite unlikely to make 



192 WAX AND COMB. 

them as straight as is desirable ; and even when in frames 
a sharp edge, or guide, is furnished, they will need some 
attention to make them carry the combs straight to the 
bottom. The rapidity with which comb will be built, 
depends upon the temperature of the hive and amount of 
honey being gathered or fed. 

SIZE OF CELLS. 

Practically, all cells built for brood-rearing are assumed 
to be precisely of the same size, but close observation and 
measurements prove that there is a slight variation. This 
is so minute, however, that it does not materially affect 
the average number of cells to the square inch, which, in 
worker-combs, is 25 on each side. The diameter of 
worker-cells, therefore, averages about 1 / b of an inch. 
The depth is 7 / 16 of an inch. Drone cells are larger, so 
that four will about measure an inch, or 16 to the square 
inch. Their depth, when used for breeding, is about 9 / 16 
of an inch, but they are often much deeper when used for 
storing honey. 

Where drone and worker cells are built on the same 
comb, the joining of cells of different sizes will produce 
considerable irregularity, as may be seen in fig. 2. Even 
where two combs, with cells of the same size, unite, they 
are often quite imperfect. Queen cells are of exceptional 
size and shape, and are constructed according to the 
especial needs of the colony, and it is quite frequently the 
ease that a large number are never comple ted. (See fig. 66. ) 

HEXAGONAL SHAPE HOT ESSENTIAL. 

The introduction of comb-foundation and experiments 
with artificial comb, have resulted in a more thorough 
understanding of the essential size and form of cells. The 
shape of the natural cell is evidently determined more by 
considerations of economy, strength, and space, than by 



WAX AHD COMB. 



193 



the inherent necessities of the bee. It is proved by actual 
experiment that a cell with a flat base is equally as prac- 
tical as that with the three-angled base, constructed by 
the bee ; and I am confident that a round cell of suitable 
dimensions would answer their real wants as well as a 
hexagonal one. 

COST OF COMB. 

The cost of comb in labor and material is largely under- 
estimated. The amount of honey required to secrete a 
pound of wax, is generally thought to be not less than 15 
lbs., and some assume it to be as much as 25 lbs. Ad- 
mitting that no more than 15 lbs. is used, this expendi- 
ture is a sufficient argument for the exercise of careful 
supervision of the construction of combs, that none be 
built to a manifest disadvantage, as well as, that no part 
shall be allowed to go to waste. 

AKTIFICIAL COMB. 

While an artificial comb, with cells of the full depth, 
and practical in all respects, has not yet been offered for 
our consideration, I must 
express my belief that such 
will yet be made. In 1870 
Mr. Quinby experimented 
largely in this direction, and 
although complete success 
did not crown his efforts, he 
established some curious and 
interesting facts. He suc- 
ceeded in manufacturing 
combs of very light tin, as 
follows : Strips of tin were cut '/ 16 inch wide, and 
passed between two rollers (fig. 75), which were so con- 
structed as to crimp the tin into the exact shapo of -i 
half cell. 




Fig. 75. 

MACHINE FOR METALLIC COMB. 







194 WAX AND COMB. 

These strips were placed together, as shown in fig. 76. 
It will be seen that two opposite sides of each cell were 
composed of two thicknesses of tin. A sheet of this same 
light tin was used to form the flat base of the cells. After 
both sides were fitted, and secured, the whole was dipped 
in hot wax, and was then ready for use. The first piece 

tested was about four 
inches square, and was 
placed in the center of a 
frame of worker-comb, 
by cutting a hole of the 
desired size and fitting it 
in very exactly, so as to 
present an even surface. 

Fig. 76.-MANNER OF SETTING UP 'J^g wag pl aCe d at the 

METRIC COMB. center Qf the clugtei% 

where the queen occupied it, filling it with eggs, 
just as she did the natural cells adjoining; and in 
due time the young bees matured in both equally well. 
There were manifest advantages in combs so constructed. 
Worms certainly could not injure them and disturb the 
bees and brood ; but after thoroughly testing them, it was 
evident that the weight and expense of such combs would 
render them impracticable. The fact was demonstrated, 
however, that bees would accept and occupy combs of 
foreign material. The practicability of the flat base, as 
now used in comb-foundations, was here fully established. 
Combs were also made of very thin sheet-iron, untinned, 
and were readily occupied, for both honey and brood. 
The fact that these metallic foundations were not ob- 
noxious to the bees, was advance proof of the practicabili- 
ty of incorporating wire in wax foundation as since in- 
vented, and demonstrated by J. E. Hetherington. 

Another interesting item in these experiments was this. 
The first comb was made with cells 1 / 9 an inch deep. 
When the brood was sealed over in these cells the caps 



WAX AND COMB. 195 

were placed precisely l / 16 inch from their ends, thus 
showing the exact depth of natural cells. It was also 
curious to notice how readily the bees would lengthen the 
artificial cells with wax, when they were used for storing 
honey. In nearly every instance they were extended 
enough to allow them to be uncapped with the honey 
knife for extracting. These experiments are quite suffici- 
ent to incline me to the already expressed belief in the 
future success of complete artificial comb. 

SUPPLYING MATERIAL FOR COMB. 

The amount of honey and labor involved in the con- 
struction of natural comb, as previously indicated, shows 
the extreme desirability of, in some way, utilizing refuse 
wax, by converting it into perfect comb again, rather 
than to dispose of it at 30 cents per lb. It has often 
been noticed that, in warm weather, bees would bite off 
bits of wax from fragments of comb, and carry them into 
the hive to use in comb-building. I have been, for a 
long time, convinced, as I have since demonstrated, that 
this process might be facilitated by furnishing the wax in 
some feasible way. I have placed tender cappings, that 
had been taken from new combs when extracting, in 
feeders, where the bees had free access to them, at a time 
when they were building out foundations, and the wax so 
furnished was speedily appropriated by the bees and 
used in the completion of the combs. 

COMB-FOUNDATION. 

It is difficult to understand why comb-foundation has 
received so little- attention during the twenty or more 
years, since it was first brought to notice by our German 
friends. Prof. Cook states that the Germans first manu- 
factured it in 1857, by merely pressing sheets of wax be- 
tween flat, metal plates, stamped in such a way as to 



196 WAX AND COMB. 

simply leave the impression of the bases of the cells, with- 
out any start whatever, of the side-walls ; and he consid- 
ers this to be the extent to which they carried the work. 
This is corrected by E. Kretchmer, of Coburg, Iowa, who 
writes in the i ' American Bee Journal," of December, 
1878, as follows : " Comb-foundations were made in 
Germany in 1842 by my father ; they were made by a 
pair of engraved rollers, and starch was used to prevent 
the wax from adhering to the rollers." This statement 
is corroborated by Mr. Kretchmer 's " Gruide Book," pub- 
lished in 1868. The improvements which brought foun- 
dation into general use in America, are accredited to 
Frederick Weiss. A modern comb-foundation machine 
consists of two rollers so accurately engraved that by 
passing thin sheets of wax between them, not only the 
base of the cell is formed, but also the rim or beginning 
of the side- walls. 

Comb-foundation has of late been receiving the careful 
attention of many skilled workmen and thorough manu- 
facturers. 

In the construction of machines for making founda- 
tions with the natural or hexagonal base, I think I am 
justified in saying that in perfection of workmanship, J. 
Yandervort, of Laceyville, Pa., stands at the head. His 
machine for making a light quality of foundation, shown 
in fig. 77, is acknowledged to be the most perfect one for 
the purpose ever made. He claims it to be the only ma- 
chine that will make foundation with natural base as 
light as twelve square feet to the pound. Messrs. Dadant 
& Son, Hamilton, Ills., who are high authority, as they 
unquestionably manufacture the best grade of natural 
base foundation in America, use it in preference to any 
other. ■■'■;■ 

I feel certain that the heavy grades of this make for 
brood frames will also take a prominent position. Mr. 
Vandervort deserves patronage from the fact that while 



WAX AND COMB. 



197 



he gives us a better machine, he also gives, us a cheaper 
one. 

Mrs. Frances Dunham, of De Pere, Wis., is the inven- 
tor of a machine which is at present very popular for 
making foundation for brood combs. It is believed by 
many to be the best heavy foundation machine ever made. 

Mr. A. I. Boot, of 
Medina, Ohio, has 
done good work in 
his way in bringing 
foundation into pub- 
lic notice. 

Mr. Pelham, of 
Maysville, Ky., has 
made a foundation 
machine which differs 
somewhat in con- 
struction from others, 
and has desirable 
features. 

D. S. Given & Co., 
Hoopeston, Ills., have 
invented a machine 




Fig. 77 



-VANDERVORT'S COMB FOUNDA- 
TION MACHINE. 



upon a somewhat different principle from all others, called 
the "Given Foundation Press" (see fig. 78.) This kind 
of foundation is thought by some to be especially fine, 
and the Press is coming into quite general use. 

FLAT-BOTTOM FOUNDATION. 

The construction of this foundation is such that it can 
be much more easily made in large sheets than that with 
hexagonal base. The manufacturers can furnish it both 
light and heavy in sheets 15x30 inches, or larger, which 
cannot be claimed for any other make of foundation. 

The form of the base of the cell also makes it more 
practical to incorporate the fine wire ;whick;is used in 



198 



WAX AND COMB. 



some of it. It can be made lighter than the natural 
base, and yet have the wires well covered with wax. Figure 




Fig. 78.— GIVEN FOUNDATION PRESS. 

79 shows a machine for making foundation of this kind. 
Comb-foundation has been so much improved that the 




Fig. 79.— MACHINE FOB MAKING WORKER-COMB FOUNDATION. 

liability of sagging is much diminished, yet in extremely 
warm weather, and under certain circumstances, it will sag, 




WAX AND COMB. 199 

To obviate this many consider wire essential. I esteem 
foundation thus supported, valuable from the aid the 
wires give the completed 
combs, rendering them 
less liable to be broken 
from the frames while 
handling. Flat bottom 
foundation and the pro- 
cess of incorporating wire 
(see fig. 79, a) were invent- Fi ^ 79 > *-*>™>a™» with wire 3 . 
ed and patented by Capt. J. E. Hetherington, the well- 
known and extensive apiarian, and is now controlled by 
J. VanDeusen & Sons, Sprout Brook, 1ST. Y., who are the 
sole manufacturers. 

USES AND VALUE OF FOUNDATION. 

Foundation would be valuable, if only used as guides 
in frames, as it would be a means of securing straight 
combs. But its full worth is best appreciated, when com- 
plete frames of it are put into the brood-nest. The value 
of full cards of perfect worker-comb cannot be over-esti- 
mated, and in no other way can they be so economically 
produced. We are also able to entirely control the quan- 
tity of worker-comb, and exclude drone-comb at pleasure. 
The value of foundations in hastening the increase of 
bees, is apparent. Those without a supply of empty 
combs, may, during the spring months, use foundations 
to advantage. I have, when transferring, thus filled up a 
desired number of frames and placed them in the center 
of a strong colony when apple-blossoms were yielding 
honey. In 48 hours, the cells were drawn out, and filled 
with eggs. It is clear that the value of the bees reared in 
such combs, in advance of those that could not be ma- 
tured until natural combs were built, would more than 
equal the cost of the foundations. 

If honey is being gathered rapidly, I should pronounce 
good foundations at such times, superior to empty combs. 



200 WAX AND COMB. 

If the cells are complete, the bees are more apt to fill 
them with honey, thus limiting the space of the queen 
for egg-laying ; but as foundation cells are drawn out, she 
will occupy a larger proportion of them, during the pro- 
cess. If drone-combs are desired for extracting, or other 
purposes, drone-comb foundation maybe procured. 

FOUNDATION IN SUEPLUS BOXES. 

Many advocate the use of comb-foundation for guides 
in boxes. It is manufactured for this purpose, of a very 
light weight. I have samples before me, so delicate that 
16 square feet weigh but 1 lb. I have, from the outset, 
opposed the use of anything artificial in honey boxes, and 
receive daily proof of the soundness of my position. 

Prof. Cook's remarks upon this subject in his " Man- 
ual," are pertinent and wise. He says, " It will not be 
well to have the word ' artificial ' hitched on to our 
comb-honey. I think it exceedingly wise to maintain in- 
violate in the public mind, the idea that comb-honey is, 
par excellence, a natural product." 

While I think there are good reasons for adhering to 
the stand taken above, I must consider fairly the points 
in favor of using foundation in this way. That a larger 
amount of honey can be secured by its use is indisputa- 
ble. That the combs built in boxes in which full cards 
of foundation have been placed, are much handsomer 
cannot be denied. Another advantage is that the foun- 
dation gives strength to the comb, which enables us to 
ship it with more safety. While these are undeniable 
facts, the truth in my own position as above alluded to, 
as well as in that of Prof. Cook, is worthy of considera- 
tion. Time alone can determine the ultimate result. 

TO FASTEN FOUNDATION IN FRAMES. 

Foundation may be secured by laying the end of the 
sheet on the under side of the top bar, and nailing upon 



WAX AND COMB. 201 

it a thin strip of wood, one-half as wide as th? bar, even 
with one edge of it, so that when the frame is raised t<* 
an upright position the foundation will turn down against 
the strip, and hang directly in the center of the frame. 
C. C. Van Deusen says that he finds it practicable with 
the wired foundation to cut off with a pair of wooden 
shears about [ / 4 inch of the edge of the sheet that is to go 
next to the top-bar. The shears will only cut away the 
wax, and leave the ends of the wdre exposed. He bends 
these ends to a right angle with the sheet, and glues them 
to the bar in the proper position. I consider the latter 
method the best. Foundations to be placed in frames 
should be cut so that they will come within 1 / a inch of 
the sides, or l / 4 inch of the bottom. I cut them most 
satisfactorily by laying a thin board of the required size 
upon the sheets, and cutting around the edge with a 
sharp knife. After a little experience this method if 
rapid and easy. 

Foundation is easily fastened in boxes with white glue. 
Several machines have been invented for securing foun- 
dation in both frames and surplus boxes, which promise 
to be extremely satisfactory. There is no doubt of their 
becoming indispensable in a very short time. The best 
known of these implements are "Parker's Machine," 
and "Goodrich's Foundation Fastener." I should have 
been very much pleased to illustrate these, if space had 
permitted. 

EENDERIKG WAX. 

The ordinary process of rendering wax as hitherto 
practised, has not only been vexatious, but wasteful, and 
I shall, therefore, pass it unnoticed, and give the more 
convenient and economical methods. The most approved 
plan is by the use of a wax-extractor. The first one I 
shall describe is a foreign invention, which was first made 



202 



WAX AOT COMB. 




by Professor Gerster, of Switzerland. The usual size of this 
is as follows : A can is made about one foot high, and the 
same in diameter, with suitable lid and handles. The 
bottom consists of a shallow basin or pan, similar to a 
pie-tin, made about 1 inch smaller than the can, with 
a rim 1 inch high. This is fastened near the bottom 
of the can, with arms, in such a manner that it stands at 
the distance of half an inch from all sides of the can, 

with one side a little 
elevated, so that the 
melted wax will run 
to one side, where a 
small tube or spout 
passing through the 
side of the can, is in- 
serted to carry it off. 
A basket of wire-cloth 
or perforated tin is 
made 1 inch smaller 
than the shallow bottom, and high enough to reach 
nearly to the top of the can. Three bearings are 
arranged on the inside of the bottom, upon which 
the perforated basket may rest, at a distance of */, inch 
from the bottom, and all sides of the can. This com- 
pletes the extractor, which is shown in figure 80. To 
render wax in this extractor, place it upon the stove, over 
a kettle partly filled with water, in the same manner as 
an ordinary kitchen steamer. Ml the perforated basket 
with the refuse comb or wax, cover tightly with the lid, 
and place a pan under the spout to catch the wax as it 
runs out. As fast as it melts, more may be added, until 
all is rendered. 

The latest and best wax extractor which has been 
brought to my notice was invented by D. A. Jones, of 
Beeton, Ontario, Canada. I have tested it very thor- 



Mg. 80.— SWISS WAX EXTRACTOR. 



WAX AND COMB. 203 

oughly and I like it the best of any extractor that I have 
ever used. (See fig. 81). 

In moulding wax into cakes, use a deep basin, and 
when cooL if any impurities are found upon the bottom, 




Fig. 81.— JONES* WAX EXTBACTOB. 

shave them off, and melt this portion again. Combs de- 
signed for this purpose should be cared for often enough, 
to prevent the worms from getting in and spoiling them. 
The extractor is a convenient utensil for holding all bits 
of refuse wax, and fragments of comb. Dippers, pans, 
and other implements used in rendering wax,, become 
coated with it, and are not easily cleaned. 



204 FEEDING. 

CHAPTEK XIII. 
FEEDING. 

ITS NECESSITY. 

The subject of feeding bees is, latterly, receiving more 
attention than has hitherto been deemed essential. It 
may be easily demonstrated, that with intelligent man- 
agement in the best locations, and most favorable seasons, 
no feeding is necessary. ? 

In 1869, our stock of bees numbered 415 swarms, and 
the exigencies of the season were such, that when it was 
over, only six colonies had . enough honey to , carry them 
through the winter, and one-half of the whole -number 
had none at all. We fed 5,500 lbs. of honey and sugar, 
for the winter, besides what we gave them during the 
summer, to keep them alive, no honey being gathered, 
except from apple-blossoms. This was the most disas- 
trous year for bees, in Mr. Quinby's experience of forty 
years. Between this extreme, and that of not being 
obliged to feed at all, the necessity for supplying food 
will vary with the season. 

In 1874, I found feeding necessary from May 1st, until 
July 20th, before bees gathered honey enough to continue 
breeding profitably. And yet, after this date, I took an 
average of 100 lbs. of honey per hive, from my entire 
apiary, numbering 100 colonies, besides increasing the 
number to 119, and securing stores enough for winter. 
Here was an instance of a season opening very unfavor* 
ably and closing prosperously. 

The year 1875, presented exactly the reverse in many 
sections. From the first honey-gathering in spring, 
brood-rearing was stimulated by a moderate supply, and 
when the general yield began in July, the combs of best 






EEEDIHG. 205 

stocks were filled with brood. So well were they occu- 
pied, that there was no room for storing honey, except 
in boxes, and the amount of surplus was large, consider- 
ing the season. This result was largely due to the meas- 
ures adopted, as given in the Chapter on Increase. Fall 
forage entirely failed, and the consequence was, that 
when the combs were vacated by the brood, there was no 
honey to be gathered to fill them for winter, and the re- 
quisite supplies had to be furnished by feeding. It often 
happens that brood-rearing will progress finely during 
the time of apple-blossoms, between which and clover, 
etc., a period of scarcity will occur, when feeding will 
be absolutely indispensable. During cold and stormy 
days, when bees cannot go out for water or honey, feed- 
ing is essential. 

WHAT TO FEED. 

A good quality of honey, is undoubtedly good enough. 
Yet the continued experiments of our best bee-keepers, 
have given abundant proof that good sugar is equally 
suitable, and by some is claimed to be even better than 
honey. I have used it largely, comparing the results 
with honey fed at the same time, and find it to be satis- 
factory. As feeding occurs when honey is scarce, sugar 
is much less liable to induce robbing, making it in this 
respect much more desirable to use. The poorer grades 
of honey sell so low, that it is often cheaper to feed such 
honey than to purchase sugar for the purpose. Besides, 
the impurities and adulteration of sugar, at the present 
day, are making it quite undesirable. 

We are tending more and more each year to the prac- 
tice of feeding honey only, to our bees, and I shall wel- 
come the day when this will be the exclusive practice, 
thus avoiding the appearance, even, of any possibility of 
fraud in the quality of our surplus honey. 

Grape sugar and glucose have been advocated as a cheap 



206 FEEDING. 

food for wintering bees, and stimulating breeding, but 
my experience coincides with that of many of our best 
bee-keepers who condemn their use entirely. For winter- 
ing, it has proved an entire failure with me. 

PREPARING FOOD. 

As bees require water when rearing brood, the food fur- 
nished them at such times should contain more water than 
when it is to be sealed in combs for winter stores. Honey 
should be diluted by adding 1 pint of water, to 4 pounds of 
honey ; the mixture should then be scalded and skimmed. 

To prepare sugar, add 1 quart of water to 3 pounds of 
"A" sugar, bring to a boil, and skim. In selecting 
sugar, avoid such as contains impurities. That with a 
bluish tint is objectionable, as it often contains a foreign 
jubstance that will be found in the form of a sediment 
at the bottom of the vessel after dissolving it. We used 
large quantities of sugar thus adulterated, in the spring of 
1876, and the great loss of bees which followed, was evi- 
dently the result of some deleterious substance in the sugar. 
For fall feeding, when it is to be stored in the combs for 
winter use, honey need not be diluted, and the sugar syrup 
may be made with one quart of water to 4 pounds of sugar. 

FEEDERS. 

It is very necessary that feeders be so arranged that the 

bees have easy access to 
them, from the hive, and 
also, that bees from other 
hives shall not be attracted 
to them. A cheap and very 
practical feeder, which I 
use in connection with the 
Quinby hive, is shown in 

Fig. 82.-FEEDER ON PANEL. fig# ^ . % ^ & ^^ ^ 

cup, 3 in. deep, 5 in. long, and 2 in. wide. These 




FEEDING. 207 

dimensions can be varied to suit. In the center of 
one side, near the top, is a 3 / 4 -in. hole, and near each 
end, on either side of this hole, are two others, large 
enough to slip over a nail-head. 

In the panel, at the side of the Quinby frame, I bore a 
*/ 4 -in. hole to correspond with the one in the cup, and 
drive two small nails at proper distances each side, upon 
which to hang the feeder. A cap may be made to 
shut out bees from the outside. I lay a piece of glass over 
it, to be able to see when it is empty. These feeders are 
coated on the inside with a mixture of shellac and sand, 
that the roughness may give the bees a footing. A float 
is made of y g -inch board, and J / 4 inch smaller each way 
than the inner dimensions of the feeder. Across the 
underside of this, at each end, is a cleat 1 / i X 1 / e inch. 
This is nailed on with small tacks just long enough to 
clinch. If, in each end of the cleats, a tack is driven 
partially in, so that the head comes within l / s inch of the 
cleat, the float will rest upon the heads of these tacks 
when the feeder is about empty, and the bees will be able 
to pass under it. This will allow the bees to remove the 
food more completely than if it rested directly on the 
bottom. The fact should always be borne in mind, that 
bees should never have access to liquid honey, without 
something being placed in it to sustain them. 

The feeder above described, can be used in connection 
with the hanging-frame hive, in the spring, when each 
swarm contains but a limited number of frames, and a 
close-fitting division-board is used to economize space. 
A hole may be bored in this board, and the feeder ad- 
justed as above. 

For feeding at the top of the hive. I know of nothing 
better than the Van Deusen feeder (fig. 83). After fill- 
ing, it is inverted and placed over the opening on the top 
of the hive. Atmospheric pressure prevents the escape 
of the honey or syrup. If adjusted properly, the feeder 



208 



FEEDING. 



will prevent the escape of heat from the hive, and at the 
same time it occupies a warm position, which will aid the 
bees in securing the food. A very practical feeder may 
be made in a frame, and placed directly in the hive. 
We have arranged a bracket upon which this feeder may 
be placed. Locke's New Bee Feeder was invented by S. 
M. Locke, Salem, Mass., and has some desirable points. 
It is considered by many to be one of the very best 
feeders lately invented, (see fig. 83, a). 

Where extensive feeding to supply winter stores is nec- 
essary, a more rapid process is advantageous. We have 
practised putting the syrup or honey directly in the 





Fig. 83.— van deusen's feeder. Fig. 83, a. — looke's feeder. 



combs with satisfactory results, giving the entire amount 
necessary at one time. It may be done as follows : Take 
a can or tub about two feet across the top, in which place 
the syrup made as above directed. Then prepare a board 
a little wider than the depth of the frames, by nailing a 
strip on each edge, which shall project about one inch 
above it, to prevent the liquid from running off the sides 
of the board, and to conduct it back into the tub. Place 
one end of this board on the tub, and the other upon legs 
elevated enough above it so that the feed will run off 
freely (see fig. 84). Then in the bottom of a common 
quart-dipper, punch one-sixteenth inch holes, about three- 
eighths of an inch apart. Place the empty comb on the 
board, and dip up the syrup, letting it drain into the 



FEEDING. 



209 



cells. A little practice will indicate the distance it must 
fall, as there must be force enough to drive it to the bot- 
tom of the cell, and not so much as to cause it to spatter 
out. In turning the combs to fill opposite sides, care 
should be taken, or they may fall out of the frames. To 
prevent this, use a piece of thin board, the size of the 
frame, placing it under it while filling, and raise the 
comb with it to an upright position, and then place the 
board on the opposite side, and fill as before. As fast as 




Yig. 84.— FILLING COMBS FOR FEEDING. 

the combs are filled, set them up perpendicularly, where 
the extra syrup may drain off. These operations must 
be performed in a room where bees can make no trouble. 
Combs filled with syrup must be placed in the hives after 
the bees stop flying at night. After the required amount 
is put in the combs, it is well to weigh the whole again," 
to see that nothing is lost by robbing. If some hives are 
found to contain more than the necessary amount, heavy 
combs may be exchanged for light ones from other hives. 
One writer, in endorsing this method, approves of it, 



210 FEEDING. 

"because it saves the bees the labor of putting the 
honey in the cells. " But this is an error. The bees evi- 
dently remove it, and re-store it, probably to exclude the 
air, and secure a more thorough evaporation of the water. 

HONEY IN COMBS EOE SPRING FEEDING. 

A colony should never be without sealed honey during 
spring months. It is much easier to ascertain the presence 
of such h oney than that of uncapped honey. The last sealed 
honey in a comb will usually be at the top. By using a 
smoker, the bees may be driven from this part of the 
combs, and the amount of capped honey observed, with- 
out disturbing the frames. Any deficiency thus discov- 
ered may be supplied by furnishing combs of sealed honey, 
preserved for the purpose the previous season, as has been 
elsewhere suggested. I anticipate the extensive adoption 
of this plan of feeding. To stimulate breeding, it will 
only be necessary to break the capping of such combs by 
rubbing the edge of a knife over them, when the bees 
will remove the honey. 

FEEDING TO SECURE SURPLUS IN BETTER FORM. 

The practice of freely feeding extracted honey, to be 
stored in boxes, is becoming quite common. If a suita- 
ble time is chosen, and the weather is warm, it will be 
found advantageous when boxes are partly filled, and 
would not be otherwise completed. Strong colonies 
should be selected for the purpose, and should contain 
only such combs in the brood-nest, as are well filled 
with brood and honey, and but a limited number of 
frames. They should be fed as rapidly as they will ap- 
propriate the honey. For this purpose, a large feeder 
should be used. One holding at least 10 pounds would be 
preferable. 



FEEDING. 211 

HOHEY SHOULD BE WARM WHEN FED. 

Honey should never be taken from a cold room to feed, 
unless first warmed, especially when fed for storing in 
boxes. It should be as warm as when gathered by the 
bees in midsummer. This matter of temperature, and 
of feeding in the morning so that honey may be taken into 
the hive during the warmest hours of the day, have an im- 
portant bearing on successful feeding, for storage in boxes. 

Mr. Quinby and myself experimented largely in feeding 
in quite cold weather, by arranging the hives inside of a 
room, on the principle of the House Apiary, and furnish- 
ing artificial heat. While the experiment was not per- 
fectly successful, we proved the practicability of using arti- 
ficial heat when feeding, and for other purposes connect- 
ed with the House Apiary. When feeding to stimulate 
breeding, about one gill should be given regularly each 
evening. The bees should not be fed any more than 
they will consume, as it is undesirable to have syrup 
stored in the combs, at this season. In feeding for win- 
ter use, food may be given them as rapidly as they will 
store it. It is important that this be done early enough in 
the fall, to be properly sealed in the combs. In this lati- 
tude, it will be necessary to do it in September, or early in 
October. The greatest care must always be exercised in 
feeding, not to expose honey in any way, and thereby in- 
duce robbing. 

Since writing the above, I have experimented largely 
in feeding the different grades of sugar, and I attain the 
best results in using the lower grades. I much prefer 
the yellow "C." It seems to contain essential proper- 
ties not found in the more refined grades. 



#12 BOBBING. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

ROBBING. 
GENEBAL BEMABKS. 

Robbing is often a source of loss to the careless apiarian. 
It is frequent in spring, and at any time in warm weather, 
when there is a scarcity of honey. It is very annoying, 
and is sometimes a source of contention among neighbors, 
when perhaps neither is to blame, farther than for igno- 
rance. The person keeping the most bees, must expect to 
be held accountable for all the losses in the neighborhood, 
whether they occur from mismanagement, or want of 
management, and if he escapes without being charged 
with those losses due to hundreds of causes, he ought 
to be thankful. It is often thought if a person has but 
one stock, and another has ten, that the ten will combine 
to plunder the one. This conclusion is not warranted by 
facts ; I can discover no collusion between different fami- 
lies of the same apiary. It is true that when one colony 
finds another weak and defenceless, possessing treasures, 
they have no conscientious scruples about carrying them 
off to the last particle, notwithstanding that they revel in 
abundance at home ; and it is most frequently the case 
that the strongest colonies are most given to this despica- 
ble habit. The hurry and bustle attending the plunder, 
seldom escape the notice of other hives, and when one 
hive has been robbed, perhaps two-thirds or all of the 
other colonies have participated in the offence. 

When honey is being gathered largely from natural 
sources, little apprehension of robbing need be entertained. 
At such times honey may often be left exposed, without 
receiving the slightest attention from the bees. We have 
taken tons of honey with the extractor, in the open air, 
jvhen it was most freely exposed, without exciting their 



BOBBING. 213 

marauding propensities in the least. But if such temp- 
tations are placed before them in times of scarcity, par- 
ticularly in the spring, serious results may be anticipated. 
It is worth while to mention here, that if thievish habits 
are formed early in the season, by careless exposure of 
even trifling quantities of honey, bees will search for it 
more perseveringly, during the season, if it prove to be a 
poor one, than if, by strict care, they had beeu prevent- 
ed from acquiring the habit. Therefore, it should be a 
cardinal rule, for beginners, that honey, or broken up, 
discarded hives and frames, upon which particles of honey 
may remain, should not be accessible to the bees, at any 
time when they could possibly be demoralized thereby. 
Kobbing is often induced by leaving too large an en- 
trance open, or other unnecessary apertures, thus allow- 
ing outsiders too free access. 

Probably but few bee-keepers are able to know at once 
when bees are robbing. It requires the closest scrutiny 
to decide. There is nothing about the apiary more diffi- 
cult to determine ; nothing in which one is more likely 
to be deceived. It is generally supposed that when a 
number are fighting outside, it is conclusive that they are 
also robbing, which is seldom the case. On the contrary, 
a show of resistance indicates a strong colony, and that 
they are disposed to defend their treasures. A very weak 
colony of Italians will often make a spirited resistance. I 
have no fears for a stock that has courage to repel an at- 
tack. The greatest danger is with those weak colonies 
incapable of opposition. Such should at all times be 
closely watched, and the entrance more than usually con- 
tracted, that the bees may the more easily defend them- 
selves. Queenless colonies are much less vigorous in self 
defence. If there are colonies which have been wintered 
on their summer stands, or having been set out earlier in 
the season are thoroughly established, in the same or 
neighboring apiaries, care should be taken in setting out 



214 ROBBING. 

weak swarms, as in the confusion incident to the first 
flight they are in less defensible condition, and much 
more likely to attract pillagers than they will be later in 
the season. Let it be understood that all good stocks, 
under ordinary circumstances, will take care of them- 
selves. Nature has provided them with the means of 
defence, with instinct to direct its use. 

INDICATIONS OF ROBBING. 

In order to recognize the first indications of robbing at 
a glance, it will be necessary for the bee-keeper to be able 
to distinguish between old and young bees, and between 
those that are filled with honey and those that are not. 
Each robber, when leaving the hive, instead of flying in 
a direct line to its home, will turn its head towards the 
hive to mark the spot, that it may return for another 
load, in the same manner that bees do when leaving their 
own hive for the first time in the spring. When the 
young bees first leave home, they mark their location in 
the same manner. A few of these begin to hatch very 
early, in all good stocks, often before the weather is warm 
enough for any to leave the hive. These young bees will 
fly out very thickly about the middle of each fair day, or 
a little later. This unusual activity strongly resembles 
the bustle of robbers, and it is difficult to detect the dif- 
ference. Their motions are alike, but there is a little 
difference in color, the young bees being a shade lighter ; 
and the bodies of the robbers, when filled with honey, are 
a little larger. But while one is learning these nice dis- 
tinctions, his bees may be ruined. Bees, when they 
have been stealing honey from a neighboring hive, will 
generally run several inches from the entrance before fly- 
ing ; kill some of these ; if filled with honey, they are 
robbers ; for it is very suspicious to be filled with honey 
when leaving the hive ; or, if there are hut few colonies, 



ROBBING. 215 

mark the bees, sprinkling some flour on them as they 
come out, and let some one watch at the other hives to 
see if any of those with flour on them enter. The 
following is less trouble, but it will be longer before 
they are checked, if robbing. Visit them again in the 
course of half an hour or more, after the young bees have 
returned, and if the bustle continues or increases, it is 
time to interfere. When the entrance has been con- 
tracted, as directed, close it entirely until near sunset. If 
it has been left open, it should now be closed, giving 
room for only one bee at a time. This will allow all that 
belong to the hive to get in, and others to get out, and 
will materially retard the progress of the robbers. Un- 
less it should be cool, they will continue their operations 
until evening. This late working, by the way, is a good 
test of robbing. Visit the hives each warm evening, as 
they commence depredations on the warmest days, and 
seldom at any other time. If any are at work when 
honest laborers should be at home, they must be re- 
garded with suspicion. 

REMEDIES. 

The old saying, "An ounce of prevention is worth a 
pound of cure," is most applicable here. To keep stocks 
strong and capable of self defence, is the golden rule that 
would carry the beginner over these critical periods, when 
scarcity of honey and a little undue carelessness on his 
own part tempts the "busy bee" to take what he wants 
wherever he can find it. But in the best regulated api- 
aries we shall find colonies that need special care. When 
the mischief is begun, prompt measures must be insti- 
tuted. Mr. Quinby says : "I would recommend remov- 
ing the weak hive on the morning after the attack to the 
cellar, or some dark, cool place, until two or three days 
have passed, and the search has been abandoned. The 
jobbers will probably attack the stock on the next stand. 



216 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 

Contract the entrance of this according to the number ot 
bees to pass. If the colony is strong, no danger need be 
apprehended. When a hive has been removed, if the ad- 
joining one is weak, take that in also, to be returned as 
soon as the robbers will allow it. If a second attack is 
made, put the hives in again, and let them remain until 
the marauders cease their attempts. When robbers are 
endeavoring to effect an entrance into a hive, a little 
grass, or what is better, some asparagus tops, thrown 
loosely before the opening, will afford material hindrance, 
and when the attack ceases, it may be removed." 

I may add to these suggestions that when stocks are 
put in the cellar for protection, they may be entirely des- 
titute of stores, which deficiency must be supplied by 
feeding. 



CHAPTER XV. 

DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 

DYSENTERY. 

If proper conditions for wintering be observed, this dis- 
ease need not be feared. If honey is gathered late in the 
season, or is fed so late as not to be sealed up, it will tend 
to produce dysentery. A cold, damp cellar, where bees 
are unable to properly evaporate the moisture in their food, 
and undue disturbance, will also have the same tendency. 
A genuine case of dysentery can be produced in a very 
short time by combining these conditions. It may be de- 
tected by the soiling of the hive about the entrance. The 
combs will also often be soiled and injured. The bodies 
of bees thus affected will be found to be unusually dis- 
tended. When in this condition they should be allowed 
to fly, on the first favorable opportunity, in order that 



DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 217 

they may discharge their faeces. The wise bee-keeper 
will observe suitable precautions, and prevent the appear- 
ance of this evil. 

FOUL BROOD. 

During a large portion of Mr. Quinby's bee-keeping ex- 
perience, the evil of foul brood held so decided a foothold 
among the apiaries of American bee-keepers, that his time 
and attention were, for many years, greatly engrossed by 
its investigation. He was among the very first to become 
familiar with its appearance, his first observations being 
made as early as 1835. In the first editions of this work, 
he gave a minute account of his investigations into the 
cause or causes of the malady, and search for a prevent- 
ive ; and, although he never satisfied himself as to the 
cause, his persevering efforts in seeking remedies were re- 
warded with admirable success. In later years, and par- 
ticularly since the introduction of Italian stock into this 
country, the disease has abated so materially as to be of 
minor importance. Our last experience with it was in 
1870, and its final disappearance was somewhat remark- 
able, inasmuch as it seemed to vanish without any special 
effort on our part for its extinction. Several stocks that 
were somewhat infected, were marked to identify them, 
and placed in winter quarters, with the design of breaking 
them up in the spring ; but when removed from the cel- 
lar all traces of the disease had vanished, and the stocks 
remained healthy thereafter. I have seen but one case 
of foul brood since, and that a mild one. 

INDICATIONS OF FOUL BROOD. 

The cappings of the infected cells are somewhat sunken, 

with a small hole in the center. The disease only affects 

the immature brood before it reaches the chrysalis state. 

By an examination of the brood-cells it is easy to ascer- 

10 



218 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 

tain if any of the larvae be dead and putrid. Healthy 
larvae are always white, until some time after they assume 
the chrysalis form ; hence, if they are dark-colored, it in- 
dicates something wrong. Where the malady has made 
much headway, the unpleasant odor is ample evidence of 
its presence. 

KEMEDY. 

The first thing to be done is, -to confine the bees in an 
empty hive or box, set them in a dark, cool place, and let 
them remain there, at least twenty-four hours, that all 
the honey they carry with them, may be entirely con- 
sumed. There is no doubt but the honey from an in- 
fected hive, will carry the contagion to a new stock of 
brood. After sufficient time has elapsed to prevent this 
danger, the bees may be put into a hive filled with healthy 
combs, or foundation. The portions of comb contain- 
ing the diseased brood should be carefully cut out and 
buried, and the remainder converted into wax. If honey 
remains, it can be utilized for feeding, by thoroughly 
boiling and skimming it. A quart of water may be added 
to 10 lbs. of honey. The utmost vigilance must be con- 
stantly maintained to prevent any bees of other colonies 
from having access to the honey, combs, or hive of the 
diseased stock. The condemned hive may be cleansed 
completely by scalding it with boiling water and scrap- 
ing thoroughly. Exposure to the weather will usually 
complete the disinfection. 

DUE TO A FUNGOID GEOWTH. 

The researches of modern German investigators have 
shed much light upon the nature of this malady, and 
the view that it is a fungoid growth, propagated by 
means of the spores, or seed-vessels, is being adopted by 
many of our best bee-keepers. The same spirit of intej- 



DISEASES AND ENEMIES Off BEES. 219 

ligent inquiry to which we owe so many of our striking 
improvements, has provided a remedy with which I have 
no experience, but which I accept from good authority. • 

REMEDY. 

The remedy is Salicylic Acid, dissolved in alcohoi, 
or in a solution of Borax in water. Mr. Muth's 
recipe, as I quote from " Cook's Manual," is, one hun- 
dred and twenty-eight grains of Salicylic Acid, the same 
of Soda Borax, and sixteen ounces of Distilled Water. 
. This fluid is thrown in a fine spray over the combs, .the 
brood being previously uncapped. This is said to be 
harmless to the bees but fatal to the fungi. The same 
precautions are necessary as to the care of the honey, and 
*he confinement of the bees, as above stated. 

PARASITES. 

The statements of Prof. Packard, and other natural- 
ists, combined with my own observations, have led me to 
favor the view that the original cause of this disease is a 
parasite feeding upon the larvae, producing death and pu- 
trefaction. The small holes in the caps of the infected 
cells possess a significance in this connection. The re- 
markable diminution of this scourge within the past few 
years, is to be accounted for, I think, upon a similar 
theory. It is consistent to suppose that among the 
many various parasites that infest the bee-hive, there are 
those which prey upon the destroyer of the larvae, and 
thus destroy them in turn. Corroborative evidence of 
this, is found in our experience with cabbage and currant 
worms, potato bugs and other pests, which, after a few 
seasons of unchecked devastation, are overtaken by their 
parasitic enemies, and their ravages materially lessened. 

Those who have not given attention to the subject of 
parasites, can hardly be aware of the number and variety of 



220 DISEASES AKD ENEMIES OF BEES. 

these minute pests. I have made them a subject of par- 
ticular study and observation, with increasing interest. 
In the course of my investigations at various periods dur- 
ing the past three years, I have examined hives in some 
of the leading apiaries of this State, and in every in- 
stance have found several varieties of parasites present, 
in greater or less numbers. I have thus far discovered nine 
distinct forms, but whether they are distinct species, I 
am unable from lack of entomological knowledge to de- 
termine. 

The conditions under which I have generally found 
them to be most troublesome, and annoying to the bees, 
indicate to my mind, that much of the difficulty encoun- 
tered in wintering bees, may be due to their presence. 

It has long been claimed by our best writers on the sub- 
ject of wintering, that one of the prime requisites for 
success was perfect quiet. It has also been noticed by 
many that while some swarms remained very quiet, others 
could be heard buzzing, and would be constantly uneasy. 
The fact that some were quiet, shows that the uneasi- 
ness was not due to any external disturbance. It has 
often been a subject of much perplexity to me why these 
different conditions should exist. 

Some writers have advised setting such restless swarms 
upon their summer stands for a purifying flight, and this 
may be desirable, inasmuch as they have necessarily been 
stimulated to a large consumption of food by this undue 
excitement ; but the original cause of this disturbance 
has not yet been understood. 

I have found such swarms clearing the dust from the 
bottom boards, and upon examining it as they had 
thrown it from the entrance, I discovered these par- 
asites in large numbers which had been ejected from the 
hive. I find the Italians much more liable to be dis- 
turbed by them than the natives. Their tendency to de- 
fend themselves is here manifest, and they are more 



DISEASES AtfD EKEMIES OP BEES. 221 

easily aroused to action. This may account for the cases 
that are cited where the natives winter better than the 
Italians. Another proof that the worrying of swarms 
while in winter quarters is occasioned by these pests, is 
the fact that the bees gradually leave the hive and fall 
upon the cellar bottom ; and when set upon their summer 
stands, these weak swarms will be found throwing these 
parasites from the hive in large numbers. It has been 
demonstrated by the experience of many, in wintering, 
that when the ventilating slide in the bottom board is 
left open, the bees in most cases cluster lower and directly 
over the opening, and are found to keep more quiet. 
This method has been recommended because of the evi- 
dently better results. I had supposed that the advantage 
lay in the fact that they were more certain of their free- 
dom from the opening being so near, and I yet believe 
this to be a condition which favors this result. It occurs 
to me, however, since my acquaintance with these para- 
sites that they were also more easily removed from the 
hive when it was thus arranged. I have examined the 
dust which dropped from the cluster through this open- 
ing, when in winter quarters, and lodged upon the top of 
the hive beneath, and in nearly every case found these in- 
sects. It has been found to conduce to successful wintering 
to place a rim under each hive, raising it a short distance 
from the bottom board. In this case, the insects in the 
dust would be farther from the cluster of bees, and less 
likely to annoy them. It has often been noticed that 
during the spring and summer months, young bees are 
thrown from the cells that have been, through some 
cause, destroyed before maturing. Cases have been re- 
ported where young bees have been so removed in large 
numbers. It seems very reasonable to infer that these 
may have been destroyed bv parasites, as I have found 
them in the bodies of such bees. 

They are found in all parts of the hives where the beea 



222 



DISEASES AtfD ENEMIES OF BEES. 



can not reach them. Where the mat hugs closely to the 
frame, they will often be found between it and the frame. 
Some of them frequent the hive apparently foff honey 





Fig. 85. 

HONEY BUG.' 



Fig. 86. 
TRICHODES APIARIUS. 



alone ; others seem to be found only in the dust under 
the cluster, while yet others appear to feed upon the 
bees, especially the young and immature bees that are 
thrown from the combs. The insect found most fre- 
quently in the dust is a small chestnut-brown beetle, 
about one-twelfth of an inch in length, and clothed, as 
seen under the microscope, with the most minute hairs. 
This beetle is given at fig. 85, of course greatly enlarged. 
As this is supposed to feed upon 
honey, it is known to bee-keepers 
as the "Honey-bug." A beetle, 
which in Europe destroys the 
larvae of the bee, is Trichodes 
apiarius ; I have occasionally de- 
tected what appears to be this in- 
sect, as it agrees well with Pack- 
ard's figure, which is here given in 
fig. 86. Some evidently harbor in 
Fig. 87,-seed glass. t h e m j nu t e pores of the wood, as 
often, when I have brought a bottom-board into a warm 
room for examination, scores would shortly appear where 




DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 



223 



scarcely one could at first be discerned. The good results 
claimed to follow a thorough painting of the hive, within 
as well as without, may arise from the closing of its pores 
by the paint, and the 
consequent exclusion 
of these insects. Un- 
der certain circum- 
stances, however, this 
gain may be counter- 
balanced by disadvan- 
tages otherwise men- 
tioned. A common 
seed-glass, such as are 
sold by opticians (fig. 
87), for detecting adul- 
terations or impurities 
in seeds will answer. 
Better still, as afford- 
ing a higher power, 
and being more con- 




Fig. 88. — SIMPLE MICROSCOPE. 



venient in use, for observing these parasites, is the 
American Agriculturist Simple Microscope (fig. 88), of- 
fered by the Orange Judd Company. 

The progressive bee-keeper will here find interesting 
ground for investigation, which has a more direct bearing 
upon vital points in his pursuit than may at first be sup- 
posed. I anticipate that the discoveries of the near fu- 
ture in this direction will not only be surprising, but en- 
lighten us materially in regard to many mysteries for 
which we are as yet unable to furnish a solution. 

BEE-MOTH. 

If we combine into one phalanx all other enemies of the 
bee, and compare their ability for mischief, with that of 
the bee-moth, we shall find their powers of destruction 



224 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 

but feeble in comparison. From the moth herself we 
would have nothing to fear, were it not for her progeny, 
a hundred, or a thousand, vile worms, the food of which 
is principally wax. 

As the instinct of the flesh-fly directs her to a putrid car- 
cass to deposit her eggs, that her offspring may have their 
proper food, so the bee-moth seeks the hive containing 
combs, where the natural food of her progeny is at hand. 
During the day, a rusty brown miller, witk its wings close 




Fig. 89.— BEE MOTH. 

to the body, may be often seen lying perfectly motionless 
on the corner of a hive, or on the under edge of the top, 
where it projects over. They are more frequent at the cor- 
ners than anywhere else, one-third of their length project- 
ing beyond it, appearing much like a sliver on the edge of a 
board that is somewhat weather-beaten, (fig. 89). Their 
color so closely resembles that of old wood, that no doubt 
their enemies are often deceived, and they thus escape 
with their lives. As soon as darkness shuts out the view, 
and there is no danger of their movements being discov- 
ered, they throw off their inactivity, and commence 
searching for a place to deposit their eggs, and woe to the 
stock that has not bees sufficient to drive them from the 
eomb. Although their larvae generally has a skin that 



DISEASES AKD ENEMIES OF BEES. 225 

the bee cannot pierce with its sting, it is not so with the 
moth, and of this fact they seem to be aware, for when- 
ever a bee approaches they dart away with a speed 
much greater than that of any bee disposed to follow. 
They enter the hive, and dodge out in a moment, either 
from fear of the bees, or from having actually encountered 
them. Now it needs no argument to show that, when 
our stocks are well protected, there must be a poor chance 
for the moth to deposit her eggs upon the combs, which 
instinct teaches her is the proper place. But she must 
leave them somewhere. 

WHERE THEIR EGGS ARE DEPOSITED. 

When driven from all the combs within, the next best 
places are the cracks and flaws about the hive, that are 




WORM GALLERY IN COMB. 



lined with propolis, and the dust and chips that fall on 
the floor-board of a young swarm not full. This last ma- 
terial is partly wax, and answers very well instead of comb. 
The eggs will hatch here, and the worms sometimes as- 
cend to the comb ; but if the dust that collects upon 
the bottom is kept brushed off clean, it will prevent those 
hatched there from going up, and also hinder the bees from 




226 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 

taking up any eggs on their feet, if this should happen to 
be the method by which they get among the combs of a 
populous stock. They are often detected there, and I 
can conceive of no other means by which they can be de- 
posited. A worm lodged in the comb makes his way 
either to the center, or between the heads of the young 

bees in the cells and 
the sealing, and as he 
proceeds, eats a pas- 
sage, lining it with a 
shroud of silk, and 

Fig. 91.-WORM GALLERY REMOVED. gradua]ly enlarging 

it, as he increases in size, as shown in fig. 90. When 
combs are filled with honey, they work on the surface, 
eating only the sealing. In very weak families, this silken 
passage (fig. 91) is left untouched, but is usually re- 
moved by all strong colonies. 

When a worm is in the center of a comb filled with 
brood, its passage is not at first discovered. The bees, to 
get it out, must bite away half the thickness of the comb, 
removing the brood in one or two rows of cells, sometimes 
for several inches. This will account for the number of 
immature bees often found in the spring on the floor- 
board at morning ; as well as in stocks but partially pro- 
tected after the swarming season. 

DEVELOPMENT OF THE LAKV^l. 

When undisturbed, the larvse will grow one-half or two- 
thirds larger than when their right to the comb is dis- 
puted. In one case they often 
make their growth, and actu- 
ally wind up in their cocoon, 
when less than an inch in 

• 1 1 XI XI. -11 Fi g- 92.— MOTH LARVAE. 

length ; in the other, they will 

quietly fatten until they are an inch and a half long, and 

as large as a pipe-stem (fig. 92.) When first hatched 





DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 227 

from the egg it is difficult to discern them with the naked 
eye. Their rapidity of growth depends as much on the 
temperature in which they are placed, as upon their good 
living. A few days of hot weather may develop the full- 
grown worm, which would require weeks and even 
months in a lower temperature. 

The larva, after spinning its cocoon (fig. 93), soon 
changes into a chrysalis, and remains inactive for 
several days, when 
it makes an open- 
ing in one end, and 
crawls out. The 
time necessary for 
this transforma- 
tion is also gov- 
erned by the tern- 1SMMto ^, 9 3.-cocoons. 
perature, although 
I think but few ever pass the winter in this state. A moth 
will rarely be found before the end of May, and not 
many are seen until the middle of June ; but after this 
time they are more numerous until the end of the season. 

DESTROYED BY SEVERE COLD. 

Mr. Quinby's experience, as well as my own, leads me 
to differ with some modern writers on this point, and I 
am compelled to maintain, that if combs containing eggs 
or larvae are exposed to the severe cold of our northern 
winters, not a single worm will be produced before the 
middle of June, or until some moth, matured in another 
hive, has had access to the combs, and an opportunity to 
deposit her eggs therein. 

REMEDIES. 



It has already been observed that the Italians are much 
less liable to be disturbed, or injured by the bee-moth, 



228 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 

than the natives. Theiy disposition to defend themselves 
so vigorously, is an invaluable ally to the careful bee-keeper. 
With the frequent handling of movable combs, in the 
various operations incident to the season, a worm in any 
part of the hive can readily be detected and disposed of, 
and there is little excuse for allowing them to become 
numerous. A knife or other sharp-pointed instrument 
should be at hand to administer speedy justice, as every 
one not destroyed, soon becomes a host. Combs taken 
from hives in which bees have been wintered, and later 
in the season, such spare combs as the moth may have had 
access to, should be examined, and if signs of its work 
are seen, the combs should be placed in a box, and sub- 
jected to the fumes of brimstone. Such combs are valua- 
ble, and should be preserved. If, from any mishap or 
carelessness, a stock becomes so over-run with worms as 
to be in danger of destruction, the bees should be remov- 
ed, and the hive and contents thoroughly fumigated with 
brimstone. If any brood should be worth saving, let 
it be cut out, and cared for. The combs unfit for 
any purpose, should be buried or burned. 

MOTH-PEOOF HIVES. 

"No hive has ever yet been invented which will exclude 
the moth. It is distressing to contemplate the amount of 
humbuggery that credulous bee-keepers have endured for 
scores of years, in the shape of so-called moth-proof 
hives. Let it be distinctly understood by all beginners 
that the moth is not the cause of the decline of a once 
healthy stock. It simply takes advantage of the weak- 
ness induced by other causes. Therefore, the obvious 
remedy or preventive is, to "keep all colonies strong," 
and destroy every moth, larva, or chrysalis at sight. 




DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 229 

THE BEE-KILLER. 

In the Western and Southern States bees suffer greatly 
from a two-winged, very voracious insect known as the 
"Bee-killer/*' It is the 
Asilus Missouriensis of Ri- 
ley, and is given in fig. 94, 
of the natural size, from 
Riley's "First Report on 
the Insects of Missouri." 
Its general color is yellow- 
ish brown or yellowish grey, 
and but little is known of 
its history and habits. It 
pounces upon the bee while Fig ^J^, KILLER 

on the wing, and takes its 

victim to some plant, or even to the ground where, with 
its stout proboscis, it sucks out the inside of the bee and 
leaves but an empty shell. Though occasionally found 
in the Eastern States, this insect has fortunately not be- 
come common. But little is known as to the best methods 
of destroying it ; bee-keepers should be on the watch for 
this enemy, and destroy it wherever it is found. 

BATS AND MICE. 

Rats and mice are never troublesome, except in cold 
weather. The entrances of all hives standing out, are 
much too small to admit a rat. No damage need be ap- 
prehended from them except when the hives are in the 
house. They appear to be fond of honey, and when it is 
accessible, will eat several pounds in a short time. 

Mice will often enter the hive on the out-door stand, 
when not excluded, and make extensive depredations. 
Sometimes, after cutting a space in the combs, they will 
make their nests there. The animal heat created by the 



230 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 

bees, will make a snug, warm place for winter quarters. 
The "deer mouse" seems to be particularly fond of the 
bees, while those belonging to the house, seem to relish 
the honey. 

The entrance to the hives should be contracted so that 
a mouse cannot enter. The apartment in which the bees 
are wintered, should be cleared of rats and mice, and 
every means taken to keep them out, as their running 
over the hives, even if prevented from entering them, 
annoys and disturbs the bees. 

BIKDS. 

Most birds are included in the list of enemies of bees, 
but I have a word to say in favor of some of them. The 
King-bird is generally placed at the head of the list of 
feathered depredators. After close observation of the 
habits of this bird, I am convinced that he destroys not 
only drones, but workers and queens as well. The King- 
birds are most active about the apiary at those times of 
the day when the drones are flying most freely. This indi- 
cates to me the greatest injury they may inflict upon our 
interests. The queens are then usually upon the wing to 
meet the drones, and are consequently in danger of being 
caught by the birds. My friend, Mr. E. D. Clark, is 
quite positive that he lost several queens in one season, 
in this manner. If I were rearing queens largely, and 
these birds were numerous at this period, I should feel 
justified in reducing their numbers, but under ordinary 
circumstances, I should be slow to recommend their de- 
struction. 

Since writing the above, Captain Hetherington has re- 
lated to me the conclusions of another gentleman, who is 
a close observer. The general result of an examination 
of their crops is, that the remains of the bees are in such a 
mutilated condition m to be beyond identification. This: 



DISEASES AHD ENEMIES OF BEES. 231 

gentleman noticed a King-bird catching several bees near 
the same spot, and upon close scrutiny saw small par- 
ticles drop to the ground as the bird captured the bee. 
Upon a careful search, he found both extremities of the 
bees upon the ground, and came to the conclusion that 
the bird caught the bee in such a manner as to secure the 
honey-sac, and drop the remainder. While my own ex- 
perience has not verified this, it does not disprove 
it. Wrens are of great value in an apiary in picking up 
every worm that may chance to be exposed. Every in- 
ducement should be presented to attract them to the vi- 
cinity of the hives. Suitable houses in which they may 
build their nests should be put up in appropriate places. 
Cat-birds are also worthy of passing notice. They may 
be seen at nearly all hours of the day, passing from hive 
to hive, picking up worms and immature bees as they are 
thrown out. 

ANTS, TOADS, AND SPIDEKS. 

Ants are undoubtedly an annoyance to the bees as well 
as to their keeper. Their fondness for sweets is such 
that the bees must guard their stores well, to protect 
them from these tiny marauders. They may usually be 
driven from the hives where they congregate, by brushing 
and smoking. Alcohol, applied to the parts they fre- 
quent, will speedily destroy them. That toads feed upon 
bees may easily be ascertained by any watchful bee- 
keeper ; yet, as they are seldom, if ever, found catching 
them at hours when the life of a queen would be en- 
dangered, they are less obnoxious than King-birds. The 
only harm that can ever be done by spiders is that the 
bees will sometimes become entangled in their webs when 
spun about the hive. With little care both the spiders 
and their webs may be destroyed. 



232 MARKETING HONEY. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

MARKETING HONEY. 
A SUBJECT OF IMPORTANCE. 

We have now reached a subject of considerable import- 
ance, but which has not excited any unusual interest 
until very recently. This is the more remarkable from 
the fact that the appearance and condition of honey, when 
put in market, has a direct effect upon the price received. 
It is to be observed that not only do different markets 
vary in the form of package required, but the demand 
changes from year to year. Where ten years ago large 
boxes, in as large cases as could conveniently be handled, 
were universally sold, there has been a steady change to 
smaller boxes and lighter cases. These facts make it in- 
dispensable for an enterprising bee-keeper to study his 
market carefully, and prepare his honey accordingly. In 
connection with the demands of a more distant and gen- 
eral market, we should not ignore the advantage of a 
large and well supplied home trade. In addition to this, 
experience proves that where the crop is not large enough 
to justify shipping to a distance, it pays well to put a 
wagon on the road, and deliver to consumers at their 
doors, thus saving commissions and the risks of trans- 
portation. 

NEATNESS. 

It is beyond question that, aside from the best size of 
boxes and packages, the utmost neatness and precision in 
manufacture and preparation must be observed, to give 
any certain brand of honey a permanent reputation among 
the large dealers. To producers, who have invested time 
and capital in this business to much extent, these consid- 
erations are important. A standard of quality, so well 



MARKETING HONEY. 233 

established, that the name of the producer alone, is a 
guarantee of excellence, is an achievement worthy of ear- 
nest effort. 

OBJECTION TO LARGE CASES. 

The disadvantages of too large cases for shipping box- 
honey are frequently evident. I have often seen combs 
broken from the boxes because the package was too heavy 
to admit of its being handled with sufficient care. Cus- 
tomers will often refuse to purchase large cases, even 
when the honey suits them better than that in cases one- 
fourth the size, and, instead of a large case, will take 
four of the smaller ones to get the desired amount. 

TWO-STORY CASES. 

Mr. Heddon recommends cases in which two tiers of 
boxes are to be placed. There are objections to this form 
of case. If, from any cause, a comb in the upper tier is 
broken, and leaks ever so little, the boxes below will in- 
evitably become soiled. This is a sufficient argument in 
favor of but one tier of boxes in a case. 

SMALL CASES POPULAR. 

The size of case which is coming into general use with 
the best apiarians, is one that contains twelve single-comb 
boxes, or six two-comb boxes. They will hold about 
twenty pounds, the weight varying with the size of the 
box. This case, now known as the " Prize Crate," has 
been the favorite package in this section for several years. 
In 1877, I packed a portion of my honey in still smaller 
cases, each containing but six boxes weighing about ten 
pounds. I had hardly packed the first one, before a party 
seeing it said it was just the package he wanted for fam- 
ily use. Similar expressions of approval, both before and 
after they were placed in market, satisfied me that such a 



234 



MAKKETIHG HONEY. 



size would meet the wants of a large class of customers, 
both dealers and consumers. Still later experience con- 
vinces me that even a smaller case yet, will become popu- 
lar. I have put up cases 
of three boxes only, 
weighing but five 
pounds, for the New 
York market, which 
were much liked, and 
sold well. Figure 95 
shows three sizes of 
cases, holding five, ten, 
and twenty pounds re- 
spectively. The objec- 
tions that arise are, the 
trouble of handling such 
small packages, and ex- 
tra cost of manufacture. 




Fig. 95. — THREE SIZES OF HONEY BOXES. 



The latter is amply met by the increased popularity of the 
case. To obviate the extra trouble of handling, I made 
the small cases very 
light, and re-cased them 
in larger ones, each hold- 
ing eight, making an 
average net weight of 
forty pounds. The add- 
ed labor and expense is 
partially met by the de- 
cided advantage of plac- 
ing our honey in a dis- 
tant market, in a neat 
and attractive condition, 
the outer case prevent- 
ing the inner ones from 

becoming soiled. Those who have most experience 
shipping honey will see in this an advantage worthy of 




EIGHT FIVE-POUND CANS RE-CASKS*. 



m 



MARKETING HONEY. 235 

some extra trouble. Figure 96 represents a case of 
this kind. 

PREPARING BOXES FOR MARKET. 

All boxes should be thoroughly cleaned of any propolis 
and wax that may adhere to them. The section-boxes 
must now have the glass added. The disadvantages of 
putting section frames, or unglazed boxes, in market have 
been enlarged upon in another chapter. There may be 
markets that demand such, but in all with which I am 
familiar, it is desirable to have glass on both sides. I do 
not urge the glazing of each section-box from pecuniary 
motives, but from the evident fact that it is more prac- 
tical aud agreeable to customers. The popularity of the 
single-comb box should be proof of the need of ample 
protection with glass. It would" not be very objection- 
able, with five or ten pound cases, to put glass upon but 
one side of each outside box. The case is sold as a fam- 
ily package, and the first box used may be taken from 
the center, and the outside one moved up, thus keeping 
it tolerably close. I should prefer, however, if boxes in 
these smaller cases were not to be wholly glazed, to not 
put any in, but glaze the sides of the case instead, thus 
keeping the combs entirely free from dust and intruders. 
The same suggestions would be applicable to section 
frames. If box-honey has been properly cared for when 
removed from the hive, it may now be prepared for 
market without danger of injury from moth-worms after 
being cased. One of our Bee Journals recently advised 
putting honey upon the market as soon as it was taken 
from the hives. This would be dangerous counsel to 
follow, as it would be certain damage to future sales un- 
less disposed of an*d consumed at once. Two-comb boxes 
should have all entrances closed. For this purpose, use 
a heavy quality of paper, cut the proper size, and pasted 
over the openings with common flour paste. 



236 MARKETING HONEY. 

GRADING HONEY. 

In casing honey, it should be graded closely, and each 
quality packed separately. Where white honey only is 
secured, it is possible that there may be but one quality ; 
yet it is usually best to make two grades, even if it is sim- 
ply marked, 1st and 2d. Where both white and dark 
honey are gathered, it is usually necessary to make three 
grades. I mark best quality, "C," buckwheat, " B," 
and boxes containing a portion of each, "M," or mixed. 

PACKING HONEY. 

Each case should be weighed before being filled, and 
its weight marked upon it. The honey should also be 
weighed before putting it in the case. Select the desired 
number of boxes, and if they do not weigh even pounds, 
change a box or two for a lighter or heavier one, until 
the right weight is obtained ; then fill the case and mark 
the net weight upon the end. Let the combs stand 
lengthwise of the case. In handling section boxes, from 
the time they are first made, until ready for market, it is 
well never to set them down upon the sides that are to 
show when cased. When packing comb-honey to ship to 
a distance, it should be placed in the cases, with the side 
downwards to which the honey is most firmly secured. 

MARKING CASES. 

In shipping honey to large buyers, or to commission 
merchants, they will usually furnish a stencil plate for 
marking the address. This should be upon one end of 
the case, and the shipper's initials upon the other. The 
letters indicating the quality, weight, etc., should be 
placed as shown in fig. 95. The neatness and business 
like accuracy with which these details are carried out, 
will add much to the reputation of any producer, as well 
as enhance his profits. It is wise, never to put your 



MARKETING HONEY. 237 

whole name and address upon your cases, unless you sell 
directly to the retail dealers, as it will usually be erased 
by the wholesale merchants, giving the case an untidy and 
damaged appearance. 

RELIABLE DEALERS. 

The necessity of patronizing a strictly reliable house 
cannot be too strongly impressed. It is never judicious 
to allow a popular brand of honey to go into the hands 
of dealers who are known to handle adulterated honey in 
any form, or are in any way untrustworthy. I have re- 
frained from selling my honey to such parties, even when 
offered a larger cash price for it, than I could realize by 
placing it in the hands of a reliable commission merchant. 
Thoroughly honest and trustworthy men can be found in 
every city and town, and should be sought out and 
patronized. 

MATERIAL FOR CASES. 

For the ends of the case and the slats at the side I find 
nothing better than bass wood. The very best white bass- 
wood should be procured for the purpose. The top and 
bottom may be of pine, or basswood may be used for the 
whole case. 

MANUFACTURING CASES. 

All work should be done in the neatest and most 
workmanlike manner. The thickness of the ends should, 
of course, vary according to the size of the cases ; 
from y, inch for 5 lb. cases, to 7 / g inch for a 20 lb. case. 
In shipping and storing in commission houses, where 
room is limited, it is often necessary to pile the cases 
several tiers high. It will be seen that they must be 
strong that those at the bottom may sustain the weight 
of all above them. While in New York in the fall of 
1878, I saw a fine lot of honey leaking badly, caused by 



2'.lS MARKETING HONEY. 

the lower tier of cases being racked during transporta- 
tion. Therefore, let all cases be not only neatly, but sub- 
stantially made. At the proper place in each end, as 
shown in figs. 95 and 96, a handle should be made by the 
use of a wabble saw. A top and bottom, and four strips 
r/ 4 inch wide and 1 / i or J / 2 inch thickness, according to 
the size of the case, constitute the remaining material. 
This makes a neat, convenient, and attractive case. 

TRANSPORTATION. 

"When circumstances will permit, I prefer shipping 
honey by boat, yet I have transported it largely and safely 
in an ordinary railroad freight car. This manner of ship- 
ping is very commonly practised, large quantities coming 
in this way from California to New York in good con- 
dition. Care must be exercised to pack it properly in the 
car. Select as clean a car as possible, and place upon the 
bottom about two inches of dry sawdust, or straw. Place 
some straw, or bags of sawdust, against the ends of the 
car, and crowd the first tier of cases firmly against it, 
with the ends of the cases to the end of the car, as in this 
position the combs are less liable to be broken by sudden 
stops and starts. Avoid putting too many in a pile, so as 
not to strain the lower cases. Pack the tiers firmly to- 
gether, and leave no chance for displacement. If the car 
is not full, and packing is not put in at both ends, pieces 
of board should be nailed across the car, about 6 inches 
from the last tier of cases, and .the space between the 
boards and the cases packed with straw or bags of saw- 
dust, the same as at the end. Small quantities may b'e 
shipped safely by express. 

PREPARING EXTRACTED HONEY FOR MARKET. 

I am confident that the market for extracted honey 
will gradually improve as customers become convinced 



MARKETING HONEY. 239 

that granulation is a sure test of purity ; and honey in 
this candied form will soon take the lead, if the nefarious 
business of adulteration with glucose continues. It 
should be remembered that honey containing glucose will 
not become candied, and that, as a rule, all pure liquid 
honey will granulate in cold climates. If pure honey is 
placed in a good fruit jar, and heated to 160° and sealed 
in the same manner as fruit is canned, it will remain 
liquid. Customers preferring it in a liquid state, should 
purchase the granulated honey, and liquefy it for them- 
selves. Producers wishing to ship it in this form, should 
patronize some thoroughly honest dealer, or seal their 
packages, so that they cannot be tampered with. 

PROCESS OF LIQUEFACTION. 

The process of liquefying candied honey is very simple* 
yet caution must be observed not to scorch it. The ves- 
sel containing the honey should be placed in a suitable 
boiler, or vat, filled with water, which should be gradu- 
ally raised to a temperature of 160°. If the quantity of 
honey is large, it should be stirred as it melts. The ves- 
sel should be raised by blocks of wood, so that the water 
can pass freely under it. In my early experience in this 
process, I found it possible to scorch it badly, even when 
heated in water ; and great care must be exercised that 
it does not heat up too rapidly. 

KIND OF PACKAGE. 

The package in which extracted honey will sell best 
must be decided by the demand. In our home market, it 
is sold largely in jelly cups and glass fruit cans ; also in 
20 to 40 lb. pails, it being cut from the pail, and sold the 
same as butter. In cold weather I have known parties to 
buy a small pail or tub of honey, which was candied' hard, 
remove the hoops and staves, and cut off the solid honey 



240 



MAKKETI^G HOKEY. 




Fig. 97.- 



-TWELVE CANS EXTRACTED 
HONEY IN CASES. 



in portions as desired. This is more practicable than 
would at first seem. In putting honey in jelly cups or 
fruit cans, always furnish a standard article. We once 
purchased a large quantity of second-class cans for this 
purpose, because they were cheaper, and when brought 
into competition with a popular style, the difference was 

plainly perceptible. When 
cans are used, let each dis- 
play an attractive label, in- 
dicating the quality of the 
honey, and your address. 
Twelve quart cans in a case, 
similar to those used for 
box honey, make a conve- 
nient package for handling, 
(fig. 97). At present there 
is good sale for honey in casks, or firkins, holding from 
150 to 200 lbs. Such casks should be well made and 
bound with wooden hoops, which should be nailed in 
place, and the casks well coated inside with beeswax, be- 
fore filling. To coat the casks, allow them to stand in 
the sun, until they are quite warm. Apply the melted 
wax while hot ; pour a quart of it into a cask, and cork 
tightly ; roll and turn it rapidly until every spot is cov- 
ered, when the surplus wax may be poured out. The 
warmer the cask, the hotter the wax, and the more ex- 
peditious the work, the less wax will be required. Avoid 
filling the casks too full with cold honey, for, if allowed 
to stand in a warm place, the honey will expand, and 
cause the cask to leak. Very much attention is being 
given of late to putting up extracted honey in small 
packages. Even as small as one-quarter pound are be- 
coming popular. 

C. F. Muth furnishes glass bottles (see fig. 98), hold- 
from one-quarter pound to two pounds, which are very 



MAKKETING HONEY. 



241 



desirable, because of their neatness, and also because 
they will not corrode. 

Dadant & Son, Jones and other bee-keepers, use small 
tin pails, which, when neatly labelled, present an at- 




Fig. 98. — muth's honey bottles. 

tractive appearance, and there is no danger of breakage 
as with glass. We have used these largely with great 
satisfaction in our home trade. I would encourage in all 
possible ways the developing of a home market. 



2*2 WINTERING. 

OHAPTEK XVII. 

WINTERING. 

How to winter bees successfully, has been to bee-keep- 
ers their most vexatious problem, and it maybe safely 
asserted that failure in bee-keeping is chiefly attributable 
to defective wintering. We cannot expect profitable re- 
turns during the summer unless we commence the season 
with thrifty colonies, and to insure this condition, they 
must' be properly wintered. While there is yet much to 
be done before we have a perfect method of wintering, I 
hope that a varied and extensive experience may enable 
me to assist somewhat in reaching this end. 

PREPARING BEES FOR WINTER. 

The properly fitting of the colonies for winter, should be 
borne in mind during the entire working season. In esti- 
mating the quantity of honey required for wintering, it 
must be remembered, that a swarm should be confined to 
a limited number of combs. Many colonies are lost 
through lack of attention to this point. A marked ad- 
vantage is found here in the use of the closed-end stand- 
ing-frame ; this, of itself, regulates the size of the 
brood-nest, which varies in proportion to the number of 
frames used. 

The necessary supply of honey should be contained in 
five, or, at most, six combs of the Quinby size. Five 
combs, averaging five pounds each, or six, with four 
pounds each, will generally prove sufficient. For winter- 
ing out-of-doors, an excess of five pounds should be al- 
lowed, and as much less will answer for hives wintered 
under cover. The outside combs will naturally contain 
more than those at the center, leaving the latter with 



WINTERING. ' 243 

more empty cells in the proper place for occupancy by the 
bees. If they are to be left out-of-doors, care must bo 
taken not to have these center combs too full of honey, 
as the bees must cluster more compactly than when they 
have warmer surroundings. Mr. Betsinger advocates 
wintering in combs full of sealed honey. This is an ex- 
treme which I cannot endorse, but the opposite extreme 
of too much empty comb, should also be avoided. In 
determining the amount of winter food, it is necessary to 
know the average weight of the hive and contents, inde- 
pendent of the honey; all stocks should be weighed, and 
those too heavy, should exchange combs with such as are 
lacking. If, from any cause, there is a deficiency, it 
must be supplied as directed in the Chapter on Feeding. 

The habit of the bees, of filling out with honcv, cells 
containing pollen, is sometimes the cause of an incorrect 
estimate of the amount of honey in a hive, especially if 
it has been queenless, and the pollen unconsumed by 
young bees. I have furnished such combs to colonies for 
winter, judging from the weight that the supply would 
be ample and found, too late, that the excess of pollen 
had deceived me, as the bees perished before spring for 
want of honey. At the same time that we are con- 
sidering these conditions, we must aim to secure large 
quantities of young bees for winter. The importance of 
this consideration, cannot be over-estimated. 

In the winter of 1869-70, probably more bees were lost 
than in any other season in the history of bee-keeping. 
Those who suffered as largely as we did at that time, will 
remember that the preceding season of 1869 was so poor, 
that, during the latter part of it, very little, if any brood 
was reared. The result was, that nearly all of the bees 
that went into winter-quarters were old. During the 
spring of 1870, these old bees wasted very rapidly, as 
mi^ht have been expected, and very few swarms recovered 
sufficiently to store surplus honey to any extent, although 



244 



WINTEKING. 



the season was one of the very best, as is usually the case 
after the other extreme. 

In the State of Vermont 1869 was a very favorable 
season. In 1870, we purchased thirty colonies there, and 
moved them to our own apiary at St. Johnsville, K. Y. 
Ten of these we used for the trade, and devoted the re- 
mainder to surplus, of which they gave us more than the 
170 swarms which we had wintered. I mention this 
merely to illustrate the contrast in results from bees that 
winter well, and those that are weak and feeble in spring. 

In all manipulations at this season, great care should be 
observed not to injure the queen, as it is essential to suc- 
cess that each colony begin the winter with a perfect, pro- 
lific queen. Holes should be made with a knife through 
each comb for the bees to pass through, from one to 
another, without being obliged to go around the outside. 
This is especially necessary if they are to be wintered 
out-of-doors. Thimbles of tin, about 1 / i inch in diame- 
ter, placed in the comb, are Useful for this purpose. 

Where the Quinby hive with the large case is used, the 
frames may be prepared for wintering in-doors, by plao- 
ing them upon a 
small bottom- 
board, with a quilt 
or mat covering the 
entire top, and the 
panels at the sides, 
as in fig. 99. These 
may be arranged 
early in the fall, and 
left standing in the 
outside case, until 
it is time to put 
them in. The out- 
side case is left on 
may be made of 




Fig. 99. — -FRAMES PREPARED FOR WINTER 

the summer stand, 
unbleached muslin, and 



The quilts 
should con- 



WINTERING. 245 

tain about one half a roll of cotton batting. They 
should be tied at intervals of three or four inches, and 
sewed together at the edges. These quilts are also availa- 
ble for all frame hives. All hives and stands should be 
numbered, so that when set out in spring, each colony 
Will occupy its own location. While this is not absolutely 
essential, when they are not to be taken out until spring, 
it is in many respects desirable. 

PERFECT QUIET ESSENTIAL. 

The great necessity for leaving bees undisturbed, as far 
as possible, during the entire time that they cannot gather 
honey or pollen, is not fully appreciated. As good results 
as have ever been reported, have been attained where bees 
were wintered by burying ; yet, it is quite evident that, 
aside from the one item of perfect quiet, much better 
conditions may be secured than when surrounded with 
damp soil. If it were not that an occasional examination 
is needful, to see that rats or mice have not affected an 
entrance, or, to ascertain if the room is not unduly damp, 
I would advise locking the door of the wintering apart- 
ment, and not opening it again until spring. But I ad- 
vise making these examinations and any needed changes 
as quietly and seldom as possible. All ventilators 
should be so arranged as to be regulated from the outside, 
and means for ascertaining the temperature, without en- 
tering the room for the purpose, should be provided, as 
hereafter described. 

OUT-OF-DOOR WINTERING. 

Many practical bee-keepers still advocate out-of-door 
wintering, and in many instances, there is no question 
but bees may be wintered upon their summer stands with 
success. Unless they may be placed in a suitable apart- 
ment, where the necessary conditions can be maintained, 



246 WINTERING. 

I am satisfied that it would be better to prepare the hives 
as will be described, and leave them upon their summer 
stands. Yet, my experience in wintering under nearly 
all circumstances, will, I think, warrant the assumption 
that, all things considered, in-door wintering is preferable, 
particularly in our cold climate. 

If bees are to be left upon their summer stands, the 
first thing necessary is, to provide the hives with ample 
protection from cutting winds. If this is not afforded 
naturally, a tight board fence should be built for the pur- 
pose. Many practice packing straw about the hives in 
such a manner that the sun cannot, at any time, shine 
upon any part of them, unless temporarily upon the 
front, which is the very thing that should be avoided, 
as this induces the bees to fly. Properly arranged pack- 
ing at the tops and sides of frames, is often very advan- 
tageous, yet, as it is generally used, I think it is the cause 
of the loss of more bees than it benefits. I speak from 
experimental knowledge, having packed hundreds of 
colonies in the Quinby hives. It will be seen by noticing 
the construction of this hive, that the case is large and 
that, when all boxes are removed, the space for packing is, 
abundant. I have filled this space with saw-dust, chaff, 
cut and whole straw, and dearly bought experience 
forces me to say, that with improper management, very 
bad results come from the use of such packing. The ar- 
gument offered in its favor, is, that the packing will ab- 
sorb the moisture, and retain the warmth of the bees. 
This is true, and it is equally true that, unless the sun is 
allowed to reach this packing and evaporate the moisture, 
it is the direct cause of harm. 

If bees are to receive no attention, I would prefer to 
risk a common box-hive with holes in the top, loosely 
filled with rags or some porous substance, than those 
packed with chaff or straw. Cold is not so frequent a 
cause of loss in winter as many suppose, provided the 



WINTERING. 24? 

bees have plenty of proper food, and are kept suitably 
dry.* Bat, if proper care is taken to occasionally re- 
move the roof, and often the cap or cover of the hive, 
and allow the inside to receive the direct rays of the sun 
to dry off all moisture, success in wintering will be much 
more certain. If the case or cap be adjusted loosely, it 
will afford the moisture better opportunity to escape. 
Care must, of course, be exercised in taking these pre- 
cautions not to jar, or in any way arouse the bees to 
activity ; nor should the hive be disturbed at any time 
when the temperature would induce the bees to fly. At 
such times, I would prevent their flying, by shading the 
hive from the sun. 

IN-DOOR WINTERING. 

; Dry, pure air, and a proper and even temperature, are 
two prime essentials in successful wintering. These cer- 
tainly can not be so perfectly controlled out-of-doors as 
in a suitable in-door repository. 

ARTIFICIAL HEAT. 

The necessity of being able to supply artificial heat to 
aid in securing proper ventilation, temperature, and free 
dom from moisture is very generally conceded. I have 
had excellent opportunities, while purchasing bees in va- 
rious sections, for noticing the circumstances under 
which they had been wintered, as well as the effect upon 
their condition in spring, and found that in proportion 
as they were aided by artificial heat, they had wintered 
well, other conditions being equal. Very often, when a 
cellar was dry, and a constant fire was kept above, the 
most satisfactory results were attained. Mr. J. H. Buck- 
lin, of Little Falls, N. Y., wintered bees in a room, par- 
titioned off in a cellar, with a brick wall between it and 

* I have found buckwheat chaff to be preferable to other materials for packing. 



218 WINTERING. 

a furnace, during the most disastrous seasons, when 
nearly all the bees near him perished ; he had admirable 

success. 

DRYNESS. 

I can not place too much stress upon the necessity of 
dry air and surroundings where bees are to be wintered. 
It is generally conceded that Mr. Quinby was the first to 
advocate the importance of keeping bees uniformly warm. 
Could he, instead of myself, have been able to revise this 
work, he would have urged the imperative need of a dry 
atmosphere as well as a uniform temperature. After his 
discovery that the bee, when in a healthy condition, 
voided its faeces in a dry state, he clearly saw that to aid in 
carrying off the moisture, a dry atmosphere as well as a 
sufficient degree of heat was indispensable. Therefore, 
after experimenting with nearly every method that has 
been brought to my notice, I have come to practice and 
advise in-door wintering exclusively, because in no other 
way can these requisites be so certainly provided. The 
objection that this involves extra labor and expense is 
more than met by the diminished consumption of food. 
Experiments in weighing colonies monthly, both in-doors 
and out, prove that bees properly provided for in-doors, 
will consume from one-third to one-half less honey than 
when exposed to the changeable weather of our northern 
winters. This saving will more than balance any consid- 
erations of extra expense. 

Objections to wintering in a cellar often arise from a 
lack of understanding of some of the requisites. To 
economize room, the hives are often set as close to the 
wall as possible, where they absorb moisture, and become 
mouldy and unhealthy. Again, they are placed upon 
shelves attached to the supports of the floor above, and 
are thus subjected to every jar from the room above them, 
with proportionately bad results. 



WINTERING. 249 

BEST ARRANGEMENT OF A CELLAR. 

The part to be used for the storage of the bees should 
be directly beneath a room where a fire is regularly kept. 
The cellar bottom should be well laid with hydraulic ce- 
ment, and the walls plastered and pointed with the same. 
This cement prevents moisture from passing into the 
cellar. A cellar should be most thoroughly dried when 
thus prepared with cement, before bees are placed in it. 
I have known very serious results ensue where this pre- 
caution was not observed. It is sometimes needful to 
place a stove in the wintering apartment, connecting it 
with the stove-pipe above by means of the ventilating 
pipe, and keep a constant fire for a month, in order to 
bring it to a fit condition for use. 

The room should be closely partitioned off with 
matched lumber, so that it will not admit the least ray 
of light. On the sides next to the wall it should be 
ceiled about one foot from it. If this is not done, 
that space, at least, should be left unoccupied. The bees 
would do better in a solid body in the center of the room 
than close to the walls. Fresh air should be brought 
into the room through a window or similar opening by 
means of a tube, or air conductor, made of boards, six or 
eight inches square. Let it extend to the bottom and 
across the room, with holes bored at frequent intervals, 
the entire length, to distribute the air more evenly to all 
parts of the room, and avoid a current to any one point, 
as even a sudden rush of air is objectionable. A five-inch 
pipe should start near the bottom of the cellar, pass up 
through the floor, and enter the stove pipe above, as near 
the stove as possible, to afford an escape for cold and im- 
pure air. This may be arranged with a f near the floor 
above, with an aperture to be opened or closed at pleasure 
for the purpose of drawing off the warm air when desired 
from the upper part of the cellar. This ventilating pipe 



250 



WINTERING. 



should be provided with a tight-fitting damper in the 
room above, that may be regulated at will. The benches, 
or supports upon which the hives are to stand, should be 
short and rest upon the solid bottom of the cellar, © 
and the hives placed upon them in tiers, so that 
the tiers will not touch each other, or the sides of 
the room. In this manner, but few need be dis- 
turbed at once in packing away, or what is more 
important, in taking out in spring. If the bench 
is long enough to hold several tiers of hives, there 
will be a disturbance of all when any one is moved. 
The thermometer (fig. 100) to test the temperature 
should be dropped through a hole in the floor 
above, and attached, by means of a cord, to a cork 
that fills the hole. The temperature should be 
kept as nearly at 45° as possible. I should prefer 
that it never drop below 40° nor rise above 50°. 
If it rises too high, the damper in the pipe above 
should be opened to permit the warm air to be 
drawn out, and the tube from the outside also open- 
ed, to allow pure cool air to take its place. With 
a temperature of 45°, it is usually prudent to give v *- 100 - 
both upward and lower ventilation in the hives. If a 
quilt is used over movable frames, it will be porous 
enough to afford the desired upward ventilation. In box- 
hives, the holes in the top should be loosely filled with 
rags, and the hives raised slightly upon the bottom board 
to admit air. In this regard, my experience differs with 
that of Hetherington and Elwood, who use tight caps 
over their frames in wintering. 



A SPECIAL BUILDING FOR WINTERING. 

Where bee-keeping is made a specialty, and the very 
best arrangements for wintering are desired, they may 
without doubt be best secured by building a repository 



WttfTEMHG. 251 

for the purpose. Many recommend a house built above 
ground with walls of several thicknesses, well packed, 
and dead-air spaces between. Mr. E. Bacon, of Verona, 
N. Y., uses such a house, and pronounces it a success. 
The best one of the kind that I ever saw was built by- 
Captain Hetherington, and it seemed as well adapted to 
the purpose as could be wished ; yet Mr. Hetherington 
has discarded it as a failure, and adopted the system of 
" clamps," which I am about to describe. 

CLAMPS. 

Those who have read Mr. Langstroth's work on the 
Honey Bee have doubtless been much interested in an 
article by the Kev. Mr. Scholtz, translated from the 
"Bieneu Zeitung," by Mr. Wagner, which describes a 
system of wintering in clamps. This method of Mr. 
Scholtz's has led to an improved clamp or bee-house, 
partly underground, which is proving an admirable suc- 
cess. This is really but an improved form of the old 
method of burying bees. Mr. Hibbard, of Auburn, N. 
Y., modified the Scholtz clamp by erecting a permanent 
framework for the sides, but with a temporary roof or 
covering. In 1873, P. H. Elwood, of Starkville, N. Y., 
prepared a clamp, over which he arranged a permanent 
roof, and built a door for convenience in entering the 
apartment. The bottom and sides were covered with 
hydraulic cement. Clamps similar to this are now used 
by many of the leading bee-keepers of New York State, 
with the best results. 

Captain Hetherington, after making some changes, 
and furnishing facilities for artificial heat and a most 
thorough system of ventilation, has adopted this system 
of wintering in his extensive apiaries. He has three very 
fine double clamps, one of which is represented in figure 
101. A clamp of this form is built by first making an ex- 



252 



WINTERING. 



cavation in a dry knoll, or side-hill, to the depth of about 
three feet. If the number of bees only demand a single 
clamp, the door may be placed at the end ; but if a double 
clamp with two rooms is needed, the door should be at 
the center of one side, opening into the ante-room for the 
stove, between the two apartments. This idea of warm- 
ing clamps with a stove is original with Captain Hether- 
ington. A wall should be laid in hydraulic cement 
around the sides of this three-foot excavation, upon which 
plates should be laid to support the rafters. These 




Fig. 101. —DOUBLE CLAMP. 



should be sufficiently heavy to sustain the superincum- 
bent weight. The roof should be quite steep. Slats 
about three inches wide are nailed over the entire sur- 
face of the rafters, about one-fourth of an inch apart. 
Over these straw is spread to keep the earth from falling 
through before it becomes packed. The ends should be 
walled or banked to the peak of the roof, and the entire 
top covered with at least twelve inches of dry earth. A 
good roof should be put over all to keep it perfectly dry. 
In the thick side wall, double doors should be built, 
containing an air space. Similar doors should be made 
to the rooms inside. The stove is to be set up in the 
small ante-room, and fresh air brought to it through 
tubes, and warmed when needful. Openings from the 
stove-room to the bee-rooms should be made at the top 



WINTERING. 253 

and bottom of the partitions. Ventilating pipes must be 
arranged at the top of each bee-room. As the air is 
warmed by the stove, and passes to the room occupied by \ 
the bees, through the upper openings, a strong current of 
colder air will be created from the lower part of the room, 
in the direction of the stove. Capt. Hetherington beds 
his stove in a brick arch, in such a manner that an open- 
ing is left under the stove. This opening connects with 
the lower opening into the bee-rooms on each side, and 
also with the bottom of the chimney. The stove-pipe 
enters the chimney, and passes up inside, nearly to the 
top. When a fire is made, the air warmed in the chim- 
ney by this pipe, increases the draft, and the air warmed 
under the stove is also drawn up the chimney, and is re- 
placed by the colder air from the bee-rooms. The fresh 
air brought to the top of the stove from without, will, 
when warmed, pass through the upper openings, and re- 
place the impure air drawn out at the bottom. The ven- 
tilating pipes, as well as the chimney, should be provided 
with hoods at the top, in order to secure a perfect draft. 
The perfection of this plan of ventilation will at once be 
appreciated. 

WHEN TO PLACE BEES IK WINTER QUARTERS. 

It is frequently advised to leave bees on their summer 
stands as late as possible, that they may improve the very 
last opportunity for a flight before being put away for 
winter. I am fully persuaded that this practice is inju- 
dicious, although it doubtless has some advantages. Few 
who have not been close observers, can realize the number 
of bees wasted by venturing from the hive during cold, 
fall weather. Besides avoiding this loss, if we put them 
in winter quarters early, they go in with the hives dry 
and free from frost. The most suitable period will vary 
in different sections. It frequently occurs in our north- 
ern latitudes, that they are not put in until the first fall 



254 WINTERING. 

of snow. This is taken as evidence of the approach of 
winter, and the bees are at once put away, with the hives 
damp and in bad condition. Here let me mention an 
item in favor of the Quinby hive. The frames only being 
removed to the cellar or bee-room, upon a separate bottom- 
board, are perfectly dry, even in a stormy time. There- 
fore I deem it wise to put bees into their winter quarters 
much earlier than is customary with many apiarians. 
After a warm, dry day, when all have had an opportunity 
to fly, is the most suitable time. In our locality the date 
varies from November the 1st to the 15th, according to 
the severity of the weather. 

FLIGHT DURING WINTER. 

Many apiarians have the idea that it is very beneficial 
to bees to allow them to fly out, at intervals during the 
winter, many recommending it to be done as often as th© 
weather will permit. Bees may be wintered in such a 
damp and unsuitable place that this may be absolutely 
necessary, but it is hardly worth while for me to say to 
any one who has followed me thus far, that I consider it 
not only unnecessary, but injurious, when proper pro- 
vision has been made for their well-being within. If bees 
are found to leave their hives and fall upon the cellar 
bottom, they should be brushed up and carried out, as 
they will give the room a disagreeable odor, and render it 
unhealthful. 

SETTING OUT BEES TOO EARLY IN SPRING. 

We are frequently told to remove our bees from winter 
quarters on the first warm days in spring ; even as early 
as March 1st. I am constrained to say that, as a rule, I 
consider this a serious mistake. The reason given for so 
doing is, that the bees are leaving their hives and wasting 
Upon the floor in such numbers, that if not soon set out 



WINTEKING. 255 

and allowed a purifying flight, they will all be lost. One 
bushel of bees upon a cellar floor, where 100 hives are 
stored, seems an alarming waste ; yet when they are 
placed upon their summer stands so early as to be exposed 
to chilly weather and piercing winds, three or four times 
that quantity may be lost, but being scattered broadcast 
about the grounds, or to whatever distance they may ven- 
ture for water or pollen, they are unnoticed, and the loss 
is not appreciated. This extreme should be carefully 
avoided. It is a good rule to leave them as long as 
they will remain quiet. In my own practice I prefer not 
to set them out until just as the Soft or Eed Maple 
begins to blossom. 

HEALTHY EXCEEMENT IS ALWAYS DEY. 

Every observing bee-keeper has noticed in winter, 
upon the bottom-board, directly under a healthy swarm, 
ridges of dust which has fallen from between the combs. 

Mr. Quinby made many experiments with this dust, 
having it carefully analyzed, and became convinced, be- 
yond doubt, that it contained the excrement of the bee, 
voided in a dry state. 

The correctness of this conclusion can be tested, by 
placing a small quantity of this dust in a little water, 
and heating it sufficiently to melt the wax, coming from 
the uncapping of the combs, mingled with it; the residue 
then will be found to be precisely the same substance 
as the liquid excrement of the bee, when it has been con- 
fined to damp and unwholesome quarters. This discovery 
Mr. Quinby conceived to have an important bearing upon 
successful wintering, as heretofore mentioned, and to 
indicate the necessity of furnishing dry and warm sur- 
roundings to promote healthful conditions. 

Careful observations, by others, as well as myself, con- 
firm the truth and importance of his conclusion. An 



256 HOtfEY. 

instance which afforded me very satisfactory proof of his 
correctness, was on an occasion, when I set my bees from 
the cellar on the 3d and 4th days of May, after they had 
been housed since November 17th, in a dry and well- ven- 
tilated room, and kept exceedingly quiet, during the 
entire period. When set upon their summer stands, the 
bees were in so nearly a dormant condition, that they 
were slowly aroused ; the weather being quite warm, the 
usual voiding of faeces in a liquid state did not take 
place, and clean, new roofs were not soiled in the least. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

HONEY. 

The careful Bible reader cannot fail to be impressed 
with the prominence of honey as an article of food in all 
early times. Indeed, it seems to have been an element in 
sacred rites, and to have been held in especial esteem 
through all the primitive ages. It would appear that 
in the estimation of moderns, honey and its uses have 
lost much of their ancient reputation. At the present 
day, honey is generally considered as merely a luxury, 
without any special, nutritive, or medicinal value. 

USES AS FOOD AND MEDICINE. 

There is a growing interest, however, in these particu- 
lars, and I anticipate a period not far distant, when its 
value will be more fully recognized. In his little pam- 
phlet on "Honey as Food and Medicine," Thos. G. 
Newman gives us much information on this topic. 

Honey is not only desirable when combined with our 
food, but is regarded by many as useful in some forms of 



HONEY. »o I 

disease. In coughs, or affections of the lungs, honey 
has long been used, either in its pure state, or when com- 
bined with other remedies. It is also efficacious in the 
treatment of burns. Let the injured part be com- 
pletely moistened with liquid honey, and immediately 
covered with plenty of dry flour. This effectually ex- 
cludes the air, and materially aids in the cure. I con- 
sider this a remedy worthy of attention in every household. 

ADULTERATION OF SYRUPS. 

The use of honey on our tables has largely decreased 
since the cheap production of sugars. The day has come, 
however, when the alarming adulteration of sugar and 
syrups, especially the latter, will arouse consumers to the 
necessity of procuring a more wholesome sweet. These 
frauds are becoming truly fearful, inasmuch as we are in- 
jured, not only pecuniarily, but in what is far more im- 
portant to us, health. The State Board of Health 
in Michigan, conceiving the evil to be beyond farther 
toleration, has been actively engaged in determining the 
exact character of these vile productions. Dr. Kedzie, 
of the Michigan Agricultural College, has analyzed syrups 
purchased of reliable grocers, and fifteen out of seventeen 
samples showed the presence of lime, copperas, and free 
sulphuric acid, to an alarming degree. According to a 
statement in a respectable paper, he found in some of them 
140 grains of sulphuric acid, 30 of copperas, and 724 of 
lime, to the gallon. In the existence of such a state of 
things, it must be that an increased demand will arise for 
pure and reliable honey. 

DIFFERENT QUALITIES OF HONEY. 

The quality of honey depends materially upon the 
class of blossoms from which it is gathered. In our 
Northern latitudes, probably no finer flavored honey is to 



258 HONEY. > 

be found than that gathered from Basswood, White Clo- 
ver, and Baspberry. The color is light, and the flavor de- 
licious. Buckwheat honey is considered the most inferior 
grade, being darker in color, and less agreeable in flavor. 
Between these are various grades, that from the Melilot 
or sweet clover being with us the most marked, and bet- 
ter in quality than the color would indicate. The honey 
from the White Sage of California is beautiful in color, 
but the flavor is inferior to that from Basswood. The 
idea entertained by some that honey can be manufactured 
from sugar by some mysterious process of the bees is to- 
tally erroneous. We need not occupy space in commend- 
ing fine box-honey. Those who can indulge in it will 
appreciate the luxury. Yet it needs to be borne in mind 
by consumers that the quality of the honey is no better 
for being stored in dainty combs. 

EXTEACTED HONEY. 

Nothing in the progress of bee-keeping is more striking 
than the processes for securing honey free from comb. 
Compare the old-time " strained honey," flavored with 
bitter pollen, dead bees, and other dubious elements, 
with the pure, mint-flavored, snowy crystals of extracted 
honey which, next to a translucent comb filled with the 
nectar of a thousand blossoms, is the pride of the bee- 
keeper. It is beyond question that if, in the future, this 
sweet is included among the necessities or ordinary lux- 
uries of the masses, it will be in the form of extracted 
honey. And that it is both cheap and desirable indicates 
that it will at no distant day take the place of deleterious 
syrups. Experiment in its adaptation to various culinary 
purposes will show its availability in many directions 
hitherto unthought of. If in a cask or can of honey that 
is candied hard, a hole is made in the center several inches 
deep, and a quantity removed, the liquid part of that at 



HONEY. 259 

the sides will drain into this cavity, when it may be 
dipped out, leaving the crystals nearly or quite dry, the 
condition depending upon the temperature. This grained 
honey may then be used in many ways, instead of sugar. 
It may also be drained by placing it upon a sieve. 

ADULTERATION OF HONEY. 

The extent to which fraud has been carried in respect 
to honey, demands the attention of all honest bee-keepers. 
When honey was retailing for from 25 to 50 cents per lb., 
there was a temptation to adulterate it with cane sugar, 
which was harmless in a sanitary point of view ; but the 
reduction in the price of honey renders this form of fraud 
unprofitable. The evil which we are now called upon to 
combat, is the use of grape sugar and glucose.* It is 
gratifying to notice how promptly the effort to introduce 
the practice of feeding grape sugar to bees, has been met 
by Mr. Dadant, Dr. Shearer, and others. I observe with 
pride, the firm stand taken by the " American Bee Jour- 
nal " against this threatening evil. It is possible to feed 
grape sugar to bees for their own use, and yet keep our 
surplus honey uncontaminated ; but in this, as in the use 
of comb-foundation for boxes, I am disposed to take radi- 
cal ground and protest against anything that gives a color 
of suspicion to our products. In order that consumers, 
and dealers as well, may be able to detect adulteration, a 
few facts concerning it may not be out of place. Let me 
say, first, that honorable dealers have it in their power to 
seek out perfectly reliable producers, and establish a lucra- 
tive trade on the basis of unadulterated products. The 
first fact to be understood is, that all granulated or 
candied honey is presumably pure. The natural infer- 

* While grape sugar and glucose are chemically the same, the article* bearing 
th*»se names in commerce are quite unlike. Commercial glucose, produced from 
starch by the action of acids, is a thick sehii-liquid, very inferior in sweetness. 



260 HONEY. 

ence is, that such is the best to buy. If liquid honey is 
preferred, follow directions in Chap. XVI., and prepare 
it yourselves. 

It is also well established that all pure honey will, as a 
general rule, granulate, if exposed to a sufficiently low 
temperature. To this rule exceptions have been reported, 
and such have occurred under my own observations, as 
will soon be noticed. Thus, ordinary honey remaining 
liquid in cold weather, when exposed to the air, should 
be regarded as suspicious, and put to a test. The pres- 
ence of glucose in such honey may be ascertained as fol- 
lows : Place a small quantity in a cup, and add to it 
some strong tea. If the poorer grades of glucose are 
present, it will turn dark, like ink. If it is combined 
with the better qualities of glucose, the fact may be de- 
termined by the use of a little alcohol. Pure honey will 
unite with alcohol, but glucose has no affinity for it, and 
they will separate, like oil and water. A common method 
of adulteration has been practised by placing a piece of 
fine comb-honey in a jelly cup and filling it up with glu- 
cose. If this were pure honey it would become candied 
and conceal the comb. Yet these are found unchanged 
npon our grocers' shelves the year round. If honey is put 
in a can, and heated and sealed, the same as fruit is 
canned, it will remain liquid until opened. The speci- 
mens of comb mentioned above could not have been thus 
treated, as the process would have melted the comb. 

It has been said that the simple addition of water 
would prevent granulation, but this is not true. The 
usual effect is, when in a cool place, for the honey to 
be thick and candied at the bottom, and thin at the top ; 
and if in a warm place, it will be likely to sour. Experi- 
ments indicate that the presence of moisture is necessary 
to produce, granulation. I have thoroughly evaporated 
the moisture, and at the same time, expelled the air from 
a vessel of honey, so that it would stand open in a cold, 



NOTES FOR THE SEASONS. 261 

d ry place, during the entire winter, without change. But 
the honey was so dense after this complete evaporation, 
as hardly to run when the can was inclined to one side ; 
being very different in this respect from the liquid honey 
offered for sale in cold weather. I have known honey 
thus treated, to remain uncandied in a large vessel even 
when frequently disturbed, which corroborates my view 
of the influence of moisture. These instances being sub- 
ject to special treatment, can hardly controvert the state- 
ment as to the doubtful nature of honey that remains un- 
candied when exposed to cold. 

The obvious course for bee-keepers, in the matter of 
adulterations, is, first of all, to secure legislation that will 
effectually prohibit this unprincipled traffic. Stringent 
laws of this character are successfully carried out in 
foreign countries. Bee-keepers may, individually, place 
their products above question, by fair and open dealing, 
and avoiding any practices that may arouse even the 
slightest suspicion. Consumers and dealers have it in 
their power to protect themselves by observing the facts 
and tests mentioned, and last of all, almost any one dis- 
posed, can supply his own household and table with this 
desirable sweet, by following Mr. Quinby's oft-repeated 
advice to appropriate the " honey wasting at their own 
doors, which may be had, not for the asking, but for the 
taking. " 



CHAPTER XIX. 

NOTES FOR THE SEASONS. 

SPRING. 

Bees should not be allowed to fly during March and 
early April in our northern latitude, if it can be pre- 
vented. Those in-doors sHould be left as quiet as 



262 NOTES FOR THE SEASONS. 

possible. It is usually safe to set them out just before 
Soft or Red Maple blooms. At this time there will prob- 
ably be but little brood in the hives, but after the first 
flight, the queen will commence depositing eggs. Each 
hive should now be examined to ascertain its exact con- 
dition. In making these examinations it will be conveni- 
ent to begin with a clean, empty hive. Remove the hive 
from its stand and put the empty one in its place. Take 
out the combs and put them into the empty hive. Eggs 
in the cells will attest to the presence of a queen. Set 
aside such combs as are not occupied by the bees, leaving 
those that contain honey. After cleaning this hive thor- 
oughly, use it for the next one in the same manner until 
all have been inspected. If any are found destitute of 
sealed honey, supply them from such as have a surplus, 
or with combs reserved for the purpose. 

If colonies are found to be queenless, or possessing de- 
ficient queens, unite them with others having queens. It 
will often be judicious to unite weak colonies. 

Keep entrances contracted, to prevent robbing, 
and shut off all upward ventilation, to retain the 
warmth. 

Stimulate breeding, and see that no stock is destitute 
of food at any time. Add empty combs as rapidly as the 
stocks become populous enough to demand it. This is 
the time to purchase bees, and transfer them from box- 
hives to movable comb-hives. 

Cards of brood may often be taken from the best stocks 
and used to strengthen weaker ones to advantage. Fill 
the place of such cards with clean, empty combs. It is 
often best to place these in the center of the strong 
swarms, in such a position in the brood-nest that the 
queen will immediately occupy them. It is under such 
favorable circumstances as these that the largest number 
of eggs is deposited in a single day. 

In some sections the best colonies will sometimes send 



NOTES FOE THE SEASONS. 263 

out swarms in May, for which hives should be in readi- 
ness. Queen-rearing may be begun, if desired. 

Look well to any scarcity of honey that may occur, and 
supply all deficiencies by feeding. 

SUMMEE. 

Arrange hives for boxing and extracting. 

Have everything in readiness for swarms, if this sys- 
tem is to be practised. 

Rear queens, and make artificial swarms. 

Ventilate strong swarms in the warmest weather. 

Remove surplus boxes as soon as full, and supply the 
place of the first ones with empty boxes. 

Look out for the moth-larvae, in surplus honey, and 
f,xtra combs. 

Extract at suitaVe intervals. 

If preparations are to be made for wintering bees in- 
doors, the work should be done in warm weather, that all 
damp material may be well dried before the room is oc- 
cupied by the bees. Do not neglect refuse comb designed 
for wax. 

AUTUMN". 

Prepare bees for winter, and see that all stocks are in 
condition to rear young bees for winter. 

Supply all deficiencies in queens. 

Secure the fall yield of honey in combs for future use, 
or have new combs built for guides in boxes. 

Prepare honey for market. The development of a 
home trade should be borne in mind at all times. A 
good Jocal market is an important item with all produc- 
ers. Reserve a sufficient amount of honey, when ship- 
ping, to meet such demands. 

Place bees in winter quarters early, and observe the in- 
structions given for wintering 



264 CONCLUSION. 

WINTER, 

If all requirements have been observed, bees will now 
need but little care. 

Attend to proper ventilation and temperature, as 
required by changes of the weather. 

Prepare hives, boxes, and other material for the com- 
ing season. 

Clean up and pack away boxes that are to be used 
the second time. 

Eead and study out subjects of interest ; and be ready 
to begin the ensuing season's work promptly, with an ade- 
quate comprehension of the extent of the business to be 
conducted, and a just appreciation of the details therein 
involved. 



CHAPTER XX. 
CONCLUSION. 



Those who have perused these pages with care will no- 
tice that I have not dwelt largely upon the most favorable 
aspects of our pursuit, but have endeavored to present 
all its phases in a candid and unbiased manner. Un- 
doubtedly the cause of many failures lies in the unwar- 
ranted anticipations of beginners. The extremes which 
are incident to the business make it impossible to test it 
fairly, with the experience of but one or two years. The 
united results of a series of years must be averaged in or- 
der to arrive at a proper estimate of profits. This being 
done, I conceive that it offers a fair prospect of reason- 
able remuneration for labor and capital invested, and is a 
calling which develops a healthy consciousness of " earn' 
ing one's bread by the sweat of the brow." 

Although the amateur may not be able to keep bees or 



i v 



COHCLtTSIOtf. 



2c5 



a small scale as profitably as the specialist with all con- 
veniences at his command, yet there is ample argument 
in favor of small ventures in this direction. The gain is 
not altogether pecuniary, or in the gratification of the 
palate. To those engaged in sedentary pursuits, a chance 
for healthful exercise and diversion is often more than 
these. Beyond all these there is yet a higher good. All 
intimacy with the operations of nature has a silent but 
beneficent influence. Whatever tends to develop our 
perceptions of the wonders of creation, even as manifes v 
in the mission of a tiny bee, can but cause us to " look 
beyond these results to their Divine Author." 



■■■€*■ 



INDEX. 



Acer rubrum 49 

Acer saccharinum 50 

Adulteration of Honey . . . 258 

Syrups 256 

After Swarms 162 

Alders 49 

Alighting Board 113 

Allen, John 22 

"American Bee Journal " 21 

41 Anatomy and Physiology of the 

Honey Bee " 22 

Ants and Bees 231 

Apiarian, Preparation Needed 66 

Apiary, Arrangement of 70 

" Building in 70 

" CostofBees 81 

44 " Fixtures 82 

44 Financial Results 84 

44 Gravel in 73 

44 Home 77 

44 Location of 67 

44 Moving in 76 

44 Overstocking 85 

41 Sawdust in 73 

44 Shadein 76 

4 ' Shelter Needed 68 

44 WaterNear 68 

Apple Blossoms 50 

Artificial Comb 193 

Asclepias Cornuti 53 

Asilus Missouriensis 229 

Autumn, Work for 152 

BalmofGilead 29 

Balsam Poplar 29 

Basswood 55 

44 YieldofHoney 56 

Bee-bread 28 

Bee-houses 77 

44 Bee Journal " 20 

4 Bee-Keeper's Directory " 19 

44 Bee-Keeper's Guide." 21 

u Bee-Keeper's Magazine." 21 

Bee-keeping in Cities and Villages.. 69 

4 * Journals 20 

Old and New 17 

Bee-killer 229 

(266) 



Bee-moth 177-223 

Bee-veil 92 

Bees, Artificial Increase 165 

44 Carniolans 48 

44 Colony, Numbers 26 

44 Controlled by Smoke 89 

44 Controlling ... 87 

44 Controlling Swarming 168 

44 Cost of : 81 

44 Cyprians 47 

" Diseases and Enemies of. 216 

44 Disposition 87 

44 Do they Injure Fruit? 63 

44 Drone 26 

44 Drone-laying Queen 149 

44 Dividing Colonies 166 

44 Eggs and Hatching 32 

44 Enemies 216 

44 Excrement of 254 

44 Feeding 204 

44 Fertilizing Queen 131 

44 Financial Results from 84 

44 Flying in Winter 253 

44 FoulBroodin 217 

44 Generation in 35 

4 * Hiving Swarms 158 

44 How far will they go ? 65 

44 How to Select 80 

" Houses for 77 

44 in Warm Climates 27 

44 Italian 39 

44 Italian, Characters of 40 

44 Italian, Excellencies Claim- 
ed 41 

" Italians and Natives Com- 
pared 47 

44 Italians, how to procure. ... 47 

44 Injured by Silk-weed 53 

44 Ligurian 39 

" Marking Location 73 

44 Moving for Pasturage 65 

44 Moving Short Distances 74 

44 Natural Increase 152 

44 Nucleus System for Queens. 137 

44 Overstocking 85 

44 Parasites of 217-219 



INDEX. 



2G7 



Bees, Persons Offensive to 88 

44 Preparing for Transporta- 
tion 83 

44 Preparing for Winter 241 

44 Preventing Drones 130 

44 Protection from 92 

14 Queen 23 

41 Queens, Bearing 132 

41 Queens, Selecting 129 

44 Quiet in Winter Essential. . .244 

" Robbing 212 

* Setting Out in Spring 253 

44 TheStingof 25 

u Swarming of 34-152 

44 Syrians 47 

44 Taking on Shares 84 

44 Transferring 125 

44 Transportation of, Beneficial. 80 

44 Transporting 82 

44 When to Purchase 79 

44 When to Take in 250 

44 Where to Buy 97 

44 Wintering 241 

44 Wintering in Cellar 248 

41 Wintering in Clamps 250 

44 Wintering, Dryness Essen- 
tial 247 

44 Wintering In-doors 246 

44 Wintering in Quinby Hive. . .243 

" Wintering, Heat in .246 

44 Wintering Out-of-doors 244 

44 Wintering, Building for 249 

44 Worker 24 

Birds 230 

Block for Setting Up Boxes 118 

Borage 52 

Bottles for Honey 241 

Bottom Board, Large no 

44 44 Small 107 

Box for Queen Cell 141 

Box- honey, Care of 176 

Boxes, Block for Setting Up 118 

44 Clamp for 123 

" Honey 115 

s Puttingon 172 

44 Removing 175 

44 Section 120 

44 Single Comb 120 

44 Standard for 119 

44 Supplying 173 

44 Two-comb 117 

Boxing and Surplus Honey 172 

Bread. Bee 28 



Brood-nest, Form of 30 

Brood-rearing 30 

Buckwheat 60 

Buildings for Wintering 249 

Bush Honeysuckle 53 

Button Bush 59 

Candied Honey 239 

Cases, Making 237 

44 Marking.. '. 236 

Cat-bird, Useful 231 

Catnip 52 

Cellar for Wintering Bees 248 

Cells, Distorted 197 

44 How Filled 29 

44 Size of 192 

Cephalanthus occidentalis 59 

Chrysalis 33 

Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum. . . 52 

Cider-mills Attract Bees 64 

Clamp for Boxes 123 

44 4 " Wintering 249 

Clasp for Hive, Quinby's Ill 

44 VanDeusen's 184 

Clipping Queen's Wings 14T 

Clover, Alsike 51 

Red 51 

44 Sweet-scented 60 

44 White 50 

Cocoon 32 

Comb, Artificial 193 

44 andWax 190 

44 Construction of 27 

44 Costof 193 

" Foundation 195 

44 44 Wire in 196 

44 How Built 191 

44 in Unnatural Position 73 

44 Material for 194 

44 Size of Cells 192 

Combs, Filling for Feeding 209 

Guide 122 

44 Metallic 194 

44 Securing Extra 189 

44 Guide 189 

Straight 168 

Coe's House Apiary 77 

Colony Consists of 23 

Controlling Bees 87 

Cook, Prof. A. J., Book. 22 

Cook. Prof., on Impregnation 37 

Cost of Bees and Fixtures 81 

Cotton 61 

Daisy, Ox-eye Qg 



268 



index. 



Dandelion 50 

Diervilla trtfida 53 

Dipsacus Fullonum 57 

44 sylvestris 57 

Diseases, Dysentery 216 

Foul Brood 217 

" of Bees 216 

Distance Bees Fly 64 

Distorted Cells 197 

Dividing Colonies .166 

Division Board 101 

Dress for Bee-keeper 92 

" " Women 93 

Doolittle, G. M., on Teasel 57 

Drone Cells 33 

Drone, Described 26 

Drone-laying Queens 149 

Drones Destroyed 35 

" Preventing 130 

Dryness in Winter 247 

Dysentery 216 

Dzierzon on Generation 35 

Egg-laying, Process of 31 

Eggs, Hatching... 32 

" Impregnation of 36 

41 Sizeof 31 

Evaporator for Honey .188 

Excrement, Healthy Always Dry . . .254 

Extracted Honey 257 

" " Curing 187 

Extracting, Arranging Hives for. .. 183 

" Honey 180 

" How., 185 

When 183 

Extractor, Desirable Features 182 

44 Wax 202 

Feeder, Van Deusen's... 207 

" With Quinby Hive... 206 

Feeding in Combs .209 

44 Necessity for 204 

14 Preparing Food 206 

" Spring 210 

44 Surplus 210 

" What? 205 

Fertile Workers 38 

Food, Preparing 206 

Food Should be Warm 211 

Fold Brood.... 217 

" " Due to Fungus 218 

" " Remedy 218 

Foundation Comb 195 

44 in Boxes 200 

44 Machine ....... 198 



Foundation Machine, Cost of 201 

41 To Fasten 200 

44 Use and Value of 199 

Frames, Form for Making. 106 

44 Hanging 100 

44 Section 116 

Fruit Tree Blossoms 48 

Fuller's Teasel 57 

Generation 35 

Girdwoyn, Michel , 22 

Gleanings in Bee Culture. 21 

Golden Rods.... 60 

GradingHoney 236 

Grain, Do Bees Injure ? 62 

Guide Combs 122 

44 " Securing 189 

Hanging-Frame Hive .... 96 

Harbison, J. S 19 

Heat Needed in Winter 246 

Hetherington, Capt. J. E., Memori- 
al of M. Quinby 13 

Hives, Accuracy is Essential. . . .. .115 

44 Alighting Board for 113 

44 Arrange for Extracting 183 

•* 4 Arrangement in Apiary 71 

44 Case for 108 

44 Clamp for Boxes 123 

44 Clasp for Ill 

44 Complete Quinby 109 

44 Distance Between 72 

44 Guide Combs 122 

44 Hanging Frame 96-100 

44 Honey Board 118 

44 Honey Boxes 115 

41 Iron Roof 76 

44 Langstroth's 97 

44 Movable Comb 95 

44 Non-Swarming 168 

44 Observatory 102 

44 Painting 114 

44 Quinby, Bottom-Boards 107-110 

44 Quinby, Panel for 107 

44 Quinby, The New 103 

44 Quinby, With Roof. 112 

44 Roofs for 76-113 

44 Setting Level 72 

44 Section Frames Objected to. 116 

44 Separators. 122 

44 Side-Boxing 101 

44 Standing Frame lOi 

44 Stand* for 73-112 

44 Upon Roofs 70 

Hiving a Swarm 158 



INDEX. 



2C9 



Honey, Adulteration of 258 

Best Season for 66 

Buckwheat 60 

Care of Box 176 

Cases for 237 

Curing Extracted 187 

Dealers in 237 

Different Qualities of 256 

Extracted 257 

" Packages for 239 

" Preparing for 

Market 238 

Extracting 180 

Gathering and Storing 28 

Grading 236 

How to Extract 185 

Liquefying Candied 239 

Marketing 232 

Packing 236 

Securing Choice 178 

Sources of 48 

Surplus 172 

Teasel 58 

Transportation of 238 

Uses of 255 

Yield of Bass wood 56 

Honey-boxes 115 

Honey-dew 61 

Honey-extractor 180 

Honey -knives 188 

Honey-plants, Early 49 

" Later 59 

Insects and Diseases 216 

" Ants 231 

11 Bee-killer 229 

" Bee-moth 223 

" Foul Brood.... 217 

" Honey-bug 222 

" Spiders 231 

' ' Trichodes Apiarius 222 

Honey Board 118 

Honey Bug ... 222 

Honeysuckle, Bush 53 

Horehound 52 

Hornets Injure Fruit 64 

House Apiary 77 

Increase, Artificial 165 

Natural 152 

Introducing Queens 144 

Italian Bees 39 

Italians, Characteristics of 40 

" Compared with Natives. .. 47 
" Excellencies Claimed 41 



I Italians, How to Procure 47 

Journals, Bee 20 

King, A. J. & Co 21 

King-Bird Killing Bees 230 

Knife for Uncapping 188 

Langstroth, Rev. L. L 19 

" Langstroth on the Honey Bee,". . 21 

Langstroth's Hive 95 

Larva. . 32 

Larvae, Feeding of 32 

Leonurus Cardiaca 52 

Leucanthemum vulgare 52 

Lewis, Hon. Harris, Cider Mill 64 

Ligurian Bees 39 

Linden 55 

Liriodendron Tulipifera 55 

Locust 50 

Loss of Queen 151 

Magnifying Glass 223 

" Manual of the Apiary," 22 

Maple, Red 49 

" Soft 49 

Susar 49 

Marketing Honey 232 

" Large Cases 233 

Small Cases 233 

" Preparing Boxes 235 

Marrubium vulgare. 52 

Melilot 60 

Melon Family 59 

Memorial of M. Quinby 13 

Mice and Rats 229 

Michigan State Agr'l College 67 

Microscope 223 

Mignonette 59 

Milk-weed 53 

Motherwort 52 

Moth-proof Hives 228 

Movable Comb-hive 95 

" Advantages... 95 

Moving Bees 74 

Mustard 59 

"Mysteries of Bee-keeping Ex- 
plained" 18 

Nellis, J. H 21 

" " House Apiary 78 

Nepeta Cataria 52 

"New Bee-keeper's Text Book "... 12 

Newman, Thos. G. & Son 21 

Nucleus Box 133 

Non-swarming Hives 168 

Nymph 33 

Observatory Hive 108 



270 



INDEX. 



Overstocking 85 

Ox-eye Daisy 62 

Packing Honey 236 

Painting Hives 114 

Panels for Side of Frames 104 

Parasites 219 

" Honey-bug 222 

" Trichodes Apiarius 222 

Partheno-genesis 35 

Pollen from Pumpkins 59 

" Gathering and Storing 27 

44 Sources of 49 

Poplar, Balsam 29 

'* BalmofGilead 29 

Populus Balsamif era 29 

" Var. Candi- 

cans 29 

Preparing Extracted Honey for 

Market, 238 

Propolis 29 

Protection from Bees 92 

Prunus serotina 50 

" Virginiana 50 

Puff-ball for Smoke 89 

Pumpkins 59 

Pupa 33 

Purchasing Bees 79 

Queen,Ageof 148 

" Cages 142 

" " toMake ....143 

" CellBox ..141 

" Cells 33 

** Depriving of 170 

44 Described... 23 

" How to Handle 147 

*' Loss of 151 

" Meeting the Drone 34 

•* More than One in a Hive. . . 152 

" NucleitoPorm 140 

" Nucleus System 137 

" Nursery 136-142 

" Time to Mature 34 

' ' TJnimpregnated, Lays Drone 

Eggs 35 

Queens, Clipping the Wings 147 

44 Destroyed 35 

44 Drone-Laying 149 

44 Fertilization in Confine- 
ment 131 

44 Good Stock Imported 129 

44 Introducing 144 

w HowtoRear 133 

« Spent 1« 



Queens, When to Rear 183 

Quinby, M., Memorial of 13 

' ' Hive for Wintering 243 

" TheNew 103 

41 with Roof .112 

" on Impregnation 36 

Quinby's Bellows Smoker. ... 90-91 

44 Hive Clasp .111 

44 Ne w Hi ve, Complete 109 

Raspberry, Red 50 

Rats and Mice 229 

Red Raspberry 50 

Remedies for Stings . 94 

Rendering Wax 201 

Robbing by Bees 212 

44 Indications of 214 

44 Remedies for 215 

Roof for Hive 113 

" 4 ' QuinbyHive 112 

Root, A. 1 21 

Rhus glabra 58 

Robinia Pseudacacia 50 

Rumex Acetosella 52 

Sage, White 61 

Salix alba, var. vitellina 49 

Season, Best for Honey 66 

Seasons, Hints for Exceptional.... 171 

" Notes for 260 

Section Boxes 120 

" " ToMake 121 

44 Frames 116 

Selecting Swarms 80 

Separators 122 

Silk-Weed 53 

Fatality of 53 

Sinapis nigra. 59 

Single Comb Boxes 120 

Skunk Cabbage 49 

Smoke, Materials for 89 

" to Control Bees 89 

Smoker, Quinby Bellows 90 

Smokers 90 

Solidago 60 

Sorrel 52 

Sources of Honey 48 

" of Pollen 49 

Spent Queens 150 

Spiders and Bees 231 

Spring. Work for 260 

Standard for Boxes 119 

Standing-Frames .105 

Stands for Hive 112 

" Hives 78 



INDEX. 



271 



Sting, Structure of 25 

" to Extract 94 

Stinging, Causes of 87 

Stings Avoided by Boldness ?3 

" Remedies for 94 

Sugar Maple 49 

Sumach 58 

Summer, Work for 262 

Swarming 34-152 

" Controlling 168 

" Indications of 155 

" Preparations for 156 

" Time of 154 

Swarms, After 162 

" " To Prevent 163 

" Dividing 166 

" How to Hive 158 

" How to Select 80 

" More than One 161 

** Returning 162 

" Separating 161 

" What Bees Compose 157 

Sweet-scented Clover 60 

Symplocarpus foetidus 49 

Syrups, Adulteration of 256 

Taraxacum Dens-leonis 50 

Teasel, Fuller's 57 

" Wild 57 

Thermometer 249 

Tilia Americana 55 

Toads and Bees 231 

Transferring Bees 125 

Board 126 

Sticks 126 

Transportation Beneficial 80 

•« of Honey 238 



Transporting Bees , 83 

Trichodes Apiarius 222 

Trifolium hybridum 51 

" repens 50 

Tulip-tree 55 

Uses of Honey .255 

Van Deusen's Clasp 184 

" Feeder 207 

Wagner on Fertilization 36 

Wagner, Samuel 20 

Wasps Injure Fruit 64 

Wax and Comb 190 

" Extractor, Jones' 203 

" " Swiss 20$ 

" How Produced 190 

" Making into Sheets 196 

" Moulding 203 

" Rendering 201 

White Clover 50 

" Sage 61 

" Weed 52 

" Wood 55 

Wild Cherry 50 

Willow, Golden 49 

Willows 49 

Winter, Preparing for 241 

" Workfor 263 

Wintering Bees 241 

" Out-of-Door 244 

" When to Begin 252 

Wire in Foundation 196 

Women, Bee-dress for 93 

Workers, Described 24 

Fertile 38 

" Life of 2( 

Wrens, Useful 231 



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